Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod story

edited May 2016 in Spurious Generalities
Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod.

Disclaimer:

The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

So why am I writing this?

• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.

Supplies/Materials

● 2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine
● 90 grams NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide or Lye)
● 60 grams NH4NO3 (Ammonium Nitrate Crystals)
or 90 grams Ammonium Sulphate
● 600 ml of non polar solvent
Hint: I know a bee that has found 400 ml hexane and 200 ml of Diethel Ether to work best.
● 1 Dry Chemical steel or stainless steel 1L Fire Extinguisher.
● 1 Lithium AA Battery.
● A few bottles of bottled water (h2o).
● Muriatic Acid also known as HCl (Hydrochloric Acid).
Hint: This will end up being mixed 20% HCl 80% h2o (water).
● Acetone.
● A small PVC pipe cutting tool (For easier removal of your lithium).
● A couple of coffee filters/filter papers.
● Paper towels.
● 2 Pairs of plyers.
● A Hairdryer/blowdryer.
● A couple 1 quart plastic baggies.
● A few rubbish bags.
● An eye dropper.
● 7 to 10 feet of 1/4 inch of rubber hose.
● A mason jar/glass jar.
● 2 five gallon buckets.
● A glass plate to use as a evaporation plate.
● A pair of scissors.
● A plastic funnel.
● A blender.
Hint: A blender is not needed, it is just used to crush pills quickly.
● Scales.
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE :
● A few shot glasses
● Epsom salt
● Isopropanol alcohol or Methanol
● Any little sealable glass jar ( Baby food jars work well )
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO GAS INSTEAD OF WATER TITRATE :
● Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
● Table salt (NaCl)
● 1 ordinary soft drink bottle w/lid
● 1/4" (6.35cm) diameter aquarium tubing
● Hand drill or utility knife








Procedure Outline:


OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE:
1. Place a layer of epsom salt onto a oven tray and bake inn the oven at 200*c (400*f) for about an hour or two.

2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of dry salt into each of the little glass jars.

3. Add acetone to one glass jars and isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the other, both about 3/4 full, cap them and place them both in the freezer.

Fire Extinguisher Preperation

1. Take the fire extinguisher outside.
● Hold it upside down.
● Sqeeze the handle to release pressure in small presses untill the pressure guage reads "0 psi".
● Holding the extinguisher "right side up", spray the powder contents into a rubbish bag untill there is no longer any pressure to continue spraying.
● Unscrew the entire nozzle and gauge assembly from the fire extinguisher cylinder.
● Remove the long metal rod that is screwed into the fire extinguishers nozzle assembly and throw it away.
● Throw away the rest of the powder in the fire extinguishers cylinder into the rubbish bag.
● Tie up rubbish bag and put aside.
● Clean ALL of the powder out of the cylinder and nozzle assembly.
● Scrub the inside of the cylinder untill no more brown rusty residue can be seen when wiped with a paper towel.

Hint 1: A clothes hanger with paper towel wraped around it works well for this.

Hint 2: Cut a circle piece of steel screen about 1 inch in diameter, jam this into the brass fitting opening leading into the nozzle, this is to stop the reactants from going up into the nozzle.

WARNING: If you do not this properly the meth will come out impure and burn brown ect... YUCK!
● COMPLETELY AND I MEAN COMPLETELY dry the inside of the cylinder and nozzle assembly of any moisture.

Getting Started.

1. Prepare an area to work, clean the work area, and have all tools and materials easily accessible and organised.

2. Put your pse pills into the blender and crush to a fine powder (or crush however), and put them into an airtight container for later.

3. Measure out 90 grams of NaOH (lye) and put in an airtight container for later.

4. Measure out 60 grams of Ammonium Nitrate Crystals
or
90 grams of Ammonium Sulphate, and put it in the airtight container with your pse.

5. Wash your solvent(s)
● Put your 600-700ml of solvent into a plastic baggie.
● Add about 250ml of bottled water to the baggie.
● Shake the hell out of this mix for 3-4 minutes.
● Let the solvent and water layers seperate and settle.
● Using a pin or scissors peirce the bottom corner and drain away dirty water layer.
● Once all the water has drained away drain your solvent into a clean mason/glass jar.

6. Do this wash another time (step 5).

7. Pour about 200ml of the solvent into a clean plastic baggie, and set it aside for storage of your lithium when removed.

8. Fill one of the 5 gallon buckets 3/4 full of boiling hot water.

9. Fill the second 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full with crushed ice, and add water to make it colder.

11. Remove Lithium strip from AA battery.
● Put battery in small pipe cutting tool.
● Tighten screw until the blade is tight against the battery casing.
● Spin the battery a couple of spins.
● Tighten the screw a little more.
● Spin the battery again.
● Continue this untill you feel the blade break through the casing all the way around.
● While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart.
● Discard of the empty end of the battery and with the free plyer grab onto the guts of the battery, pull the guts out and quickly place it into the solvent you put aside earlier, and keep them as submerged as possible.
● Put your clean hands into the solvent and unroll the battery guts while keeping it submerged the entire time.
● Locate the strip of lithium (this will be dull gray looking strip, NOT the black and shiny silver strip)
● Remove the lithium strip while still its submerged in solvent and discard the rest of the guts into a rubbish bag and set aside.
● Now begin tearing the lithium while still submerged in your solvent, into small flat post stamp size pieces, and seal the bag.
Hint: You can also remove a small part of the strip to tear up out of the solvent to make it easier, just be sure to only keep the lithium out of the solvent for a limited time.

12. Add the 60 grams from the airtight container of Nitrate or the Sulphate you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

13. Add the 2.4 grams of PSE you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

14. Add the 400ml of solvent/solvent mix into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

15. Add the remaining 200ml of solvent, and the lithium pieces into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

16. Add the container of NaOH (lye) you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

Important Hint for step 17: Be ready to quickly screw the nozzle assembly to fire extinguisher cylinder immediately after adding water, and give the fire extinguisher a swirl to re-coat the lithium pieces with solvent.

17. Add 10ml to 15ml of water to the fire extinguisher.

● The lithium will react with water, and catch fire if left exposed to open air for to long.
● Coating lithium with solvent protects it from water and air.

18. Once the nozzle assembly is tightened securely, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for about 20 seconds.

19. Place the fire extinguisher in the bucket with the boiling hot water.

20. About 5 to 10 minutes later, remove the fire extinguisher from the bucket, shake the hell out of it for about 20 seconds, and put it back in your hot water bucket.

21. Repeat steps 19 and 20 until 30 minutes have passed from the start of the reaction (try to get the pressure up to about 150 to 200psi during the first 30 minutes)

22. Now, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for 20 seconds, and then place it in the bucket with ice (or ice shavings) for 5 to 10 minutes.

23. Repeat shaking and ice water bucket for a total o 30 minutes.

24. Attach 1 end of the rubber hose to the fire extinguisher nozzle and run the other end up and though the water trap in the toilet past the water.

25. Use the nozzle handle to vent the pressure from the fire extinguisher in short bursts until pressure reaches 0psi.
Hint: When you lower the pressure to 0 psi, the reaction between the AN (or AS) and NaOH (lye) will kick back up again.

26. Quickly, before pressure in the fire extinguisher builds again, unscrew the nozzle assembly from the cylinder.

27. Prepare the funnel with 1/2 a paper towel folded up stuffed tightly into the stem and 3 or 4 coffee filters in the funnel.
Hint: Instead of paper towel you can use cotton balls stuffed in the stem.

28. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the fire extinguisher into the glass jar/mason jar.
● Pour the reactants from the fire extinguisher into a plastic baggie, snip the corner off the baggie, and squeeze the juice out of the reactants into the jar with the rest of your solvent, then discard the baggie with reactants.
● Once the filters have no more solvent, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much solvent as possible then discard them.
● Remove the paper towel from the funnel, squeeze the solvent from it into the jar, and discard it.

Water Pull (Titration)

Things you need:
h2o (water)
hcl acid
ph strips
glass jar with your solvent/meff

1. Add about 50% of the amount of water to the solvent in the glass jar, put the lid on tight, and shake the hell out of it for about 5 minutes to wash the solvent and remove certain impuritys

2. Dump the water/solvent mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from a peg or pin it from the top corner of the bag

3. Allow the layers to seperate (solvent on top, dirty water on the bottom) cut a little hole in the bottom corner of the baggie with a sewing needle/pin and allow the waste water to drain into any container for throwing out later

4. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for a fresh glass jar and collect the fuel

5. Repeat step 1-4 one more times
Hint: do not do this step (water wash) if you are going to bang your meff as the sulfur impurities are what give you that initial rush when you get some good shooting meth (i dont use needles but i have done my research)

6. After the 2nd water wash, pour the solvent from the glass jar into a plastic baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.

7. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of hcl acid to the solvent/water mix, shake it around for a minute or so.

8. Let the mix settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH.
hint: Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water below the solvent layer.

9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 until PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
hint: when you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop at a time and retest PH after each drop.

10. Let the layers separate, use a pin/needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water onto your evaporation plate.
hint: pyrex dishes work perfect.

11. Pinch a hole in the corner of the baggie when the water drained and then drain the fuel back into the glass jar.
hint: don’t let any fuel drain onto your plate

12. Repeat the process again on your solvent.
hint: this time it will only need 2-3 drops of hcl acid

13. use a blowdryer and if you want a hotplate or non gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a layer of meth and then just scrape your meth off the plate using a razor.

● The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns clean in a melt test.
● You can then do a recrystallization from there if you like, its not necessary, but will remove impurity and you will get "shards" not powder.


Acetone Wash

1. Allow meth to completely dry.

2. Crush meth crysals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass.

3. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass untill the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 to 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate.

4. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain off the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impuritys.

5. Scrap the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, razor, or whatever, then clean the shot glass.


ReCrystalization

1. Scape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add to a clean shot glass.
2. Use the clean eyedropper to transfer the non salt portion of the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) from the jar in the freezer into a glass jar that you can fit in a pot.
Hint: boil water and put it in a container place your jar in the boiling water until your isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) starts boiling.
SAFTEY WARNING: REMEMBER, NO FLAMES GUYS!

3. Once boiling use an clean eyedropper to slowly add the boiling isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the meth in the shotglass.
● Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
● Stir, the meth will dissolve, and anything that doesn't is impurity.
● Siphon the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix into a second shot glass carefully leaving behind solid impurity

4. Heat isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix the same way as before, just untill you just start to see the first signs of film developing on surface.

5. Stop heating and add a drop or two more of isopropanol alcohol (or methanol), and add a couple of drops of acetone, and allow to evaporate.
● If you put it in the freezer it takes about 6 hours, but produces small crystals.
● If you put it in the fridge it takes longer, but you get bigger and longer crystals.
● If you leave it at room temp it takes the longest amount of time, but you get the biggest and longest crystals.
Hint: The idea behind this is the longer it takes for the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to cool down the bigger and longer the crystals are, because they have longer to form (very simple explanation).

WARNING: Do not touch or move the jar while it is growing crystals.

6. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing.

7. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold acetone to remove surface impurities, and let dry completely one last time.

Up next: Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way. Enso’s Miniature story.

---------- That's all folks ----------

Edit: Just some formatting
Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
/*
I know the . is not meant to be there
*/
Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

Comments

  • DfgDfg Admin
    Disclaimer:

    Information provided here is for educational purposes only. We highly suggest you don't try anything without proper supervision and research.
    Disclaimer: I am writer and I love writing fucked up things, I am not responsible if those fucked up things are accurate or get used for illegal purposes. Please, do not bother me."

    IRC: https://rizon.net/chat #totse
  • Dfg;254324" said:
    Disclaimer:

    Information provided here is for educational purposes only. We highly suggest you don't try anything without proper supervision and research.
    I will also edit mine so that part is also in bold...
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • DfgDfg Admin
    enso;254326" said:
    [quote="Dfg;254324"]Disclaimer:

    Information provided here is for educational purposes only. We highly suggest you don't try anything without proper supervision and research.
    I will also edit mine so that part is also in bold...[/quote]

    Thanks mate, got to keep this place running.
    Disclaimer: I am writer and I love writing fucked up things, I am not responsible if those fucked up things are accurate or get used for illegal purposes. Please, do not bother me."

    IRC: https://rizon.net/chat #totse
  • OK so if anyone has any questions fire away... I am around here quite a lot and don't mind answering any questions...
    Printf (" noob soldering I politely say "you are using the wrong type of solder you need electrical solder " noob stares at me ");
    echo ' noob then snaps "I'm a pro I know what I'm doing" .br/> ';
    /*
    I know the . is not meant to be there
    */
    Pringln (" I wait till he finishes his board and goes to test it and it doesn't work... Maybe next time he will take advice or at least check his solder wasn't acid ");

  • So if a firefighter wanted to fill up an extinguisher but could not find a 1 L could he then use a 2 L and put double the powder in it as called for in the 1L and still be safe from fire ?
  • Vent the fex into water and muriatic acid mix. About 80% water 20% muriatic acid .add more acid if you start to smell anyrhing. Do this often in same water / acid mix u can then use the ammonium chloride for your next cook
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