Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod story
Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod.
Disclaimer:
The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.
So why am I writing this?
• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…
• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.
Supplies/Materials
● 2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine
● 90 grams NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide or Lye)
● 60 grams NH4NO3 (Ammonium Nitrate Crystals)
or 90 grams Ammonium Sulphate
● 600 ml of non polar solvent
Hint: I know a bee that has found 400 ml hexane and 200 ml of Diethel Ether to work best.
● 1 Dry Chemical steel or stainless steel 1L Fire Extinguisher.
● 1 Lithium AA Battery.
● A few bottles of bottled water (h2o).
● Muriatic Acid also known as HCl (Hydrochloric Acid).
Hint: This will end up being mixed 20% HCl 80% h2o (water).
● Acetone.
● A small PVC pipe cutting tool (For easier removal of your lithium).
● A couple of coffee filters/filter papers.
● Paper towels.
● 2 Pairs of plyers.
● A Hairdryer/blowdryer.
● A couple 1 quart plastic baggies.
● A few rubbish bags.
● An eye dropper.
● 7 to 10 feet of 1/4 inch of rubber hose.
● A mason jar/glass jar.
● 2 five gallon buckets.
● A glass plate to use as a evaporation plate.
● A pair of scissors.
● A plastic funnel.
● A blender.
Hint: A blender is not needed, it is just used to crush pills quickly.
● Scales.
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE :
● A few shot glasses
● Epsom salt
● Isopropanol alcohol or Methanol
● Any little sealable glass jar ( Baby food jars work well )
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO GAS INSTEAD OF WATER TITRATE :
● Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
● Table salt (NaCl)
● 1 ordinary soft drink bottle w/lid
● 1/4" (6.35cm) diameter aquarium tubing
● Hand drill or utility knife
Procedure Outline:
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE:
1. Place a layer of epsom salt onto a oven tray and bake inn the oven at 200*c (400*f) for about an hour or two.
2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of dry salt into each of the little glass jars.
3. Add acetone to one glass jars and isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the other, both about 3/4 full, cap them and place them both in the freezer.
Fire Extinguisher Preperation
1. Take the fire extinguisher outside.
● Hold it upside down.
● Sqeeze the handle to release pressure in small presses untill the pressure guage reads "0 psi".
● Holding the extinguisher "right side up", spray the powder contents into a rubbish bag untill there is no longer any pressure to continue spraying.
● Unscrew the entire nozzle and gauge assembly from the fire extinguisher cylinder.
● Remove the long metal rod that is screwed into the fire extinguishers nozzle assembly and throw it away.
● Throw away the rest of the powder in the fire extinguishers cylinder into the rubbish bag.
● Tie up rubbish bag and put aside.
● Clean ALL of the powder out of the cylinder and nozzle assembly.
● Scrub the inside of the cylinder untill no more brown rusty residue can be seen when wiped with a paper towel.
Hint 1: A clothes hanger with paper towel wraped around it works well for this.
Hint 2: Cut a circle piece of steel screen about 1 inch in diameter, jam this into the brass fitting opening leading into the nozzle, this is to stop the reactants from going up into the nozzle.
WARNING: If you do not this properly the meth will come out impure and burn brown ect... YUCK!
● COMPLETELY AND I MEAN COMPLETELY dry the inside of the cylinder and nozzle assembly of any moisture.
Getting Started.
1. Prepare an area to work, clean the work area, and have all tools and materials easily accessible and organised.
2. Put your pse pills into the blender and crush to a fine powder (or crush however), and put them into an airtight container for later.
3. Measure out 90 grams of NaOH (lye) and put in an airtight container for later.
4. Measure out 60 grams of Ammonium Nitrate Crystals
or
90 grams of Ammonium Sulphate, and put it in the airtight container with your pse.
5. Wash your solvent(s)
● Put your 600-700ml of solvent into a plastic baggie.
● Add about 250ml of bottled water to the baggie.
● Shake the hell out of this mix for 3-4 minutes.
● Let the solvent and water layers seperate and settle.
● Using a pin or scissors peirce the bottom corner and drain away dirty water layer.
● Once all the water has drained away drain your solvent into a clean mason/glass jar.
6. Do this wash another time (step 5).
7. Pour about 200ml of the solvent into a clean plastic baggie, and set it aside for storage of your lithium when removed.
8. Fill one of the 5 gallon buckets 3/4 full of boiling hot water.
9. Fill the second 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full with crushed ice, and add water to make it colder.
11. Remove Lithium strip from AA battery.
● Put battery in small pipe cutting tool.
● Tighten screw until the blade is tight against the battery casing.
● Spin the battery a couple of spins.
● Tighten the screw a little more.
● Spin the battery again.
● Continue this untill you feel the blade break through the casing all the way around.
● While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart.
● Discard of the empty end of the battery and with the free plyer grab onto the guts of the battery, pull the guts out and quickly place it into the solvent you put aside earlier, and keep them as submerged as possible.
● Put your clean hands into the solvent and unroll the battery guts while keeping it submerged the entire time.
● Locate the strip of lithium (this will be dull gray looking strip, NOT the black and shiny silver strip)
● Remove the lithium strip while still its submerged in solvent and discard the rest of the guts into a rubbish bag and set aside.
● Now begin tearing the lithium while still submerged in your solvent, into small flat post stamp size pieces, and seal the bag.
Hint: You can also remove a small part of the strip to tear up out of the solvent to make it easier, just be sure to only keep the lithium out of the solvent for a limited time.
12. Add the 60 grams from the airtight container of Nitrate or the Sulphate you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
13. Add the 2.4 grams of PSE you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
14. Add the 400ml of solvent/solvent mix into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
15. Add the remaining 200ml of solvent, and the lithium pieces into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
16. Add the container of NaOH (lye) you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
Important Hint for step 17: Be ready to quickly screw the nozzle assembly to fire extinguisher cylinder immediately after adding water, and give the fire extinguisher a swirl to re-coat the lithium pieces with solvent.
17. Add 10ml to 15ml of water to the fire extinguisher.
● The lithium will react with water, and catch fire if left exposed to open air for to long.
● Coating lithium with solvent protects it from water and air.
18. Once the nozzle assembly is tightened securely, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for about 20 seconds.
19. Place the fire extinguisher in the bucket with the boiling hot water.
20. About 5 to 10 minutes later, remove the fire extinguisher from the bucket, shake the hell out of it for about 20 seconds, and put it back in your hot water bucket.
21. Repeat steps 19 and 20 until 30 minutes have passed from the start of the reaction (try to get the pressure up to about 150 to 200psi during the first 30 minutes)
22. Now, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for 20 seconds, and then place it in the bucket with ice (or ice shavings) for 5 to 10 minutes.
23. Repeat shaking and ice water bucket for a total o 30 minutes.
24. Attach 1 end of the rubber hose to the fire extinguisher nozzle and run the other end up and though the water trap in the toilet past the water.
25. Use the nozzle handle to vent the pressure from the fire extinguisher in short bursts until pressure reaches 0psi.
Hint: When you lower the pressure to 0 psi, the reaction between the AN (or AS) and NaOH (lye) will kick back up again.
26. Quickly, before pressure in the fire extinguisher builds again, unscrew the nozzle assembly from the cylinder.
27. Prepare the funnel with 1/2 a paper towel folded up stuffed tightly into the stem and 3 or 4 coffee filters in the funnel.
Hint: Instead of paper towel you can use cotton balls stuffed in the stem.
28. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the fire extinguisher into the glass jar/mason jar.
● Pour the reactants from the fire extinguisher into a plastic baggie, snip the corner off the baggie, and squeeze the juice out of the reactants into the jar with the rest of your solvent, then discard the baggie with reactants.
● Once the filters have no more solvent, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much solvent as possible then discard them.
● Remove the paper towel from the funnel, squeeze the solvent from it into the jar, and discard it.
Water Pull (Titration)
Things you need:
h2o (water)
hcl acid
ph strips
glass jar with your solvent/meff
1. Add about 50% of the amount of water to the solvent in the glass jar, put the lid on tight, and shake the hell out of it for about 5 minutes to wash the solvent and remove certain impuritys
2. Dump the water/solvent mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from a peg or pin it from the top corner of the bag
3. Allow the layers to seperate (solvent on top, dirty water on the bottom) cut a little hole in the bottom corner of the baggie with a sewing needle/pin and allow the waste water to drain into any container for throwing out later
4. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for a fresh glass jar and collect the fuel
5. Repeat step 1-4 one more times
Hint: do not do this step (water wash) if you are going to bang your meff as the sulfur impurities are what give you that initial rush when you get some good shooting meth (i dont use needles but i have done my research)
6. After the 2nd water wash, pour the solvent from the glass jar into a plastic baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
7. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of hcl acid to the solvent/water mix, shake it around for a minute or so.
8. Let the mix settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH.
hint: Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water below the solvent layer.
9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 until PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
hint: when you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop at a time and retest PH after each drop.
10. Let the layers separate, use a pin/needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water onto your evaporation plate.
hint: pyrex dishes work perfect.
11. Pinch a hole in the corner of the baggie when the water drained and then drain the fuel back into the glass jar.
hint: don’t let any fuel drain onto your plate
12. Repeat the process again on your solvent.
hint: this time it will only need 2-3 drops of hcl acid
13. use a blowdryer and if you want a hotplate or non gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a layer of meth and then just scrape your meth off the plate using a razor.
● The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns clean in a melt test.
● You can then do a recrystallization from there if you like, its not necessary, but will remove impurity and you will get "shards" not powder.
Acetone Wash
1. Allow meth to completely dry.
2. Crush meth crysals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass.
3. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass untill the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 to 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate.
4. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain off the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impuritys.
5. Scrap the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, razor, or whatever, then clean the shot glass.
ReCrystalization
1. Scape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add to a clean shot glass.
2. Use the clean eyedropper to transfer the non salt portion of the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) from the jar in the freezer into a glass jar that you can fit in a pot.
Hint: boil water and put it in a container place your jar in the boiling water until your isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) starts boiling.
SAFTEY WARNING: REMEMBER, NO FLAMES GUYS!
3. Once boiling use an clean eyedropper to slowly add the boiling isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the meth in the shotglass.
● Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
● Stir, the meth will dissolve, and anything that doesn't is impurity.
● Siphon the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix into a second shot glass carefully leaving behind solid impurity
4. Heat isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix the same way as before, just untill you just start to see the first signs of film developing on surface.
5. Stop heating and add a drop or two more of isopropanol alcohol (or methanol), and add a couple of drops of acetone, and allow to evaporate.
● If you put it in the freezer it takes about 6 hours, but produces small crystals.
● If you put it in the fridge it takes longer, but you get bigger and longer crystals.
● If you leave it at room temp it takes the longest amount of time, but you get the biggest and longest crystals.
Hint: The idea behind this is the longer it takes for the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to cool down the bigger and longer the crystals are, because they have longer to form (very simple explanation).
WARNING: Do not touch or move the jar while it is growing crystals.
6. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing.
7. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold acetone to remove surface impurities, and let dry completely one last time.
Up next: Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way. Enso’s Miniature story.
That's all folks
Edit: Just some formatting
Disclaimer:
The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.
So why am I writing this?
• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…
• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.
Supplies/Materials
● 2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine
● 90 grams NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide or Lye)
● 60 grams NH4NO3 (Ammonium Nitrate Crystals)
or 90 grams Ammonium Sulphate
● 600 ml of non polar solvent
Hint: I know a bee that has found 400 ml hexane and 200 ml of Diethel Ether to work best.
● 1 Dry Chemical steel or stainless steel 1L Fire Extinguisher.
● 1 Lithium AA Battery.
● A few bottles of bottled water (h2o).
● Muriatic Acid also known as HCl (Hydrochloric Acid).
Hint: This will end up being mixed 20% HCl 80% h2o (water).
● Acetone.
● A small PVC pipe cutting tool (For easier removal of your lithium).
● A couple of coffee filters/filter papers.
● Paper towels.
● 2 Pairs of plyers.
● A Hairdryer/blowdryer.
● A couple 1 quart plastic baggies.
● A few rubbish bags.
● An eye dropper.
● 7 to 10 feet of 1/4 inch of rubber hose.
● A mason jar/glass jar.
● 2 five gallon buckets.
● A glass plate to use as a evaporation plate.
● A pair of scissors.
● A plastic funnel.
● A blender.
Hint: A blender is not needed, it is just used to crush pills quickly.
● Scales.
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE :
● A few shot glasses
● Epsom salt
● Isopropanol alcohol or Methanol
● Any little sealable glass jar ( Baby food jars work well )
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO GAS INSTEAD OF WATER TITRATE :
● Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
● Table salt (NaCl)
● 1 ordinary soft drink bottle w/lid
● 1/4" (6.35cm) diameter aquarium tubing
● Hand drill or utility knife
Procedure Outline:
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE:
1. Place a layer of epsom salt onto a oven tray and bake inn the oven at 200*c (400*f) for about an hour or two.
2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of dry salt into each of the little glass jars.
3. Add acetone to one glass jars and isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the other, both about 3/4 full, cap them and place them both in the freezer.
Fire Extinguisher Preperation
1. Take the fire extinguisher outside.
● Hold it upside down.
● Sqeeze the handle to release pressure in small presses untill the pressure guage reads "0 psi".
● Holding the extinguisher "right side up", spray the powder contents into a rubbish bag untill there is no longer any pressure to continue spraying.
● Unscrew the entire nozzle and gauge assembly from the fire extinguisher cylinder.
● Remove the long metal rod that is screwed into the fire extinguishers nozzle assembly and throw it away.
● Throw away the rest of the powder in the fire extinguishers cylinder into the rubbish bag.
● Tie up rubbish bag and put aside.
● Clean ALL of the powder out of the cylinder and nozzle assembly.
● Scrub the inside of the cylinder untill no more brown rusty residue can be seen when wiped with a paper towel.
Hint 1: A clothes hanger with paper towel wraped around it works well for this.
Hint 2: Cut a circle piece of steel screen about 1 inch in diameter, jam this into the brass fitting opening leading into the nozzle, this is to stop the reactants from going up into the nozzle.
WARNING: If you do not this properly the meth will come out impure and burn brown ect... YUCK!
● COMPLETELY AND I MEAN COMPLETELY dry the inside of the cylinder and nozzle assembly of any moisture.
Getting Started.
1. Prepare an area to work, clean the work area, and have all tools and materials easily accessible and organised.
2. Put your pse pills into the blender and crush to a fine powder (or crush however), and put them into an airtight container for later.
3. Measure out 90 grams of NaOH (lye) and put in an airtight container for later.
4. Measure out 60 grams of Ammonium Nitrate Crystals
or
90 grams of Ammonium Sulphate, and put it in the airtight container with your pse.
5. Wash your solvent(s)
● Put your 600-700ml of solvent into a plastic baggie.
● Add about 250ml of bottled water to the baggie.
● Shake the hell out of this mix for 3-4 minutes.
● Let the solvent and water layers seperate and settle.
● Using a pin or scissors peirce the bottom corner and drain away dirty water layer.
● Once all the water has drained away drain your solvent into a clean mason/glass jar.
6. Do this wash another time (step 5).
7. Pour about 200ml of the solvent into a clean plastic baggie, and set it aside for storage of your lithium when removed.
8. Fill one of the 5 gallon buckets 3/4 full of boiling hot water.
9. Fill the second 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full with crushed ice, and add water to make it colder.
11. Remove Lithium strip from AA battery.
● Put battery in small pipe cutting tool.
● Tighten screw until the blade is tight against the battery casing.
● Spin the battery a couple of spins.
● Tighten the screw a little more.
● Spin the battery again.
● Continue this untill you feel the blade break through the casing all the way around.
● While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart.
● Discard of the empty end of the battery and with the free plyer grab onto the guts of the battery, pull the guts out and quickly place it into the solvent you put aside earlier, and keep them as submerged as possible.
● Put your clean hands into the solvent and unroll the battery guts while keeping it submerged the entire time.
● Locate the strip of lithium (this will be dull gray looking strip, NOT the black and shiny silver strip)
● Remove the lithium strip while still its submerged in solvent and discard the rest of the guts into a rubbish bag and set aside.
● Now begin tearing the lithium while still submerged in your solvent, into small flat post stamp size pieces, and seal the bag.
Hint: You can also remove a small part of the strip to tear up out of the solvent to make it easier, just be sure to only keep the lithium out of the solvent for a limited time.
12. Add the 60 grams from the airtight container of Nitrate or the Sulphate you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
13. Add the 2.4 grams of PSE you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
14. Add the 400ml of solvent/solvent mix into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
15. Add the remaining 200ml of solvent, and the lithium pieces into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
16. Add the container of NaOH (lye) you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.
Important Hint for step 17: Be ready to quickly screw the nozzle assembly to fire extinguisher cylinder immediately after adding water, and give the fire extinguisher a swirl to re-coat the lithium pieces with solvent.
17. Add 10ml to 15ml of water to the fire extinguisher.
● The lithium will react with water, and catch fire if left exposed to open air for to long.
● Coating lithium with solvent protects it from water and air.
18. Once the nozzle assembly is tightened securely, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for about 20 seconds.
19. Place the fire extinguisher in the bucket with the boiling hot water.
20. About 5 to 10 minutes later, remove the fire extinguisher from the bucket, shake the hell out of it for about 20 seconds, and put it back in your hot water bucket.
21. Repeat steps 19 and 20 until 30 minutes have passed from the start of the reaction (try to get the pressure up to about 150 to 200psi during the first 30 minutes)
22. Now, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for 20 seconds, and then place it in the bucket with ice (or ice shavings) for 5 to 10 minutes.
23. Repeat shaking and ice water bucket for a total o 30 minutes.
24. Attach 1 end of the rubber hose to the fire extinguisher nozzle and run the other end up and though the water trap in the toilet past the water.
25. Use the nozzle handle to vent the pressure from the fire extinguisher in short bursts until pressure reaches 0psi.
Hint: When you lower the pressure to 0 psi, the reaction between the AN (or AS) and NaOH (lye) will kick back up again.
26. Quickly, before pressure in the fire extinguisher builds again, unscrew the nozzle assembly from the cylinder.
27. Prepare the funnel with 1/2 a paper towel folded up stuffed tightly into the stem and 3 or 4 coffee filters in the funnel.
Hint: Instead of paper towel you can use cotton balls stuffed in the stem.
28. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the fire extinguisher into the glass jar/mason jar.
● Pour the reactants from the fire extinguisher into a plastic baggie, snip the corner off the baggie, and squeeze the juice out of the reactants into the jar with the rest of your solvent, then discard the baggie with reactants.
● Once the filters have no more solvent, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much solvent as possible then discard them.
● Remove the paper towel from the funnel, squeeze the solvent from it into the jar, and discard it.
Water Pull (Titration)
Things you need:
h2o (water)
hcl acid
ph strips
glass jar with your solvent/meff
1. Add about 50% of the amount of water to the solvent in the glass jar, put the lid on tight, and shake the hell out of it for about 5 minutes to wash the solvent and remove certain impuritys
2. Dump the water/solvent mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from a peg or pin it from the top corner of the bag
3. Allow the layers to seperate (solvent on top, dirty water on the bottom) cut a little hole in the bottom corner of the baggie with a sewing needle/pin and allow the waste water to drain into any container for throwing out later
4. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for a fresh glass jar and collect the fuel
5. Repeat step 1-4 one more times
Hint: do not do this step (water wash) if you are going to bang your meff as the sulfur impurities are what give you that initial rush when you get some good shooting meth (i dont use needles but i have done my research)
6. After the 2nd water wash, pour the solvent from the glass jar into a plastic baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
7. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of hcl acid to the solvent/water mix, shake it around for a minute or so.
8. Let the mix settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH.
hint: Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water below the solvent layer.
9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 until PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
hint: when you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop at a time and retest PH after each drop.
10. Let the layers separate, use a pin/needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water onto your evaporation plate.
hint: pyrex dishes work perfect.
11. Pinch a hole in the corner of the baggie when the water drained and then drain the fuel back into the glass jar.
hint: don’t let any fuel drain onto your plate
12. Repeat the process again on your solvent.
hint: this time it will only need 2-3 drops of hcl acid
13. use a blowdryer and if you want a hotplate or non gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a layer of meth and then just scrape your meth off the plate using a razor.
● The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns clean in a melt test.
● You can then do a recrystallization from there if you like, its not necessary, but will remove impurity and you will get "shards" not powder.
Acetone Wash
1. Allow meth to completely dry.
2. Crush meth crysals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass.
3. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass untill the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 to 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate.
4. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain off the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impuritys.
5. Scrap the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, razor, or whatever, then clean the shot glass.
ReCrystalization
1. Scape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add to a clean shot glass.
2. Use the clean eyedropper to transfer the non salt portion of the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) from the jar in the freezer into a glass jar that you can fit in a pot.
Hint: boil water and put it in a container place your jar in the boiling water until your isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) starts boiling.
SAFTEY WARNING: REMEMBER, NO FLAMES GUYS!
3. Once boiling use an clean eyedropper to slowly add the boiling isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the meth in the shotglass.
● Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
● Stir, the meth will dissolve, and anything that doesn't is impurity.
● Siphon the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix into a second shot glass carefully leaving behind solid impurity
4. Heat isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix the same way as before, just untill you just start to see the first signs of film developing on surface.
5. Stop heating and add a drop or two more of isopropanol alcohol (or methanol), and add a couple of drops of acetone, and allow to evaporate.
● If you put it in the freezer it takes about 6 hours, but produces small crystals.
● If you put it in the fridge it takes longer, but you get bigger and longer crystals.
● If you leave it at room temp it takes the longest amount of time, but you get the biggest and longest crystals.
Hint: The idea behind this is the longer it takes for the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to cool down the bigger and longer the crystals are, because they have longer to form (very simple explanation).
WARNING: Do not touch or move the jar while it is growing crystals.
6. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing.
7. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold acetone to remove surface impurities, and let dry completely one last time.
Up next: Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way. Enso’s Miniature story.
That's all folks
Edit: Just some formatting
Comments
Information provided here is for educational purposes only. We highly suggest you don't try anything without proper supervision and research.
I will also edit mine so that part is also in bold...
Thanks mate, got to keep this place running.
I have never dreamed of such a thing as SnB, though I've thought about the possibility once in a while. I will admit that I was a fan of AB rexstalization when I bought the local books, mostly because I felt it a way to clean up the final paper for IV use. So I know a couple of things I've picked up over the years.
Now I'm planning my own book and going to begin writing soon. Honestly I don't think I would even consider my own story if I hadn't found enso. So I've been reading and rereading his literature for quite some time now. In my mind's eye I don't want to rush anything, and I want to be entirely certain that I not only understand each step, but understand the why of each step. I think the main problem I've picked up from all the comments is that things were done with haste. With a total disregard for the why, the safety, and the reason everything is done and in what order.
Yup, a big thank you to enso and everyone else that participates here. In the next week or so I feel confident that I'll be ready to begin my novel. I have been planning, reading,and studying for a couple of months now. And like I said, I actually have some experience with many of these ingredients and associated processes. So the only advice I can pass on to anyone is that you should take the time to be certain that you're ready to become an author. Because poor planning might result in a cheap short story unworthy of print.
I'll keep you all posted on my progress. For now, back to my outline
I do have a year of basic chemistry and I do realize that by not measuring exactly that it could have posed a problem. I am thinking that there may have been some type of impurities int the AN. I used Dollar Store branded AN. I did get some fallout after gassing but have not filtered and recrystallized to check it yet. I am letting sit for a little while in the freezer prior to filtering to see if any more will come back. Looks like pretty dismal results.
The pressure on the FX gauge did not rise as I would have hoped. I am thinking that it may have been impurities or I pulled the wrong strip from the battery.
Any ideas as where I may have went wrong? I am hoping that the color and change will give someone with more chemistry background a clue.
I look forward to any feed back!
Thanks for the props man.
I give you props and I think you may prosper greatly from your stories with that attitude.
If you know exactly what is going on mid story you can make fine tune adjustments and everything should be fine and dandy.
Keep us updated on how your quest to becoming an author is going.
now a bit off subject...
This is also the kind of person I suggest eventually after a few stories moves onto writing about rp/i after fully understanding this process.
As you NEED to know what is happening when it's happening with rp/i or you could lose MASSIVE yield.
interested in what they teach in basic chem these days... Did basic chem before starting organic chem but that was years ago.
I have been studying organic chemistry for a few years now.
But back on subject XD
Were you sure to completely clean fex before starting?
Is it a really massive colour change?
It's a bit hard without actually seeing the colour.
Was the purple colour like this
I also suggest filtering strait away as any time sitting in solvent just gives the solvent time to pull in water and you would lose alot of your yield.
The loss could also be from your gas being to moist or solvent is "wet" what did you use to gas?
As for the fex gauge how high did the gauge actually go? Where you adding enough heat after cooling?
The cold is to help the lithium "melt quicker"
BUT it also slows pressure production.
(Some bees have been known to cool a over the top reaction to calm it down)
Heat helps with pressure production a whole lot more.
I also suggest getting a pair of scales for next time...
It's also alot harder to judge and report the yield at the end without them.
As for the lithium did you pull the shiny strip out or the other one?
But please remember the totseans group and I take no responsibility from anything or anyone following this story and committing a crime.
I wrote this as a story and that's how your meant to read it.
Mind you I have a freedom of speech and how I choose to use that is up to me and only me
The color purple that I imagined in my story was similar to the color at the the upper portion of the picture. It was a slight tint or hue. Not near as dark as towards the bottom of the picture in the previous story .
This was the color after gassing .
The stuff attached to the side appeared to be clear, but when piled had the green color also.
I pulled the gray strip from the battery.
The FX gauge rose to about mid green. I expected it to max out. I inserted it into boiling hot water at the start, did not like the pressure and put it into another pot of ~100 C water for the last 10 min of the heat cycle.
I scrubbed the FX and oven dried for 45 min at 100 C. From where you seem to be leading, I think I should have followed with an acetone rinse cleaned again and another rinse before drying. I had believed it to be clean.
I gassed with H2SO4 and NaCl.
My next story will include a more thorough cleaning followed by acetone x 2. A drier with MgSO4 for gassing. I would prefer titration but live 100 miles away from the nearest place to purchase litmus paper and prefer not to mail order. (The character may make the trip and titrate instead.)
I shall rewrite my story in a couple of weeks to allow my imagining all of the pertinent equipment needed for a proper story on experiments . I am planning on the character using food grade chemicals and proper scales in the upcoming story along with litmus paper.
I retained the fluid in the hopes that there may me a chance to recover some of the old story line. Should I start the story new or continue the story where the character had a left over liquid mixture from the previous chapter?
I am an older gent also, my chem classes were 25 yrs ago. Current studies are probably far more in depth than then. I may sign up for a refresher
I believe that with proper experimental procedures that the next chapter will have a happy ending I look forward to my ridicule
So if you still have the post rxn solvent, you could try and do a second pull of said solvent to see if you get anymore fallout.
As for the lithium you want the dull gray strip not the shiny one.
Now I think you have the right state of mind judgeing by your comments.
Ok so I think after seeing that picture that there may be some gaking agent gaking the solution when you gas.
This may be from the pills you used as I haven't seen this colour change... Well not as drastically as this anyway.
Was the colour change immediate as soon as you gassed?
Does the final product seem like a waxy or oily substance?
What kind of pills and what brand pills are you using?
unfortunately you may have to clean said pills.
Seems a bit far just to get ph strips.
Would suck if you had a pool.
Do you live in a rural area?
Normally most hardware stores carry these to test pools if not maybe visit your local pool or motel with pool and ask where they get theirs or if you could buy a box or bottle from them.
As you have a pool and need to check the ph to make sure it's safe as you have family coming over or something.
I suggest trying to water titrate as you have said as this may rule out some issues.
Have you filtered product that you had earlier? Has it still got a green tinge?
I suggest giving a quick dry acetone wash to.see if it removes much if anything or the product or even just the tinge.
If not you could try a recrystallization. To see if it cleans it up abit.
Unfortunately there is alot of things that may have caused this and sadly we can only try to rule things out to find a problem.
How much "fallout" was there roughly? As I said try and clean it up with some dry acetone see if there's and change.
If not give it a dual solvent
recrystallization.
If you are in a hurry you can use a fridge then freezer to speed up cooling but I suggest leaving it in room temperature to cool as the slower it cools the more pure /bigger the crystals will be.
Now as much as you want to you have to not touch the container until you are sure it has finished as any vibrations may break the crystal lattice.
If you don't get anything back after a acetone.wash and recrystallization then you didn't have methamphetamine anyway and something did successfully gaked your rxn and you had un reduced pseudo.
If you keep trying to improve then there is no reason why you can't have a bestseller.
And using the purest precursors only can help with your journey.
A good rule of thumb to remember is shit in shit out.
The more pure the precursors the better things should go.
I think I addressed everything so far.
Thank you very much for your response.
The fallout was maybe 1/2 gm. I tried a rinse and it did not do much and not worth trying a recrystallization.
From everything that you said, the only thing that could have corrupted my story was gack I am led to this because I did do an acetone rinse that did not do much and after the rinse I tried to melt some and tasted some. Did not burn properly and a mix of bitter and slightly salty taste. Bye the way, for anyone who may read this; in chemistry NEVER smell or taste of anything that you do not know what it is! To me that is showing unreacted or partially reacted pseudo. I could be wrong though. It may have a very slight waxy feel but very slight and the color change was immediate.
I used a 12 hr. time release that is a generic brand. I would suppose the brand is Sinus. That is by itself where a normal brand name would be. They are distributed by Perrigo. I will do more research on this but will definitely clean before using again.
We do have a Wal-Mart here and they have Ph paper in the pool, btl. water supply, garden, and fish area but the range is 5-8. They do not carry any that go from, 1-14. This is the same for the hardware stores and it is a very rural town. The two big stores are Wal-Mart and Tractor Supply! I could probably use the 5-8 for the crystallization process but wouldn't I need the 1-14 range to do an A/B on the pills? I know a little about organic chemistry, but just enough to screw something up. The research that I have done suggests that I would need to take them to at least a 12.5 during the A/B and I do not want to over base and ruin anything.
I am thinking that I could use the solvent that I saved in my next story during an A/B to clean the pseudo, Do you think that would be an improvement or ruin the story? In my thinking I could recover some without hurting anything..
If you have a better story than the ones that I have read, I would greatly appreciate hearing it. I love a good story teller.
I will have all of the proper writing instruments next week. It is always best to have the proper tools for the job no matter what the job is.
Thank you for your writing advice!
Pressure went so high that the character in my story was actually very nervous. Gauge was pegged out to max during the first 30 min on the FEx and never dropped back to the green during the ice bath. It stayed about half way between pegged and the green He thought he was going to break the handle trying to relieve the pressure at the end.
A lot of chocolate milk was lost when the character did get the pressure to start releasing and a lot of chocolate milk came out when decanting. Half the milk came out first, prob on top, then solvent, and then more milk.
He performed a titration, evaporated, recovered powder. Powder burned black and seemed to be unreacted pseudo.
Inactive: carnauba wax, colloidal silicon dioxide, dibasic calcium phosphate dihydrate, hypromellose,magnesium sterate, microcrystalline cellulose, polyethylene glycol, polysorbate 80, and titanium dioxide. These were a generic 120 mg time release. I am no organic chemist but I am thinking that it may be the polysorbate 80. Do you think that this may be the issue or may there be something else that I am missing?
Is there a way to clean all of this gunk out or should another source be looked at? Was this the prob or should the reaction have went longer by the indications of the milk?
What type of pseudo would you recommend using in my next story? The next story will be with a SS btl so that I may see what is actually taking place. It just seemed safer as the FEx was tested at 350 PSI.
Perhaps you should say YOU ARE NOT THE AUTHOR OF THIS MATERIAL.
It is simply a compilation of ideas from some actual bees you have blatantly plagiarized.
Any luck? I got a start on this myself yesterday and didn't stuff the fireX due to interuptions. Were you able to figure out the problems?
Enso
Would there bee any problems running this reaction a little longer?, With 5 min. shakes of course. My fire extinguisher has no gage - just a popup thingy. It is rated to 300lbs. but it is only about .5L capacity.... What do you think?
Going to try again tonight with name brand material in my story instead of using generic names. Hopefully my character will be able to put out the fire this time.
BE SURE TO FOLLOW ALL STEPS AND HINTS!
In my stories the character did not put a screen in the nozzle because he thought that losing a little product when he depressed the lever to relieve the pressure would not be too bad. Everything was going fine and looked good. He had everything set up for his experiment. He put his ingredients into his fire extinguisher and gave it a real good shake, the needle valve in the handle that holds the pressure in came out and fell into the bottom of the fx! Needless to say that instead of putting out a fire, he started one! Luckily he lives in the middle of nowhere and out the back door everything went. He has about a 3 foot circle of grass that is black and will not be growing for a while. If he lived in the city he would have a hard time explaining a flaming fx in the middle of the yard! The ingredients that are used are not easy to put out and most flammable metals require a class D fx to put them out and they are not cheap.
Enso wrote this so that everyone would remain safe so follow instruction exactly and do not leave any part out even if you think it is a minor detail.
Holy Shit. Thanks for your input. Glad you lived to write again. What type of screen is proper ?
My new username is
Showtime1234
I was and still probley retested to the tootsie community
All the way back or should I say from the beginning .Wow I wounder if the Dudley do rite boys
Have
All those IP
Addresses and users names but back on task I dnt spell so good and sure as hell could care
Less
Bout capital
Letters or
Even if I put a question mark after that last question ??? O well there is one thing for sure I've been dreaming about fex tsk for
Last 10 years and it's The only way to go I've dreamed of trying as many tek as I've been able to get good info
On I've used bad tek and blown myself
And my
Home
Up
Got burnt been choked out
Blinded temporarily
Thank goodness (GOD) But on another note I've been spun up spun out my personal
FAV man 48hrs in no sleep,rest,or even the desire to take a nap
I love going fast and furious
If I can help
Any u guys out wth any info on my experiences dreams only acourse fell free to ask !o yea forreal no question is stupid if your serious about this kinda dreaming
I'm still here and learning. Thanks for the feedback enso.
So I'm much more confident than I was a month and a half ago. Mostly because I have worked very hard to learn everything I can. Plus, during this time I have sourced everything, taking my time with the ever present thought of not raising any red flags. Yes the investment is a little steep in the beginning. I already have about $300 or so in equipment and materials. But I'm not worried about it because I think it's worth it to have a high quality end product. Plus I am a bit of a perfectionist, so I have waited patiently for payday to come every couple of weeks to add another element to my story.
So my book may be going to print in the next few days. I'm going to try and document what I can so that I can contribute here to the collective. I'll keep you posted.
Oh, and lastly, one of my questions was if it's safe to use a half liter SS, because I accidentally ordered a double pack and they can't be returned. Several people have already said it's okay, so I think I'm ready to give it a whirl.
I'm stoked. I think this is going to be epic.
Just curious, please tell me this method is just bunk:
https://totseans.com/totse/en/drugs/speedy_drugs/166004.html
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you life takes over...
This for sure is a taking problem me myself have never seen that colour before in any story
Fuck man you were using time release tabs without any cleaning?
Big red flag there.
(I am currently waiting for my pill cleaning thread to be approved)
Losing your solvent would have been the problem with losing so much yield also what sort of post rxn cleaning did you do?
Did you do multiple water washes or just one?
Did you perform any dry acetone washes?
READ THIS
How about you shut the fuck up you fuckwit!!!
I am sick of this shit....
You fuck heads open your fucking mouth without knowing shit and wonder why bad shit happens to you and "you don't deserve what happens".
Well don't open your fucking mouth or next time I will skull fuck it!!!
Yes I may not be lith BUT he is actually a relation of mine and I have known him his whole life.
I was talking about his old thread at totse 2 and suggested he opened one here his reply was
" fuck off cunt I don't have time for that shit... Why don't you do it"
I then said I would use some of his old OP and change a majority of it.
I ended up using his disclaimer and introduction.
The whole rxn is written by me and I was the one that originally wrote this Fire extinguisher MEtHod and I don't think he ever shared this (if he did I should have got props but I don't give a fuck).
so get your thread and information correct before opening your mouth.
I was actually the one that ran him through his first run.
If you actually wrote this comment in the snb thread then you would have still been shutdown.
• I didn't use any of his rxn at all.
• Even if I did he didn't want recognision either way, I told him I would for the part I used and his reply was " are you fucking gay? I hate that crap".
I always post references for my posts/material where needed.
Now fuck off you little maggot and don't come back until you get your facts strait.
I couldn't see a problem with 5 mins over a bee I know once had an active fex Rolling around in his boot while he was driving and he went inside and went to bed completely forgetting about the fex till the morning when he looked out the window expecting an atleast burnt out car.
The fex was still safely sitting in his boot he realised pressure and continued and he says every thing went normal.
Mind you I wouldn't recommend doing this,
just using it as an example about how beast these fire extinguishers are.
Should be fine
Some bees perfer the 500ml for this size reaction.
You wanna look at the test pressure most fex no matter the size they tend to have the same pressure rating.
(Which is around 3002.281psi((this is a fuckload more than you will ever need in this rxn(((if you could even get close to that kind of pressure)))
Look here!
(Link for a PDF file of the fex instructions)
How did you go with your story
Thank you for adding this.
If I don't think you need it I will say optional otherwise there is reason why it's written because it's needed for a reason I don't just add it for no reason.
It sounds like you kinda fucked up in your story your lucky you didn't hurt yourself or burn down any property.
If you are worried about fire,
I recommend keeping a bag of Kitty litter around as this can be used to dump on chemical fires to smother them.
You could also keep another class b fex around to easily extinguish any flames.
Mind you if you follow my directions in your story to the tee, you pay attention and of course use common sense (leaving none coated lithium in the air to long could cause fire... No flames around flammable solvents... ect) you should never have the problem.
Have you used vice grips attached to the top under the handle? (Be careful of the gauge) and spinning the top anticlockwise?
If that doesn't work I suggest if you have a vice to get 2 sheets of rubber (or something to stop the fex from slipping) ((You may not need this depending on the vice plate)) put them in the vice with the bottom of the fex in the middle, Close and tighten the vice.
With the vice grips attach to the top of the fire extinguisher under the handle.
(Mind the gauge).
Now turn the grips around anticlockwise.
If you don't have a vice you may be able to hold it down on something rough like concrete with your foot and use vice grips like before.
If you are still unable to remove said top I'm sorry but I don't know how I could help you further...
Is it rusted or something?
Ok wrong thread but I will still answer you drill a hole in the lid slightly smaller than the Tee valve you have. ( You want one with a handle so when you want to release pressure you just spin the valve.
like this
Tape the thread with Teflon tape and Screw it in (you can now add hot glue under the lid around the thread to help strengthen)
Put some stainless steal mesh on the bottom of the valve.
(This is to stop reactants from going out the hole when "burping".
Now put the gauge on one of the outlets. The other side/outlet should be free.
(This is to release pressure without removing lid.)
You can attach a plastic/rubber hose to this to release pressure via the chemical bath/toilet trap.
Yes it has been proven to work... If you follow my last comment you can easily do this to.
I used to have an automatic pressure release valve on a ss bottle with a slightly different design this way you release at the perfect pressure everytime.
You didn't finish your post.
That element wouldn't be lithium would it
He is my cousin read the above comment for information.
As for pressures and temputers.
(Im guessing you mean temperatures?)
Some basics on pressure in this rxn:
• With this reduction once the pressure starts getting much over 100 psi it starts slowing as the reaction struggles under the pressure.
• You want the pressure to be as high as possible throughout.
Mind you under the conditions of this reaction the pressure in psi won't go that much higher than 100-200 you would be very lucky to make it to 300psi because the rxn begins to struggle.
(We need more surface contact... Shake the fuck out of that thing)
Tested pressure on these fire extinguishers is around 3002psi or 20.7mpa!
Not going to get anywhere near that with this rxn thats for sure.
(Always check the tested pressure or pressure rating of the brand of fex you use the one I use for storys may have a different rating I'm not sure.)
I was using a clear fex like this.
As for temperatures, what exactly do you want to know?
Some basics:
• Cooling should be applied when in the lithium "bronzing" phase and is used to help
- The lithium with "bronzing"
- Calms the reaction.
• Heating should be applied once lithium is significantly "bronzed" and is used to help
- build pressure quicker and higher.
-it also helps the reduction phase of the PSE and just provide a stronger overall reaction.
Its a little more complicated than that... You have to figure it out by molecular weights not as simple as just doubling up
So I went out to sunshine last night around 3am.
(About an hour from me)
Found a 1ltr fex rxn sitting in a carpark being the author of this story I had to open it to check out if someone bailed on it or not.
Mind you it was empty but when i opened that bitch up both me and another bee both confirmed by the smell thats what it was used for.
I guess this method is more wide spread than i thought.
This "News" make me paranoid when cooking with this method
https://www.clickorlando.com/news/volusia-deputies-baby-2-others-injured-in-suspected-meth-lab-explosion
Ok i for one have seen multiple hundred reductions in a fex reaction vessel and have NEVER seen one explode like this.
Is it even a "meth lab"? they say multiple times that it is "suspected".
its weird that after this thread starts to become popular, up pops a lab explosion involving said new tech involving a kid (gathers more negative attention)
also there is no pre story...
but for the sake of trusting the media lets ask a few questions to ourselves?
- What are all those soda bottles with reactants in the bottom they are cleaning up?
- Did they even use the correct chemical in the "suspected cook"
- In what condition was that fire extinguisher in?
was it all rusted and corroded on the inside before the first cook?
how old was it? was it sitting outside for years? was it a crappy built cheapo $2 fex? we do not know...
- Was the wall structurally sound? does it have any knocks or dents that may lower the strength it that area? we don't know... (if it had a nice dent it could be no stronger than a ss or even a pop bottle)
- On top of that how many "cooks" did they do in that thing?
this is all common sense.
sadly common sense is not so common these days...
who the fuck would cook with their baby next to them? those fumes are not good for an adult for fuck sake...
these people obviously had no common sense.
As mentioned before structurally sound fire extinguisher in good condition can hold well over the pressure than this reaction can create.
(If i remember correctly these things can hold 3000+ psi).(don't be cheap)
Now this has you asking how the fuck did that thing explode? WE DO NOT KNOW!
Stainless steel fire extinguishers are pretty much a small version of what chemists use in industrial sized pressure reactions
p.s. Also see previous answers...
HI, EVERYONE.
I AM NEW HERE.....
I GOT A COUPLE QUESTIONS , I HOPE YOU COULD HELP ME WITH.
FIRSTLY,THIS IS MY FIRST TIME. MAYBE SOME SILLY QUESTIONS. HAHA
SCENARIO: MY TABLETS CONTAINS: PARACETAMOL 500MG, PHO 6MG AND PSE HCI 30 MG EACH TABLET.
Q1: DO I NEED TO WASH THEM BEFORE USE??
Q2: LET SAY IF I COOKING A DOUBLE AMOUNT OF YOUR SCENARIO, CAN I JUST TIMES 2 ALL YOUR AMOUNT OF INGREDIENTS ? AND USE 1L SS BOTTLE INSTEAD 500ML?
Q3: CAN I USE XYKENE OR TOLUENE INSTEAD OF HEXANE AS NP SOLVENT? ALSO, DOES IT NEEDS TO BE WASH?
Q4: Lye…why not Drano? because of not pure enough?
Q5: Filtering (after securing lithium).
YOU SAYS FILTERING…USING THE SAME FILTER?
Q6: GASSING SOLUTION
DO YOU PUT HOSE BELOW THE SURFACE TO GAS OR ON TOP??
SORRY FOR A LOT QUESTIONS
THANKS
This has nothing to do with this thread and has already been answered at least once! I am guessing you meant xylene?
If so is it a non polar solvent? if so then yes... but why not just use what is stated for fuck sake? its not hard.
Because IT SAYS SO... honestly people like you annoy me and probably shouldn't be doing this... its like if you are making food and the recipe says not to use egg... do you question why you shouldn't use the egg??? no
there is a reason so why ask?
i say not to use draino... DON'T use it...
1. It is low quality.
2. it has traces of aluminium flakes ect in it.
3. BECAUSE I FUCKING SAID SO!
What?... I think you should read your comment again and make sure you reply in the correct thread!
Where does it say anything about gassing on this thread?
read read and read again before asking questions and this question would not have been there.
it explains completely how to do it in the other thread!
Seems like I am now having to spoon feed people. (not why i started these threads)
read read read some more before asking questions and you will answer most of your own questions!
read through every page on the subject here... there is alot of information in the comments here...
BUT it seems as if you didnt even read OP before posting... we are not here to spoon feed you we are here to help!
Why use all caps? tbh i was going to ignore this comment for this reason...
I have edited you comment in my quote so its easier to read.
It doesn't take long to check your post is correct before posting.
Also please make sure you COMPLETELY read OP and ALL following comments before posting asking stupid questions that have already been answered. otherwise this whole thing is a waste of time!!!
Do not use an aluminium rxn ftw.
Aluminium is quite a weak metal... We do not want to use it for a pressure reduction...
Also you should get only half back if something goes wrong... The yield is mostly determined by the chemist skill and attention paid.
As you have probably realized changing the ratio isn't as simple as doubling ect.
you have to do your calculations by calculating the molecular weight of desired chemicals,
I am unaware if there is software for this.... (I generally do this on paper.)
Thanks for coming around...
We need some more active commentators around here
As for skype/any-video calls for security reasons i keep these to select few people of which i select after talking to for awhile... Trust is a massive thing in this area of writing.
It will be safe into reaction? i need your opinion about measuring things etc. Thank you
It will be fine and just use the amount listed in the story.
I also suggest you grind or crush the ammonium nitrate before chucking it in.
Also while looking for NaOH look for lye that is good for making soap... generally around 99% NaOH.
P.S I only edited the quote to make your comment to make it neater and easier to understand.
It's by site as I didn't have scale then USE 40 ml that's MILLILITERS AMMONIUM NITRATE AND 60-80 ml lye , 3/4 bottle full of your np look guys ether isn't all that, it partly mixes w water anyways. IMHO the heptane that they cut the ether with is probably the best part of the starter fluid.. That's too bad about the qd... If u use those amounts of an to lye and it's below 50f, u won't ever half to burp it. But one strip, and it gets so pressurized u might get to see the lovely blue color of a true birch. Anyways, beautiful crystals of an.. Make some fireworks too. If u need help there I have a shit load of recipes..
As for the pressure washer, holy shit, 2000 psi? You'd have a true birch! All you need to do is put you ammonium nitrate and lye in there, nothing else, let the pressure build to its max, it won't get too high because the gas will go to liquid. Just spray out the anhydrous ammonia in a beaker, add some powdered sudafed, and start putting small amounts of lithium in, stirring stirring the whole time, each time it goes royal blue , then turns clear again, add more lithium until it won't get clear anymore. I'm talking like a tenth of a strip for a three gram cook. I'm dead ass serious, that's all it takes! Follow my instruction on. Another take on snb. We got you covered