Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

edited May 2016 in Spurious Generalities
Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

Disclaimer:

The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

So why am I writing this?

• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.



Recommended Materials/Tools:
The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient airtight container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equal or better in quality.

• 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine)
(Can be Sudafed or any of the generics)
(Depending on the store and type, costs about $10 - $20)
• 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
(Get crystals not liquid)
(DON’T USE DRAINO FFS)
(Sold as drain cleaner)
• 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3 – AN)
(from instant cold packs)
(Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.)
(You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so)
!!!!! BIG HINT !!!!! (if you find it hard to find you can use AS((Ammonium sulphate)) just at a different ratio and that is (1.1 = 90 grams in this situation) and is easily bought as fertilizer)
• About 100ml of Dyethel Ether.
(WASHED Starter Fluid)
• About 200ml of Hexane.
(CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
(I used Naphtha for a while, but it is hard keeping it warm enough.)
(Google it. Or I can for you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=products+with+Hexane+in+it)
• isopropanol alcohol
• 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
(can get 3 bottles for $15)
(I highly recommend these they can withstand a fuck load of pressure, they normally be used to make soda)
• 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Batteries.
(Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through)
• A couple bottles of bottled water
• Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called . hydrochloric acid –HCl)
• Some Acetone
(most hardware stores stock it as paint thinner)
• A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters
(Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries)
(hardware store)
• A couple pairs of plyers
(One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the center out of the battery)
• A bunch of coffee filters
• A couple of cotton balls
• A blow-dryer
• A grocery bags to use as a trash bag
• A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I heard slide seals are great)
• 2 Eye Droppers
• Something to test PH
(Ph strips for a pool work wonders)
• A Mason Jar
• A sewing needle
• A plate to use as an evaporation plate
• A Plastic Funnel
• A blender
• 1/4 Cup measuring cup
• Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)
(I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia. IT . SMELLS REALLY BAD.)
• Honestly, use common sense, do not store your lithium in or around any water or go doing this outdoors in the rain that’s just stupid. You will catch fire, Please, safety first.

I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of things to get up front, but don’t get discouraged. It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $500 a gram where I’m from, so you will have about $750 to $1000 street value worth of product for each cook. This bee thinks that’s is a pretty good Return on Investment.

OK, Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPE” of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy. Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start. This process is EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing.

Basic Procedure Outline:
1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an Hour or 2.
2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars
3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full seal them up with the lid and place them both in the freezer
4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry.

5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily organized and accessible in the work area.
6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
7. Measure out 90 grams of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
8. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 60 grams or 90 grams of the AS put it into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid.
9. Pour your Hexane into a plastic baggie and seal, and Put it aside for the next step
12. Removing Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
Hints: (Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the inside of the battery as much as you can.
(You could always use a steak knife or something sharp to cut around the battery then just pull . apart)
c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
• Tightly hold the second end of the battery.
• Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through.
• While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery.
• Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing.
• Place the center directly into the Hexane in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible.
• Repeat this process with the second battery.
• Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it.

13. Add the Tupperware container of AN or AS to the RV using the funnel.
14. Add the Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel.
15. Add the Dyethel Ether to the RV using the funnel.
16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery insides:
• Open the Ziploc baggie containing the solvent and the battery insides.
• Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery insides while keeping them submerged the entire time
• Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the black and shiny silver strip)
• Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery insides into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
• Repeat the process for the 2nd roll of insides.
• Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV. (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
• Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV.
17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel.
18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV.
19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…
20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV.
21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure.
22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and remember where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook.

23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant pressure relief:
• These Sodastream bottles are really strong and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing (used for carbonation of liquids to make softdrink) , so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together.
• The first pressure release will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time.
• After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE.

24. When pressure reaches the threshold, release the pressure in the reaction vessel (soda stream bottle).
• Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressure escape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap.
• There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV… this is a Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting.
• You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want.

25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well.
• If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either releasing the pressure too early, too often, or both. No big deal, Just be observant and learn.

26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process.

27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
• The color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles.
28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap

29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding a little bit more lye and AN (or SA) to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong.
30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV.
31. Shake the hell out of the bottle for about 10 seconds.
32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes.
33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
• It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li.
• You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles.
• This color change will likely happen many times.
• Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…
34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45 seconds, your cook is complete.
• You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze.
• If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time.
35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure.
36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters.
37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
• Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
• As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
• As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
• Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar.
• Once the filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters.
• Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them.

38. Dump the contents of the reaction vessel into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.
39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.


Water Pull
• If you want to do gas Titration, please do it. Water pull is what I like.
•If you want to gas I will add it to the end of this write up.

40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel in the Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.
• Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head outta this world when you get ahold of some good Banger’s Dope.

41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack.
42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal.
43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel.
44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time.

45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute.
47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
• Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer

48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
• Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
• When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
(It’s very easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well)
(I want you all to do this part well so you can join me in the quest for waterpulling)

49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate.
(Pyrex dish if you like)
50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar.
• Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate.

51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate.
52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate.
53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile.
54. You can abuse as you wish at this point (But this is dirty dope, and I advise you clean it up)
• The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle.
• You can continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like,
(not necessary, but I would recommend it)


Acetone Wash

55. Allow meth to completely dry.
56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass
57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…

58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth

59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass


ReCrystalization

60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass

61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling

62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass

63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.

64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards

65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing

66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…

• You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.

…..That’s all folks…..
Next story: ensos one pot fire extinguisher METHod.
Followed by: RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way.

Edit : just some formatting
Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
/*
I know the . is not meant to be there
*/
Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

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Comments

  • DfgDfg Admin
    Most of it went over my head and I just skimmed it :( Thanks for this though. Keep it up!
    Disclaimer: I am writer and I love writing fucked up things, I am not responsible if those fucked up things are accurate or get used for illegal purposes. Please, do not bother me."

    IRC: https://rizon.net/chat #totse
  • Sure will
    Dfg wrote: »
    Most of it went over my head and I just skimmed it :( Thanks for this though. Keep it up!

    I will... plenty more to come.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • DfgDfg Admin
    enso wrote: »
    Sure will
    Dfg wrote: »
    Most of it went over my head and I just skimmed it :( Thanks for this though. Keep it up!

    I will... plenty more to come.

    YAY!
    Disclaimer: I am writer and I love writing fucked up things, I am not responsible if those fucked up things are accurate or get used for illegal purposes. Please, do not bother me."

    IRC: https://rizon.net/chat #totse
  • OK so if anyone has any questions fire away... I am around here quite a lot and don't mind answering any questions...
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Apologies if the thread is really old, for the life of me I cant find a date anywhere here that includes a little component I call "THE YEAR", always helpful in knowing exactly when something occurred as opposed to giving just "THE DAY" which could be this year, last year, 10 years or more ago. It does convey, however, an idea of the weather at the time of posting, so May 10 might be 1992, 2002 or whatever I do know it was likely warm outside, so there's that.
    Anywho, $500 a gram? where do you sell, the International Space Station? death row at San Quentin? You know what I mean, cuz availability dictates price. That's why it's funny rite. But 4real tho, u kno? 5 bens a gRAM? That's cray cray, but u aint' 4real tho, izzya? 5 hundie?
  • Yeah man in the land down under (Australia) you can sell this product quite easily for 500 Australian dollars for a gram.
    Yes this is a lot different to USA but a lot of people buy poondys (0.10) a point of a gram for 50 here,
    where as in America it would only be worth 10.

    this writeup is written as of this year (2016) if it was 2015 or earlier it would have the year above the post along with month and day (please correct me if I'm wrong).
    but yes I am 4real bruvver 5 hundie 5 hundred 500 doesn't matter how you say it.
    And this has gone down over the last couple of years from 100 a point 800 a gram at mates rates.
    And that is only from city Melbourne... The further you get from the city the higher the price gets...
    If I drive 2 hours from me I can sell a gram today for 800 but of course distribution of methamphetamine is illegal and I would not do it and I wouldn't want anyone here to do sell (distribute) either as it is illegal.

    If you have any more questions feel free to ask. I haven't been around as much the last week as I am on holiday on the coast.

    But I will try and jump on a bit more.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Great post enso, really thorough and easy to understand. 3 questions though:

    Is there a way to increase the sulfur impurities during the cook to increase the intial rush of i'ving? My favorite part about meth is the euphoria during the rush and thereafter, so any way to increase that would be amazing.

    Also, say I want to make a bigger batch, what ratio should I make the ingredients? Further, if I used 200 PSE pills, roughly how many grams of meth would that yield me?

    Lastly, what do you mean by "dirty" dope? That without the acetone wash it just looks unappealing or that it's unsafe to inject/injest? As you probably figured out, I only shoot up meth. So any benefits the acetone wash may have for smokers/eaters are lost on me
  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    Great post enso, really thorough and easy to understand. 3 questions though:

    Is there a way to increase the sulfur impurities during the cook to increase the intial rush of i'ving? My favorite part about meth is the euphoria during the rush and thereafter, so any way to increase that would be amazing.
    I would recommend not doing water (h20) wash after cook as this is what removes these impurity's.
    also I have always used sulphate of ammonia it seems to make the reaction abit stronger and may also help you in your quest to getting stronger shooting dope.
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Also, say I want to make a bigger batch, what ratio should I make the ingredients? Further, if I used 200 PSE pills, roughly how many grams of meth would that yield me?
    I am sorry but this question I cannot answer.
    you can make a bigger batch yes but you say if i used 200 PSE pills how many grams of finished reduced product would I get?
    one unfortunately I have no idea "what" pse pill you are using how many milligrams active? do you have to clean these so called pills first?
    two with this modified birch reduction ( shake and bake ) there are alot of factors in the yeild. did you hold pressure high enough? was it humid around? did any h2o get in the solvent prior to extraction?
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Lastly, what do you mean by "dirty" dope? That without the acetone wash it just looks unappealing or that it's unsafe to inject/injest? As you probably figured out, I only shoot up meth. So any benefits the acetone wash may have for smokers/eaters are lost on me

    what i mean by dirty dope is you probably dont want all these dangerous impurity's in your body for no reason if they do nothing and you can help it.
    as for this the acetone wash removes surface impurity's of your dope.
    do not worry about this removing any sulfur impurity's as it doesnt.
    that's what the h2o wash was for.

    I feel the need to say this site or myself does not condone the use or production of illegal drugs as they are illegal please use common sense. this is here just for education purposes.


    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Thank you enso I appreciate the response. As far as using sudafed for PSE wouldn't you have to give it a quick acetone rinse to get off the binders and coloring? At least I assume so. How would I go about washing them?

    Also wondering what you mean by "washed" starter fluid. Are you talking about seperating the Htane and the ether? Or do you buy it "washed"? If not please describe how you do so

    To clarify, I won't attempt to use your recipe for anything other than the pursuit of scientific knowledge. So pardon me if I ask any more questions on my path to fully understanding your method of methamphetamine synthesis. I think I'm gonna fully comprehend it in about 2 weeks once I've made all the preparations(to understand it).
  • also im looking for muriatic acid 20% and 80% water but I cant find it, what brand would you hypothetically use?
  • edited May 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Thank you enso I appreciate the response. As far as using sudafed for PSE wouldn't you have to give it a quick acetone rinse to get off the binders and coloring? At least I assume so. How would I go about washing them?

    Also wondering what you mean by "washed" starter fluid. Are you talking about seperating the Htane and the ether? Or do you buy it "washed"? If not please describe how you do so

    To clarify, I won't attempt to use your recipe for anything other than the pursuit of scientific knowledge. So pardon me if I ask any more questions on my path to fully understanding your method of methamphetamine synthesis. I think I'm gonna fully comprehend it in about 2 weeks once I've made all the preparations(to understand it).

    Are they the little reds? If so you don't need to clean them at all just grind them and chuck them in.
    you can use most tablets with PSE in them just depends what else is in these pills because some new brands \ kinds fuck up your reaction because of the other ingredients. In which case you have to remove said ingredients before starting.

    Let me know which is the case... If using the little reds then great your ready to go. If not I might have to help you learn to remove the shit. But it is all easy TO LEARN for education purposes.

    And what I mean by washed starter fluid is once you remove the ether from the can it still has quite a few impurities... Including but not limited to lubricant h2o ect.
    Best way to remove these impurity's is to do a water wash.

    Don't worry its simple.
    Put said ether from can into a plastic zip lock bag and shake like fuck for say 5 mins And peg it up on something to let it settle. You should clearly see 2 separate layers once settled pin a hole in the bottom corner and drain away your trash and pinch over once you get to your solvent layer. Repeat a couple of times and you will have the ether without all the other rubbish along with it.

    And feel free to ask as many questions as you want. Not only will it help you but I'm sure there are others thinking about asking the same.

    Be sure to let me know how you go In your quest of learning.
    Also I'm sure others would like to actually see some success in a story like this.
    Just remember to keep this as a educational story that anyone can learn from.

    Let's prove all these haters wrong and show them that when done correctly a modified birch reduction via lithium/ammiona can and will produce stuff as good or better than with any other tech and prove that if done properly is nowhere near as dangerous as some people \the media make it out to be.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    also im looking for muriatic acid 20% and 80% water but I cant find it, what brand would you hypothetically use?

    Oops missed this...
    You want to buy muriatic acid and dilute it down with dh2o.
    So if you had 100 ml you wanted all up that would be 80ml h20 20ml muriatic acid.
    Does that make a bit more sense?

    Most people I know would find this in the pool section at you local pool\hardware store.
    sorry not sure of brand names in your area.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Thanks that answers a couple of my questions. I hope this does help others who are lurking(which must be a lot considering the thread views). Personally I found this thread through google so I'm sure it will help a lot more people to come.

    What ingredients should I be wary of in PSE pills? I'm not trying to be spoonfed everything, but what brand of sudafed do you hypothetically use? Amazon link maybe?


    I think the bad press for shake/bake comes mostly from non-drug users being irrational and hyperbolic. Like they always exaggerate anything that has to do with drugs, because drugs r bad. They also realize shake/bake is very easy to pull off compared to a Birch Reduction or red phosphorus so they want to discourage everyone by saying "don't do it, you'll automatically blow your face off".

    As for shake/bake being less potent, I can't comment on that from personal experience, but I don't see why it would be. Like you said, the chemical part of the drug that gets you high is the same regardless; no matter how you arrive at that conclusion. The rest is just up to the reaction strength and any leftover impurities.

    Also you should add isopropanol alcohol to your ingredients list.

  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    Thanks that answers a couple of my questions. I hope this does help others who are lurking(which must be a lot considering the thread views). Personally I found this thread through google so I'm sure it will help a lot more people to come.

    What ingredients should I be wary of in PSE pills? I'm not trying to be spoonfed everything, but what brand of sudafed do you hypothetically use? Amazon link maybe?


    I think the bad press for shake/bake comes mostly from non-drug users being irrational and hyperbolic. Like they always exaggerate anything that has to do with drugs, because drugs r bad. They also realize shake/bake is very easy to pull off compared to a Birch Reduction or red phosphorus so they want to discourage everyone by saying "don't do it, you'll automatically blow your face off".

    As for shake/bake being less potent, I can't comment on that from personal experience, but I don't see why it would be. Like you said, the chemical part of the drug that gets you high is the same regardless; no matter how you arrive at that conclusion. The rest is just up to the reaction strength and any leftover impurities.

    Also you should add isopropanol alcohol to your ingredients list.

    Fexofenadine hydrochloride is one I found at least one brand (telfast decongestant) contains it and is very easy to remove and it jelly's up your rxn if you don't. Its simple to remove.
    the tablet is only 2 colors one side white.
    The other side brown.
    Chuck those suckers in a cup of water and watch that white side start to dissolve. Stir the tablet / water mix until all the white has desolved.
    What's left is the pse brown side you can crush up and use this as is but I would recommended continuing with some more things but give me a few hours. I have to go out.

    Yes sadly the haters like to use fear tactics for there own agenda.

    And I will man thanks for pointing that out
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • No problem.

    As for the PSE pills, I think just posting which particular brand of sudafed that you don't have to treat should suffice. I know you said the reds but that doesnt exactly tell me the type. Theres so many different kinds of sudafed, I'm afraid I'll get the wrong pill and think it's the right one. Like there's sudafed PE, Sudafed extra strength etc etc.
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    No problem.

    As for the PSE pills, I think just posting which particular brand of sudafed that you don't have to treat should suffice. I know you said the reds but that doesnt exactly tell me the type. Theres so many different kinds of sudafed, I'm afraid I'll get the wrong pill and think it's the right one. Like there's sudafed PE, Sudafed extra strength etc etc.

    http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Sudafed+Congestion
    check these out...
    These are the little reds I'm talking about...
    Should be top link.
    And don't bother getting the PE version as they contain no PSE at all...
    You can always look up the msds for any product and you will see what's in it.
    This goes for any product.
    Want to find out if the starter fluid you are buying has ether in it?
    Simple jump on Google and search eg "enso's starting fluid msds" and you will be able to find out if it does alot easier.
    Just for shits and giggles here is an msds for a random starter fluid I looked up: https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.uww.edu/riskmanagement/msds/data/prestone_super_starting_fluid_first_brands_corporation_1.24.91.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjk64Hg04XNAhXjJqYKHYdXC1IQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNH1ul0lQzqu-ptt7KfpIEcRd3hwog&sig2=QbQqZZ2eAxlTydHlFHBEUw

    If you have a look it does contain ether.
    but we will have to wash this brand as it has added mineral oils ect which we will want to remove before starting.
    I hope this helps.

    EDIT: fixed link
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • edited May 2016
    Thanks that helps greatly. I appreciate it. As for the start fluid, I already ordered prestone starter fluid yesterday, I think that has diethyl ether as the main ingredient. Also got pure hexane. Additionally your link for the starter fluid leads to "page not found" for me. Maybe an Aus thing?

    For now that answers all my questions. Until probably next week when the last of my hypothetical amazon goodies get to my hypothetical house. Thanks again.
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Thanks that helps greatly. I appreciate it. As for the start fluid, I already ordered prestone starter fluid yesterday, I think that has diethyl ether as the main ingredient. Also got pure hexane. Additionally your link for the starter fluid leads to "page not found" for me. Maybe an Aus thing?

    For now that answers all my questions. Until probably next week when the last of my hypothetical amazon goodies get to my hypothetical house. Thanks again.

    I looked up the link to prestone starter fluid msds have a look.

    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.uww.edu/riskmanagement/msds/data/prestone_super_starting_fluid_first_brands_corporation_1.24.91.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjk64Hg04XNAhXjJqYKHYdXC1IQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNH1ul0lQzqu-ptt7KfpIEcRd3hwog&sig2=QbQqZZ2eAxlTydHlFHBEUw

    Do you see what I mean?

    Not sure why the link didn't work. Can the device read PDF files?
    Edit: figured it out I inserted the link incorrectly.

    Ether way haha pun intended
    Congratulations man you are well on you way to being the next hypothetical Walter white.
    Its good that you found pure hexane.
    I would still recommend doing multiple water washes on your starter fuel though.
    You will see what I mean when you see how "murky" the trash water becomes after each wash...
    The rule of thumb here is to wash your starter fluid until trash water layer remains clear/clean after seperation.

    Good luck and keep us updated on your story. Kinda excited to hear the rest of your amazing hypothetical story start to pan out.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • I got the link that time. And good thing you posted it. I just realized prestone is an aerosol can. Fuck am I gonna have to spray all that shit out in a ziploc...? Me and my failure to accurately assess asinine products. Aliteration intended

    You think you're excited? I've been a hypothetical drug user for many years and this is the first time I'll ever be learning about my own drugs. I tell you these imaginary chemicals could not get here fast enough I am fucking stoked dude. Especially since I know the hypothetical meth I've done in the past was garbage with low purity. To be able to learn about meth synthesis, and also learn high purity, potent meth, it's like a dream come true.
  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    I got the link that time. And good thing you posted it. I just realized prestone is an aerosol can. Fuck am I gonna have to spray all that shit out in a ziploc...? Me and my failure to accurately assess asinine products. Aliteration intended
    Ok so I have heard of bees holding the can upside down spraying until all pressure is removed.
    Then slowly pushing a steak knife or something similar through the wall of the can and then pour this off into a container.
    As you say spraying contents into a bag would probably be bit safer so you could do that just becomes a pain after awhile... If you have a big enough zipbag you completely seal your tins in.

    you could seal it up and put something heavy on the lid...
    to Automatically empty it... Sounds better than getting sore fingers to me.
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    You think you're excited? I've been a hypothetical drug user for many years and this is the first time I'll ever be learning about my own drugs. I tell you these imaginary chemicals could not get here fast enough I am fucking stoked dude. Especially since I know the hypothetical meth I've done in the past was garbage with low purity. To be able to learn about meth synthesis, and also learn high purity, potent meth, it's like a dream come true.

    I'm stoked for you man. congratulations on taking the step to make it yourself...
    Can you really trust a dealer on the street anyway? That's what I used to find myself asking myself.
    Probably cut with some fucked up shit just to make a few extra dollars.
    At least when you do it yourself you know exactly what its cut with... SWEET FUCK ALL.

    keep dreaming brother and one day soon those dreams will become the hypothetical truth ;)
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Okay now I got all the imaginary chemicals so I just need the pvc pipe cutter, quart ziplock bags, coffee filters, and a Pyrex evaporation plate. All the expensive stuff is already bought though.

    More questions incoming:

    If I'm not mistaken, the most dangerous part of the experiment is the Lithium extraction, no? I've been watching videos on YouTube and apparently if it sparks that means it overheated and some type of bad reaction is imminent. When that happens what do I do? Toss it in the Hexane and wait until it cools down?

    Further, I'm supposed to chuck the Hexane into the RV after at some point? Is that just to keep the Lithium stable or does it help with the reaction?

    Also is it necessary to heat the Epsom salt? What exactly does that accomplish? When I use the Epsom salt as a filter does it also need to be heated Epsom salt?

    Lastly, does the reaction give off a very obvious smell? I live with my gf and would rather her not know my imaginary experiments. I was originally gonna do it in a cabin upstate but it might take too long for me to acquire so I'm thinking of changing venue. I would do it in the woods by my house but then I wouldn't be able to use the hair dryer.
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Okay now I got all the imaginary chemicals so I just need the pvc pipe cutter, quart ziplock bags, coffee filters, and a Pyrex evaporation plate. All the expensive stuff is already bought though.
    OK so you could always use a sharp knife to carefully cut through the wall of the battery instead of a PVC pipe cutter... This cutter just makes the life of a bee a lot easier.
    A Pyrex evaporation plate could really be any glass plate... I have heard of people using a microwave plate ( the glass one that spins)
    The others I cannot really help you with a substitute sorry.
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    More questions incoming:

    If I'm not mistaken, the most dangerous part of the experiment is the Lithium extraction, no? I've been watching videos on YouTube and apparently if it sparks that means it overheated and some type of bad reaction is imminent. When that happens what do I do? Toss it in the Hexane and wait until it cools down?
    Its commonly known as shorting out the battery. This is another reason for the pipecutter. The most common reason for shorting the battery is while trying to pry off the end you touch the positive to negative coursing a short out. While using the pipecutter this is virtually impossible if you do it from the center...
    If you short a battery throw that fucker out. Most of the lithium would have depleted anyway.
    As for the most dangerous part

    yes it could be dangerous but keep in mind if you don't keep an eye on your pressure and that rv explodes ((very hard) you would have to start the reaction and pretty much walk away for 20 mins) it could explode.
    So I guess if you don't use common sense then the rxn would be the most dangerous.

    After you peel your battery I highly recommend chucking the lithium strait into your hexane.
    As the longer you keep the lith exposed to air the more it "depletes"


    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Further, I'm supposed to chuck the Hexane into the RV after at some point? Is that just to keep the Lithium stable or does it help with the reaction?

    You would be using the hexane as a NP solvent in this reduction along side your ether.
    We are just using it to protect our lithium first. So when you put in your lithium you will be pouring in your hexane at the same time.
    Make sense?

    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Also is it necessary to heat the Epsom salt? What exactly does that accomplish? When I use the Epsom salt as a filter does it also need to be heated Epsom salt?
    You can do this before going into your rxn the purpose for this is when you dry the Epsom it removes all h2o ect
    So now it will try and suck h2o from the air or liquid it is in...
    This is how we make our acetone ect anhydrous (waterless) we don't want water in our acetone or final solvent as that will chew up our yield. Methamphetamine HCl loves water. I think its roughly 2 grams = 2ml.
    (Don't quote this number.)
    But you could probably correct me on this one?
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Lastly, does the reaction give off a very obvious smell? I live with my gf and would rather her not know my imaginary experiments. I was originally gonna do it in a cabin upstate but it might take too long for me to acquire so I'm thinking of changing venue. I would do it in the woods by my house but then I wouldn't be able to use the hair dryer.

    The reaction gives a strong odor of ammonia and this reduction can take awhile so it might be best to do it where your super model girlfriend will not just stumble upon you doing it...
    As for the hairdryer its not really that important when using the NP solvents you would be. Now if we were using naphtha (zippo lighter fluid) then heating is needed.
    But not essential in this case.
    I hope this answers all your questions.
    If not feel free to ask as many questions as you want.

    Hint: if one was to do this outdoors please don't do it when its raining remember lithium + water = fire
    Common sense people...
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • edited June 2016
    So I found this video on YouTube.



    Skip to 4 minutes in.

    Thought it could be interesting. As you can see this guy is only using a soft drink bottle... He should be using a soda stream ;)
    He also adds a cap of water which is dangerous in it's self.

    But at least this puts a picture in your head of what this story of this reaction would look like if someone was to do it... Bubbles abit aye?
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • The first quote was really just an update of my progress, wasn't really asking for substitutes but I appreciate your willingness to help.

    Wow that's actually pretty cool with the Epsom salt, I didn't know that. I actually heard washing the impurities out of s&b meth lowers the yield considerably, I guess this method solves that problem. Or at least some of it. Though, I'm sure losing some of the yield is inevitable being the reaction apparently gives you 50% worth of impurities.

    How did you get such a well wrought METHod? From trial & error or prior knowledge in chemistry? Or a little of both?

    Yeah I think I'll take a page from the video's playbook and prepare all the ingredients at my house and bring it to the outdoor trails closeby. I'm glad the hair dryer isn't necessary. I actually watched that video when I first started researching meth synthesis a couple weeks ago. Good thing I took a look at it again, helped clear up some things, thanks
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    The first quote was really just an update of my progress, wasn't really asking for substitutes but I appreciate your willingness to help.

    Wow that's actually pretty cool with the Epsom salt, I didn't know that. I actually heard washing the impurities out of s&b meth lowers the yield considerably, I guess this method solves that problem. Or at least some of it. Though, I'm sure losing some of the yield is inevitable being the reaction apparently gives you 50% worth of impurities.
    I would say that 50℅ is about the worst you could get...
    But yes the way you go about things also helps with your lose .
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    How did you get such a well wrought METHod? From trial & error or prior knowledge in chemistry? Or a little of both?

    A little of both ;)
    but for this story's sake let's just say I have never done this reaction or any other reductions which create any illegal substances ;).
    It also helps that I'm currently doing my masters in organic chemistry.
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Yeah I think I'll take a page from the video's playbook and prepare all the ingredients at my house and bring it to the outdoor trails closeby. I'm glad the hair dryer isn't necessary. I actually watched that video when I first started researching meth synthesis a couple weeks ago. Good thing I took a look at it again, helped clear up some things, thanks

    There is quite a few around I will link some more a bit later.

    You can weigh out measure all of your ingredients and put them in separate Tupperware containers or zip baggies. And have it all ready In a bag or something then go on your little adventure In the woods then when you get there you only have to whip it all out...

    You can also prepare your lithium in this fashion just keep your lithium In a baggie with your hexane with all the air squeezed out... Just be careful with that bag ...

    Also I forgot to ask are you using ammonium nitrate or sulphate in your story?
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • In my story, I'm using ammonium sulphate fertilizer. I ended up getting a 4lb bag because you said it would make the reaction stronger thereby making me higher, hypothetically. I don't know if that will actual contribute to the rush but it's worth a shot. Anything that will induce more euphoria is desirable. I've heard of a shark that was given a fat bag of cris for what little he paid but the euphoria was almost non existant. This happened a couple times and he was eventually told the dealers he got it from were all from the same cook. The shark stopped fucking with them, but was curious as to why he felt all the other symptoms of tweaking from that cris except very little euphoria, which to him is the most important part by far. Could you shed any light on why that may be? I'm sure it could have been a litany of things, or maybe it's something very specific. Anyway I don't want to make that mistake in my story.
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    In my story, I'm using ammonium sulphate fertilizer. I ended up getting a 4lb bag because you said it would make the reaction stronger thereby making me higher, hypothetically. I don't know if that will actual contribute to the rush but it's worth a shot. Anything that will induce more euphoria is desirable. I've heard of a shark that was given a fat bag of cris for what little he paid but the euphoria was almost non existant. This happened a couple times and he was eventually told the dealers he got it from were all from the same cook. The shark stopped fucking with them, but was curious as to why he felt all the other symptoms of tweaking from that cris except very little euphoria, which to him is the most important part by far. Could you shed any light on why that may be? I'm sure it could have been a litany of things, or maybe it's something very specific. Anyway I don't want to make that mistake in my story.

    It's good to hear... It will make the rxn stronger meaning quicker rxn pressure buildup ect... Better reaction= better final product

    It could be multible things and sadly we will never find out unless we have a chat with this so called cook... And he was honest...

    What method was used ect...

    Was it cut?
    More to the point what was it cut with?

    Was it shards or powder?

    Was it even reduced is another important question?

    Could have just been recrystallized PSE...
    Will still give you energy just none of the rest...

    You also have to think...

    Did they wash out the sulphur with a water wash?
    Is that why you weren't getting the rush you are used to?

    Could be he was being legit you unfortunately got mostly l-meth instead of d-meth could be an honest mistake. Depending on the method used...

    Could be a few factors and unfortunately I can't help much more than I have unless I got to see the product myself.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • So another video for you guys
    Start watching from 31 minutes in.



    So this person is using a Gatorade bottle... Should be also using a soda stream.

    She also peels the battery with her bare hands which you can see it start to deplete as she is tearing and rolling it and throwing it in...

    This lithium would have been getting hot in her hands...
    She is lucky her hands are dry and didn't course the lithium to catch fire.

    This video clearly shows the "copper" that everyone talks about when looking for finishing signs.

    This video also kinda asks your question about smell...

    You hear the guy complaining?
    "WTF IS THAT SMELL"
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Yeah I figured as much. Kind of hard if the product isn't right in front of you.

    That video was even better then the last. Much more comprehensive.

    So when I do the water pull part, I'm just gonna get powder like her? Not crystals? She did a water pull right? Not sure if they actually showed that part though.

    I thought after the water pull I would have crystals, that's why 2 parts later you're on to "re-crystallization" and not just "crystallization". Did I misunderstand something?
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Yeah I figured as much. Kind of hard if the product isn't right in front of you.

    That video was even better then the last. Much more comprehensive.

    So when I do the water pull part, I'm just gonna get powder like her? Not crystals? She did a water pull right? Not sure if they actually showed that part though.



    I thought after the water pull I would have crystals, that's why 2 parts later you're on to "re-crystallization" and not just "crystallization". Did I misunderstand something?

    So what actually happens is you get a really small crystal which you will have to rxtalize to get bigger more robust crystals
    It looks Iike a powder but in fact is just tiny little crystals.

    yes she does do a water pull but that is not in the video... Only the end part..

    But that's also how you would filter if you gassed... Just obviously it wouldn't be in a baggy... Unless you gassed the zip lock bag sealed and shook then I guess you could gas a bag... So I guess its kind hard to know but yes I think you are correct and she did do water titration.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Hey so I hypothetically tried it. Got all the ingredients in, and no reaction occured. I'm using 21-0-0 ammonium sulphate fertilizer if that makes a difference.

    No bubbles or anything. I was really pissed.

    I'm actually still hypothetically here with the bottle of lye, lithium strips, ethyl ether and ammonium sulphate

    The Hexane I got was falsely advertised. I thought it was one ounce but it wasn't even 100 ml. I still tried it with the Lithium strips which it was very hard to figure out which was the Lithium because there was like a transparentr strip a shiny metal strip and a blackish gray strip. I just threw in the strips that got hot in my hands.

    I'm out of hexane, can I do without it? This is the crucial hypothetical part, please help

  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    Hey so I hypothetically tried it. Got all the ingredients in, and no reaction occured. I'm using 21-0-0 ammonium sulphate fertilizer if that makes a difference.

    No bubbles or anything. I was really pissed.

    I'm actually still hypothetically here with the bottle of lye, lithium strips, ethyl ether and ammonium sulphate

    The Hexane I got was falsely advertised. I thought it was one ounce but it wasn't even 100 ml. I still tried it with the Lithium strips which it was very hard to figure out which was the Lithium because there was like a transparentr strip a shiny metal strip and a blackish gray strip. I just threw in the strips that got hot in my hands.

    I'm out of hexane, can I do without it? This is the crucial hypothetical part, please help

    Yes you can do this with just your ether...
    That is weird...
    Just do to some trouble shooting have you thrown in your li yet?

    You may need to add the tiniest bit of water... if not heating
    But is very rare...

    ...BUT FIRST...
    Did you shake the fuck out of the bottle after putting in you r ether lye and sa?

    I don't mean a little shake I mean shake for like two mins as hard as you can?
    What you want is the lye to start reacting with the sa.

    This is what creates heat and causes bubbles in you rxn vessel.

    This reaction is also what builds pressure in your vessel.

    You can also store your with in ether...
    You would just add extra ether in place for the hexane.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • Also the ether never seperated when I shook it, it stayed clear the entire 5-7 minutes that I shook it for
  • The water idea worked, an hour later after adding PSE the reactants are in like a big black ball and the fuel is a foggy white and won't change color at all. Is it done?
  • I just finished turning it into 7 PH can I hypothetically shoot up the water/meth or do I have to wait for it to evaporate?
  • Nevermind I'm bad at waiting. I hypothetically did the water/meth and it was decent. Not really astounding like I thought it would be. I thought it was a shitty product tbh, probably didn't react well. Maybe once the water evaporates it'll be more potent

    It's been 2 hours and I don't really see it evaporating. It's a clear liquid in a plate/bowl thingy. How long is it gonna take to evaporate? I tried with a hair dryer and it was just blowing the water around and not really evaporating.

    I was sure I got it to 7 PH, what do I do? Just wait?
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Nevermind I'm bad at waiting. I hypothetically did the water/meth and it was decent. Not really astounding like I thought it would be. I thought it was a shitty product tbh, probably didn't react well. Maybe once the water evaporates it'll be more potent

    It's been 2 hours and I don't really see it evaporating. It's a clear liquid in a plate/bowl thingy. How long is it gonna take to evaporate? I tried with a hair dryer and it was just blowing the water around and not really evaporating.

    I was sure I got it to 7 PH, what do I do? Just wait?

    Do you have a hair dryer? You could always chuck the Pyrex plate over some heat on stove you want to evaporate all the water...

    Next...
    was it like you had a really small dose?

    what you had was probably diluted a shit load with water and is probably the reason you didn't feel much...

    Evaporate that water and give that stuff a quick acetone wash and try again.

    I think you will get a fuck load more bang for your buck so to speak.

    If your going to do it over a stove do it on low and only do it for little amouny till it gets thick... You don't want to burn the product or break your plate.


    Did you end up doing a water wash in your story?

    Was there any lithium or copper lith left floating on top when you finished up?

    And sorry for taking so long I was at uni.

    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • I left it overnight and I don't see shit. It's still like this slightly thick water.

    All the Lithium disappeared in my story. I actually accidentally put one or 2 of the wrong strips of Lithium in there and they were the only ones left. The rest dissapeared. All I was left with was this foggy white liquid with all my reactants in a big black pile. I didn't use Epsom salt in the filter. And I didn't do the acetone wash.

    I'm gonna hypothetically try making another batch today
  • I didn't actually see the Lithium turn into copper it just dissapeared while I was shaking and driving. I tried swirling around the reactants looking for it but I didn't see it. Maybe it was the water? I still waited a half hour shaking it before I put in the PSE . Every time I burped it gas came out of the top. In the beginning, it was whistling like a train. Towards the end it was still building pressure

    Lol one time I burped the bottled and gas sprayed in my eyes and nose. I thought I was gonna die. And I had bought a mask but it was one of those shit white 3m ones from my job. I inhaled a lot of fucking chemicals yesterday lol
  • I tried evaporating it. Blow dryer was taking forever and didn't look like it was working.

    I put it on the stove. On the lowest setting. After a couple minutes it starting bubbling ever so slightly. What look like little tiny clear specs starting forming on the bottom under the water. I had to stop because I saw some of it start to turn brown so I thought it was burning. But it was a very very small part that was burning, like the size of a bead of lye.
  • It didn't look like it was working but it was bubbling
  • Also a bunch of hair and shit got in the bowl from the air how do I make sure that doesn't happen. I have a fan running in my room but it's not pointing anywhere near the bowl.

    Now there's a lot less water in the bowl but I still don't see any crystals
  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Also a bunch of hair and shit got in the bowl from the air how do I make sure that doesn't happen. I have a fan running in my room but it's not pointing anywhere near the bowl.

    Now there's a lot less water in the bowl but I still don't see any crystals

    You probably won't see anything until the water is almost gone...
    What you seen forming on the bottom when evaporating would have been product just when you moved the bowl around a bit it would redissolve?
    Keep doing the stove trick but for shorter periods and a bit less heat if available let it cool hit it again...
    Rule of thumb here is You don't want it to get to hot (hot enough to burn your product.)

    When there is hardly no water left and I mean hardly any then hit it with a fan or hairdryer...

    I'm picturing you sitting there with a bowl full of water and a hairdryer... That's going to take way to long...
    How long x wide is your dish? Is it a typical bowl or more like a tray?

    Remember water boils at 100°c and meth melts not burns at 170 so there is quite a bit of room for you to play around... Let the water start to boil then take it off... Let it boil take it off...
    I hope this makes sense.

    How did you manage to get gas in your face? Did you open i t close to your face? Or did the gas just come out rise and you could smell it?
    Sounds like you had enough pressure... That's for sure...

    Keep that kind of pressure up...
    When you hear whistling and you can physically see the gas coming out you know you have plenty of pressure.

    Only problem I could see arising is did those other strips effect the cook in anyway.

    And how long it the lithium was sitting there before you got the reaction going.

    You should still get good product. These are just things to remember for next time.

    And as for the hairs man... Pick those fuckers out.
    Or if you do the stove top thing you will get burnt hair in your stuff.
    But when you do get it all evaporated it will get thicker and thicker until it starts drying into a layer of crystals on the bottom of your plate.

    Once dry splash some cold acetone over the evaporation plate and let it dissolve those unneed nastys and syphon off the acetone.

    You can let this acetone evaporate and use this as cutter or for when you are really desperate.

    Then scrap that lovely crystal off the plate and you have your product.

    Now you can enjoy your product OR you can move onto a recrystallization to remove further impurity and have some pretty shards to play with

    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • OK so a little video on a recrystallization timelapse...
    Pretty...
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • It took about 2 days and some stove/blow dryer but it got almost dry. I hypothetically tried it. It was still in moist clumps but it was still relatively dry all things considered. I didn't feel much of a rush but it hit me pretty slowly. It was decent. I think I just didn't use enough of it. I ended up with about 2-3 hits of a product. It didnt really yield a lot so I didn't even both with the acetone rinse or the recrystallization. Defintely wasn't as good as I was expecting but considering it was my first time hypothetically making it I did alright

    Yeah when I was cooking and released the pressure the gas exploded in my face and burned my eyes and nose.

    I know I asked this before but now that I understand the process a bit more, what ingredient is responsible for making more crystals? The PSE, the ether or a combination? I don't want to end up for such a pittance my next cook

  • So I made another cook story. This time I used all of the correct lithium strips. There was a marked change in the heat of the bottle. It got extremely hot if I kept shaking it. This time the product ended in the RV looking like a dark greyish mixture. This time I was able to see the Lithium turn to copper but by the end it had disappeared again.

    I would suggest in the beginning when you start the reaction and add all the ingredients to add a cap full of bottled water. Both yesterday and today it was absolutely necessary to get the reaction going, shaking it vigorously for 5-10 mins did nothing at all. You should add that to your METHod after you add the Lithium strips.

    I have the meth/liquid in the evaporation bowl/plate (it's hard to describe what it is, basically it's a bowl with a plate part on the outer edge. Anyhow, I notice the mixture smells like gasoline. And there's some bubbles in the mixture, though it's still a clear liquid with a gooey texture to it. Is that good?
  • Also I accidently added too much hcl during the last part and the ph went down to like 4, but does it really matter since I shoot it hypothetically?
  • drdeepdick wrote: »
    So I made another cook story. This time I used all of the correct lithium strips. There was a marked change in the heat of the bottle. It got extremely hot if I kept shaking it. This time the product ended in the RV looking like a dark greyish mixture. This time I was able to see the Lithium turn to copper but by the end it had disappeared again.

    I would suggest in the beginning when you start the reaction and add all the ingredients to add a cap full of bottled water. Both yesterday and today it was absolutely necessary to get the reaction going, shaking it vigorously for 5-10 mins did nothing at all. You should add that to your METHod after you add the Lithium strips.

    I have the meth/liquid in the evaporation bowl/plate (it's hard to describe what it is, basically it's a bowl with a plate part on the outer edge. Anyhow, I notice the mixture smells like gasoline. And there's some bubbles in the mixture, though it's still a clear liquid with a gooey texture to it. Is that good?

    Ok so you will expect the lithium to dissapear and really you don't want any at all left floating.
    This dark greyish kinda looks like dark milk? This is the lithium particals in the solvent.

    You want this as this is what is reduceing you porduct.

    Sounds like you may have let some solvent through when putting the water on the evap plate shouldn't really matter just let it dry up and if you are really worried about it dissolve you meth in some distilled water and let evap again.

    And the crystals are made by the crystallization of the meth from the solvent.

    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • edited June 2016
    drdeepdick wrote: »
    Also I accidently added too much hcl during the last part and the ph went down to like 4, but does it really matter since I shoot it hypothetically?

    Yeah man that shit might burn you...
    If you didnt know the ph spectrum is 1 to 14
    1 being most acidic 7 being neutral 14 being most caustic .
    4 is definitely pretty acidic Add some lye shake test again until you get to 7.
    that could most likely be the reason behind the smell...
    If possible send me a picture of it in the bowl? Send me a pm and I will tell you how to do it safely.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • edited June 2016
    So this is the 50th post so let's keep this story rolling here so everyone can see.

    So I have pming helping a bee fix up a few mistakes in there story.

    They had a problem where they added to much HCl acid while titrating.

    Its ok it was only a bit low and had to add some lye to bring the pH back to 7.

    So let's say this bee took it a bit far and the pH hit about 9...
    Oops...
    Thats alright not a problem at all,
    the bee just added a few drops of HCl and we were finally at 7.

    The bee then evaporated the water and was left with some product which is said to be "a lot better than last time" and " I ended up tweaking like fuck all night after having some"

    There is a lesson learnt for everyone thinking of writing there own story,
    which is why I thought everyone needed to see this.

    If you go to far with the HCl don't stress just add abit of lye and retest.
    The trick is not to stress in said situation.
    Its ok its easily fixed.

    If this bee isn't happy about me posting this let me know via pm and I will remove it.
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

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