Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way Enso’s Miniature story.

edited May 2016 in Spurious Generalities
Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way Enso’s Miniature story.

Disclaimer:
The up coming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

Some important information.

The ratios are based on you using red phosphorus from matchbooks and iodine from tincture. WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT ADJUST RATIO.
The reason is never once while small scale producing has one had a failure or half reacted product, and never yielded under 65%. So follow instructions and don't make any adjustments.

From start to finish takes the average bee about 2 hours. Give yourself 2.5 hours… or if your slow 3…. You will end up with at least 0.7gm of super strong meth.

This guys bee has seen his share of failures during his adventures of cooking, but for some fucked up reason those were only seen in much larger scale cooks.

This guys bee has taught his friends this small scale procedure because some people have a really hard time understanding the mathematics of producing meth.
Learning this way will teach you the basics hands on.

Producing HIGH QUALITY meth fail safe and consistently is a skill that takes 100% visual/observational skills and actually knowing what is happening WHILE it is happening and knowing that fine line of needed adjustments if things don't go as planned. That makes this synth a good tool to exercise your observational skills and get you understanding what is going on.

Reaction

Materials
● test tubes (a glass cigar tube works fine)
● a packet of standard size water balloons
● black electrical tape
● 2 food cans (one filled with damp sand)
● candle (buy the kind that sit in glass bowl)
● 1.5 grams clean pseudoephedrine
● 3 grams iodine
● 2 grams red phosphorus
● small amount of peroxide (common household)
● distilled water

Using 2 of the food cans, one on top of the other, makes a perfect source of heat to the moist sand. Construction is quite simple: the lower can has holes drilled throughout it for air supply for flame. Now with candle lit in 1st can place 2nd can with sand right on top. The sand will warm instantly and your ready to go.

The ratio you will be using is:

● 1.5 grams clean PSE
● 3 grams Iodine tincture
● 2 grams RedP

● Place your test tube in freezer 5 minutes before adding chemicals. In the following order add: Iodine, PSE, RedP.

● Have your tape and balloon ready to go.
● With a dropper add 4 drops of peroxide and place balloon over test tube approx. 1cm. Tape balloon in place.
● Using your finger to prevent anything from entering the balloon, shake the 3 reactants to mix well. The reaction will start, now place tube into sand 2.5-3 inches and set timer for one hour.

● now is the time to use your observational skills; take notes on what you see. After a handful of runs at this soon you won't need to set a timer because you will have taught yourself and have your own signs that completion of the reaction is there. But for now go with 1 hour, no more no less.
● Blow your candle out and let tube cool in sand for 15 min. Take your now room temp. test tube and cut balloon off.

●Add 20ml dh2o. With thumb over the hole, shake up and filter out the red (its good to have a few test tubes clean and handy) by pouring liquid into another test tube using small funnel and 1 coffee filter (saturate filter with dh2o prior to using.) Now your left with a clear, yellowish liquid.

Water titration (Crystallization)

Materials

● NaOH (lye)
● Naphtha (charcoal lighter fluid)
● Muriatic acid
● dh2o

● Add 8gm of lye to a clean test tube. Now add 20mL of dh2o and mix well (use gloves if you shake tube using your finger as a stopper!) then place in sand to cool.
● Add 50mL lighter fluid to the tube with your yellow liquid. When cool add the lye solution SLOWLY to the tube with the yellow liquid and lighter fluid. Don't pour it in all at once, add splashes until gone.

● Cover the hole and give it one good shake, release the pressure and place in sand for approx. 15 minutes. Your lye will be locked on the bottom which is fine.

● Pour off lighter fluid into a clean test tube. Add 20mL dh2o, 4 drops of acid and shake hard. Use an eye dropper to get the bottom layer, attaching aquarium vacuum tubing to extend the length if needed. Pour this onto your glass dish and evaporate. What remains after dh2o evaporates is pure meth.

If you want crystals (shards) you have to do a recrystallization.

That's all folks!

Up next: How to remove fexofenadine from decongestant. Enso's little story

Comments

  • hey I been trying to [sipher] (the)/mathematics]]on this and I am still stuck I really need a/some (boost/)+help) can u explain a better way or easier path to really relate to your story as I would love to write mo own and be able to relate
  • Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields mor product!!??
  • enso wrote: »
    Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way Enso’s Miniature story.

    Disclaimer:
    The up coming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

    Some important information.

    The ratios are based on you using red phosphorus from matchbooks and iodine from tincture. WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT ADJUST RATIO.
    The reason is never once while small scale producing has one had a failure or half reacted product, and never yielded under 65%. So follow instructions and don't make any adjustments.

    From start to finish takes the average bee about 2 hours. Give yourself 2.5 hours… or if your slow 3…. You will end up with at least 0.7gm of super strong meth.

    This guys bee has seen his share of failures during his adventures of cooking, but for some fucked up reason those were only seen in much larger scale cooks.

    This guys bee has taught his friends this small scale procedure because some people have a really hard time understanding the mathematics of producing meth.
    Learning this way will teach you the basics hands on.

    Producing HIGH QUALITY meth fail safe and consistently is a skill that takes 100% visual/observational skills and actually knowing what is happening WHILE it is happening and knowing that fine line of needed adjustments if things don't go as planned. That makes this synth a good tool to exercise your observational skills and get you understanding what is going on.

    Reaction

    Materials
    ● test tubes (a glass cigar tube works fine)
    ● a packet of standard size water balloons
    ● black electrical tape
    ● 2 food cans (one filled with damp sand)
    ● candle (buy the kind that sit in glass bowl)
    ● 1.5 grams clean pseudoephedrine
    ● 3 grams iodine
    ● 2 grams red phosphorus
    ● small amount of peroxide (common household)
    ● distilled water

    Using 2 of the food cans, one on top of the other, makes a perfect source of heat to the moist sand. Construction is quite simple: the lower can has holes drilled throughout it for air supply for flame. Now with candle lit in 1st can place 2nd can with sand right on top. The sand will warm instantly and your ready to go.

    The ratio you will be using is:

    ● 1.5 grams clean PSE
    ● 3 grams Iodine tincture
    ● 2 grams RedP

    ● Place your test tube in freezer 5 minutes before adding chemicals. In the following order add: Iodine, PSE, RedP.

    ● Have your tape and balloon ready to go.
    ● With a dropper add 4 drops of peroxide and place balloon over test tube approx. 1cm. Tape balloon in place.
    ● Using your finger to prevent anything from entering the balloon, shake the 3 reactants to mix well. The reaction will start, now place tube into sand 2.5-3 inches and set timer for one hour.

    ● now is the time to use your observational skills; take notes on what you see. After a handful of runs at this soon you won't need to set a timer because you will have taught yourself and have your own signs that completion of the reaction is there. But for now go with 1 hour, no more no less.
    ● Blow your candle out and let tube cool in sand for 15 min. Take your now room temp. test tube and cut balloon off.

    ●Add 20ml dh2o. With thumb over the hole, shake up and filter out the red (its good to have a few test tubes clean and handy) by pouring liquid into another test tube using small funnel and 1 coffee filter (saturate filter with dh2o prior to using.) Now your left with a clear, yellowish liquid.

    Water titration (Crystallization)

    Materials

    ● NaOH (lye)
    ● Naphtha (charcoal lighter fluid)
    ● Muriatic acid
    ● dh2o

    ● Add 8gm of lye to a clean test tube. Now add 20mL of dh2o and mix well (use gloves if you shake tube using your finger as a stopper!) then place in sand to cool.
    ● Add 50mL lighter fluid to the tube with your yellow liquid. When cool add the lye solution SLOWLY to the tube with the yellow liquid and lighter fluid. Don't pour it in all at once, add splashes until gone.

    ● Cover the hole and give it one good shake, release the pressure and place in sand for approx. 15 minutes. Your lye will be locked on the bottom which is fine.

    ● Pour off lighter fluid into a clean test tube. Add 20mL dh2o, 4 drops of acid and shake hard. Use an eye dropper to get the bottom layer, attaching aquarium vacuum tubing to extend the length if needed. Pour this onto your glass dish and evaporate. What remains after dh2o evaporates is pure meth.

    If you want crystals (shards) you have to do a recrystallization.

    That's all folks!

    Up next: How to remove fexofenadine from decongestant. Enso's little story

    Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields more product!!??
  • AzzShard wrote: »
    Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields mor product!!??

    Because it's not easier requires a lot more observations are needed and if done properly a one pot method yields close to 95% return this method does not...
    ALSO a mistake is a lot less forgiving in this method meaning for a new writer with no experience is likely to lose all of said product...
    Mind you this reaction has its place.

    Have you written a few one pot story's and confidant that you understand what's happening completely?

    Ok cool do you want to learn a more lab specific rp/i but don't want to risk a pound of suzi and a lot of time?

    Then I suggest moving along to this story.
    Read this multiple times before changing anything learn visual cues ECT before changing anything.
  • edited May 2017
    is the tincture of iodine the stuff thathat one would find in a medical/pharmacy type setting? The stuff used to sanitize and clean wounds etc? Should it be a certain %?

    Also what ml size glass tube should be used? Go with like a few 100ml ones maybe?

    Can the tubes be cleaned and reused?

    The food cans, can they/are they just 2 aluminum the
    type soup can? Tomato soup can etc?
  • edited May 2017
    anything around this size and glass perfect
    51j-6GFg4FL._AC_UL320_SR198,320_.jpg

    as for iodine tincture sadly i cannot give you my source of iodine as it is hard to come by... its used as a disinfectant but you can also try photo camera stores it is sold as stuff that helps develop film or something.

    you want the highest percentage possible .
    GOOGLE IT :bee:

    any type of metal food tin should work... thicker the better
  • edited May 2017
    Blah remove this comment
  • edited September 2017
    I'm a bit confused about the iodine ratio too. When you say 3g of iodine tincture, can this even be a solution as low as 5% ? I couldn't find any higher so far. Also, is this referring to an iodine in ethanol solution or the potassium iodide with iodine in water solution?
  • Ok I think I figured it out. It has to be potassium iodide in water solution, hence the addition of peroxide which will convert it to iodine. And the tube/ballon thing is basically a ghetto reflux apparatus.
    How bad is this in terms of stench? Can it be done in a condo without attracting too much attention?
  • 1. Is it really that simple? No need to keep the temperature constant?
    2. Does the balloon act as a back condenser? It should hanging or standing upright?
    3. Can I use sudafed (uncleaned pseudoephedrine)? If not, does the denaturate extraction method work?
    4. Will the pressure not blow up the balloon? Do you have to let go of the vapor somehow?

    Thank you in advance for your answer.
  • edited September 2017
    5. And is there no need to control ph?
    6. Ronsonol lighter fluid is right? Or zippo, Kingsford?
  • deilf wrote: »
    1. Is it really that simple? No need to keep the temperature constant?
    2. Does the balloon act as a back condenser? It should hanging or standing upright?
    3. Can I use sudafed (uncleaned pseudoephedrine)? If not, does the denaturate extraction method work?
    4. Will the pressure not blow up the balloon? Do you have to let go of the vapor somehow?
    5. And is there no need to control ph?
    6. Ronsonol lighter fluid is right? Or zippo, Kingsford?
    Thank you in advance for your answer.

    1. Yes, The sand keeps temperature levels relatively stable
    2. The balloon is used as a simple reflux apparatus
    3. The OP states to use 1.5 grams clean PSE that means NO you cannot use sudafed.
    I don't know the other ingredients in the pills... do some more research
    4. Does it say the balloon is going to explode? then no if you mean inflate then yes it may.
    5. .... Does... I am not wasting my breath.
    6. Ronsonol lighter fluid is commonly used among bees. Zippo generally have alot of impurities.
    Do a evaporation test:
    Put a small amount of lighter fluid product on a plate of glass, put it away somewhere and let it dry out.. if it it leaves a big amount of residue after it dries, don't use it.

  • edited September 2017
    Thank you very much for your answer.
    7. Do you need to mash NaOH (balls)?
    8. Could it be 33% hydrochloric acid?
    9. Is that racemic pure or 50/50?
    10. Teacandle is the proper candle?
  • edited October 2017
    deilf wrote: »
    Thank you very much for your answer.
    7. Do you need to mash NaOH (balls)?
    8. Could it be 33% hydrochloric acid?
    9. Is that racemic pure or 50/50?
    10. Teacandle is the proper candle?
    deilf wrote: »
    Anybody... please.
    Stop multi posting in my threads it only makes things messy...

    no point in having "anybody please" as a single comment...

    People aren't answering because you obviously aren't reading op properly and just wanna be spoon fed...
    Not gonna happen here. If you must add it... Edit the comment you just added then add it to that.

  • If someone dreamed to using a heating mantle and round flask instead oft the ghetto setup.,... what temperature would he set it to?
  • track49 wrote: »
    If someone dreamed to using a heating mantle and round flask instead oft the ghetto setup.,... what temperature would he set it to?

    Try and keep it around 150 and do not go above 180.
    You could also use a heat plate and a flat bottom flask. :bee:
  • enso wrote: »
    Try and keep it around 150 and do not go above 180.
    You could also use a heat plate and a flat bottom flask. :bee:

    C° or F° ?

  • if you in your life have u ever make lwr rp/i ull know for sure that the error window in such micro rxns is too big
    plus this reduction was posted on2003 by curbshot and all the old bees said that is a shit
    but u in 2003 u aren't on the hive
  • Illuminatum . What was once hidden is brought to the light. Lies and deceit will always eventually be beat. Always
  • Sorry haters, but this is a SUCCESS story! for all those who have failed, it's probably because your ingredients lacked purity.
    In this story, 1800mg of PSE were first water extracted, then A/B extracted and kept in water solution. Iodine was obtained by reacting 1 part potassium iodide in water solution with 1 part muriatic acid 25% and 5 parts hydrogen peroxide 3%, the filtrate was then sublimed onto a wessel containig cold water. Red P was obtained in pure form from a chemicals supplier. Instructions were followed as described, but the vial was given a good shake every 20 minutes during heating. after about 1.5 hours the baloon went flat and further instructions were followed (water titration). result was GOOD! keep at it bees!
  • Ok, to answer the question about race mic or 50/50, no this does not produce racemic. It's d-meth. If the rp/hi is done correct, you CAN get some fire. Some clean, sexy shards. On a small scale, as with all small scales it seems there's a lot that happens in a much shorter time. Like for example doing a few ounces of clean pse using rp and I takes at least six hours before suck back even starts (can't really use a balloon on a big cook, unless you have a weather balloon. The only purpose of the balloon, besides keeping you from dying from phosphine gas, is to recover you red phosphorus, you see the phosphine gas that's filling your balloon turns back into the red phosphorus. One of the perks of this reaction. Here's the thing though: given the error window is so large, meaning since this is so small and cooks so fast (relatively) the likelihood of iodoephedrine and other chemically interesting yet toxic substituted amphetamines is pretty high. So, this begs the question, as you did, why do it? Simply for the love of chemistry, for the love of the game. It's such an awesome feeling the first time you make something you haven't made before or a substance you HAVE made but thru different means. This is a wonderfully complicated reaction. It's not just a simple, "well the hydriodic acid is what reduces the pse". If someone tells you that, there's a chance that IF they actually perform this reaction their product is a tragic comedy, or a comedic tragedy, your call. Another great thing that can be done with rp/hi, the reduction of a certain tertiary alcohol, but I can't begin to even pretend I know how to make krokodil. I'm familiar only with the production of desoxycodeine. Somewhere there's a demethylation necessary, and or reductive amination. From what I've read and watched people don't give a shit how pure their desomorph really is. But I really don't fucking know.
  • Um, for the guy who wrote just above my last post, at what temp did you maintain your reaction at? For how long? Genuinely excited to hear what DETAILS you should so OBVIOUSLY have. Do tell
  • Good job on the iodine obtaining. Done correctly.. Speaking of which.. If you watch YouTube there's a sciguy goes by codys lab, did a rather impressive iodine extraction from seaweed , which in reality is or at least was the main method of obtaining. For the one guy who asked c or f the answer is c. It's not c bc Enso wrote it, but C bc the original author was a real chemist, or son of and u der stood Celsius is the only acceptable temp in the lab (ok, kelvin too, but you know what I mean if you know and I prefer f but since duty calls just remember 5f=9c+160.. It's a new take on the old method. I heard it from a young Indian boy who used these measurements w a little nemonics. Five fingers equals 9cats (nine lives I guess) plus 160. There really wasn't a mnemonic attached to the plus 160. But remember it and you have no prob. If u are solving for f then it's minus 160.
  • wurfgurf wrote: »
    Um, for the guy who wrote just above my last post, at what temp did you maintain your reaction at? For how long? Genuinely excited to hear what DETAILS you should so OBVIOUSLY have. Do tell

    I don't know about what temp, I just used the candle in a can method as described in the instructions. The vial was definitely HOT, I'd say over a 100 C°. I had it reacting for about 1.5 hours, but I think that was too much. Some other compound appeared after recrystallization, amongst the meth shards there were little square-shaped crystals. No idea what those were, but I filtered them out as they were less soluble in water than the meth. In the aftermath, I can say this method works but it's troublesome and the reward is small. It's definitely worth perfecting if you're looking to go large scale, but you'll need better equipment.
    On a different note, figuring this one out was not obvious at all. It took about 10 attempts to get it right. There's a lot of room for error, so you have to be really anal about the instructions. Use only very clean PSE, clean red P and very pure iodine. The resulting product (before recrystallization) should be flaky, if it's powder you messed up. Also if it's yellowish, you should mix it with activated charcoal and filter.
  • Sorry I got like that. Enso had me thinking everyone was lying, outside of my buds from the good old days.. I read somewhere that a temp of 106c was near perfect for this reaction. Idk, I'm not betting on it even, but there's a CHANCE that those odd square crystals are halogenated amphetamines. They'll get you high, but they're about as toxic as chemo. Wish I could tell you how to purify. Rp and I is not my forte. I get the concept of the multiple reactions occurring, things being reduced, then added onto then reduced again, or something to that effect. Since I learned this dry ice and acetone in situ modified birch (modified as its lithium I'm most accustomed to, though sodium is just a few pestle and mortar scratches away) I've never seen an easier method, a faster method, or a safer method out there. But lately the dry ice has become scarce. I'm close to resorting to snb to feel that sexy liveliness I've so longed for and missed. You know something? I remember this clown of a guy from the Russian countries who swore he could reduce pse in a microwave with hydrogen sulfide made in situ w sulfur and paraffin. He said he could do it one pill at a time on a spoon w a match head , wax again, and fire from below. Yeah, I tried. No, I didn't feel shit. I chalked it up to drug induced/inspired insanity. I read a little chemistry while in prison, sadly most of it was in a vain effort to start a heroin ring. In other words, creating acetic anhydride from relatively easy methods seemed feasible, so I sought it out. But what hit me was one inescapable truth: h2s IS a powerful reductant. But it's use is limited to other gases, so it seemed. Ah, I remembered. The Russian guy was saying something about the microwave heating the mixture in a cup that was covered with a cloth held onto the cup as a lid by a rubber band. The heat of the microwave caused the pse to vaporize and the sulfur and hydrocarbon of choice (I believe, strongly, that it was paraffin) combined and became h2s, supposedly reducing the pse vapors. I see the plausibility but I also see a very dangerous and shitty smelling possibility. I'd rather smell vaporizing ammonia than any sulfide. Curiosity could quite possibly kill a cat. Don't try this, not unless you know how to reduce w h2s and how to save a microwave from rotten egg smell disaster.
  • Ok, I suppose catalytic hydrogenation in pretty freaking safe. I mean you really gotta be a dumb fuck to get hurt there.
  • Has anyone ever had an issue with mbrp. I haven't had need for any in years. But recently tried and what I'm left with is red playdough. What I used to get from strike plates was nice powdery and had a smell having never smelled labgrade rp just smelled like I imagined it. I used two different match manufacturer s 2 boxes each. I tried breaking it up as much as possible and soaking in muriatic . But when dry still playdough. After I soaked the strikers in acetone. Rp came off quicker then I decided to save money and rinse strikers of loose red p with water. Anyone have this red p goop . It floated at first to. Now my i2 is just subliming away
  • I've not had any dreams where there was play dough, but I had this idea that there was a good video on this on YouTube by the chemist, nilered
  • Well if I get nothing back after evaporating water after titration Where might my m.a. be. Now slowly evaporating but doesn't look like anything yet. At first I was trying to evaporate fast . Could I have steam distilled my m.a. away?
  • You would think even if the reaction didn't take there would be unreacted pseudo or some intermediate between pseudo and m.a. could it still b in the lye water or naptha I saved both.
  • Do I have to dry the hcl gas. From muriatic acid, alum reaction for gassing?
  • You don't really, if you're just trying to get product. But you can and it is preferred. Just go to lowes or your hardware store and get a small thing of calcium chloride, tear open the bag, or whatever compartment yours would be, pour a few into the tube that the gases are going thru. Oh! And for your other question, GOOD fucking question btw! Yes, there is pseudo that didn't make the cut and there's possibly, and this is more common in snb bc of the proportions of used. Cmp, cyclohexadienyl methylaminopropane. It's also known as the birch by product. Nasty stuff. It's supposedly nonpharmaceutically active and carcinogen but I remember in the beginning I was getting some odd ball shit, like back pain in the exact same spot with one kind, a fight with the future but now ex wife, lol that's whole other sad but fun story that I should probably do comedy with..anyways. There is an easy way to get both out, but you will notice a much smaller amount left unless you have the cook right. If you want the absolute pure cum in your pants stuff, go to Walmart, go to the aisle for pets, see the aquarium area, look for a small (fits in my palm) yellow bottle of this stuff called clear water. "Clear water" NOT WATER CLEAR. I know sounds fucking dumb as an instruction add on but there is actually a larger bottle of stuff called that and it's not kmno4 solution. Enso did a good job rewording the one I wrote, but I cussed him out over it bc he tried to say he came up w it and I don't like that too much. Granted the guy can write, but he never said any kind of apology.. Anyways,.. The solution in the bottle I mention, the very dark, ink like solution in the small yellow bottle called Clearwater is perfect for the separation step. It's an acid base extraction with one drop of the Clearwater solution at a time, in the water, stir as the color changes, keep adding drops and stir until the drops u drip stay purple, then base out you're solution, add nonpolar and shake, pull the np out in however you prefer, gas or liquid titrate or some other way I'm forgetting or don't know. Again, the method for separation of methamphetamine from cmp and pse is written as a whole other line on here. And don't be embarrassed about what you don't know. It's good to be that humble bc then you DO know! Alright love yall
  • Btw, I called the 800 number on the back of the Clearwater bottle and asked what was in the bottle, even though it says potassium permanganate on the back. The lady told me it was a 1% solution, mixed w distilled water, THATS IT,!! that's why it's perfect, you do not have to alter it in any way, it's ready to react with your product in some distilled water.
  • ace87 wrote: »
    Well if I get nothing back after evaporating water after titration Where might my m.a. be. Now slowly evaporating but doesn't look like anything yet. At first I was trying to evaporate fast . Could I have steam distilled my m.a. away?
    YES, YOU REALLY COULD HAVE. I made that mistake once, maybe twice, accidentally blowing product vapor right as my cat entered the garage. I watched her pupils dilate to full black then she left at light speed. That was my indicator, that I was really vaping the stuff. That and the plethora of songs playing in my head, then eventually the reall high kicked in. U learned something, don't forget your experience. Thanks for posting

  • Well the water is almost all the way evaporated. Nothing. I hope that when I siphoned the naptha I pulled some of the lye water layer. And when I added 4 drops of muriatic acid only neutralizion between the lye and acid. So as the meth freebase stayed in the non polar and didn't form meth hcl witch would've been in the water. Cause the water has nothing. No pseudo intermediate or final product. Freebase pseudo was used and the pseudo was sparking cystaline material. Iodine crystals looked pretty good, no sublimation but we're dried with naoh. And phosphorus looked and smelled "phosphorusy". Ran a wetter reaction only 3 hrs . But even if it didn't react at all. Where is the pseudo. Acid base titration could be the hardest part. Gassing or water titration both have never went well. I had pale yellow reaction fluid . I thought I saw napth become cloudy after addition of lye water. I thought that could be freebase entering naptha but after siphoning naptha adding water then 4 drops of acid and pulling water and a minimal amount of naptha . After evaporation of water nothing . I doubt it all steam distilled. I stopped heated evaporation 2 min after I saw steam and never went to far past second lowest setting on hotplate. I hope I find some kinda salt somewhere I saved both the lye water/reaction fluid and the non polar. Does the transition between freebase m.a. to hcl take time?
  • Well the water finally evaporated . Swim was left with pitiful amount of yellowish crystal film. Upon acetone wash yielded nice chunky white crystal material. Seems slightly stimulating. Very disappointed. May try a second pull in xylene . Naptha isnt the best non poloar isho
  • Yeah, naphtha has its drawbacks. If you can't get xylene, try heating up the naphtha, get it u der the temp of boiling water, but near that. Use THAT and you should observe a big difference.. Anyways, me? I happened upon 8 pounds of dry ice.. Tomorrow is going to be interesting. Also, if you are reading this please take note: DO NOT, I IMPLORE YOU, DO NOT MIX BUPROPION INTO A METH FILLED DAY! It took two klonopins, eight neurontins and two low dose sildenafils while also trying to suck down water as much as possible to dilute levels of what ever the fuck I was dying from. Either I was dying, or I had the absolute worst fucking panic attack I have ever had and if I hadn't brought my physical conditions, distressing as they were, to at least one person I trust, but withholding the fact I had consumed meth or some terrible mismatch of poorly reduced amine look alikes, and making the boring but plausible alibi-cum-confession of taking too much Wellbutrin, I slowly, gratefully, and humbly returned to some semblance of sobriety, embarrassed and depressed, confused and also annoyed, as audastic as that is. With my pride fistfucked in front of enough people to keep me quiet in my living area for a while, I at least feel some satisfaction in having scored the big ass block of dry ice that I got, some isopropanol to act in place of acetone, since it was cheaper and less obvious, a really nice box of pseudoephedrine with a low dose of loratidine along for the ride. And get this! You know the boxes of 96 30mgs red hots? Well, this was 48 60 mgs white pills, same exact size as the red hots. I carefully ground the pills to a super fine white powder, which took no real strength nor time to complete. So I have a 2.85 g batch, awaiting tomorrow's reduction. There are some among you who may have noticed that doing the snb w Claritin d often ends up w super pure crystal. This is a generic attempt at claritin d and it cost about six bucks, while the 96 count Reds were close to twenty. Same amount, perhaps purer too. Loratidine will eat up any chance of an over cook, and reduce to desloratidine, clarinex. This is more common drug in Canada and other places. Alright, good night everyone, sorry for those who are die hard rp/I fans and I just flew over your interests and shit little nuggets of truth about the birch. Alright, I'm going to fuck myself, since sildenafil is viagra, even if it's a small dose., clean up, go to bed and attempt to wake with dignity and self respect, slapping the day in the face!
  • AzzShard wrote: »
    Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields mor product!!??

    u r a fool. rp/ or acid cooks yeilds ALWAYS BETTER DOPE that bottle dope
    plus many gup chucked pillz in bottle dope, than in serious rxn u have to clean your feedstock and this days with eudrashit (eudragit) polymers and such the turps cure wont work, also japan dryer not
    strb3 and tetra trap and washing sodia can work
    so stop sharing infos on old write ups
    plus @enso i see you are from OZ.
    im happy 4 ya if u make good dope, but plagiarize worlock(tweaker god), ware, tramp, shorty!, geez, placebo etc.. is no good
    i remember a discussion on the hive stimulants that an OZbee claimed to clean in 2007 pills with water, ala 90's
  • Enso the fact that you copy paste the recipe is the be spelling bee, which is only a peculiarlty of the old bees at the hive
    and micro rxn are only loss of time
  • AzzShard wrote: »
    Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields mor product!!??

    u r a fool. rp/ or acid cooks yeilds ALWAYS BETTER DOPE that bottle dope
    plus many gup chucked pillz in bottle dope, than in serious rxn u have to clean your feedstock and this days with eudrashit (eudragit) polymers and such the turps cure wont work, also japan dryer not
    strb3 and tetra trap and washing sodia can work
    so stop sharing infos on old write ups
    plus @enso i see you are from OZ.
    im happy 4 ya if u make good dope, but plagiarize worlock(tweaker god), ware, tramp, shorty!, geez, placebo etc.. is no good
    i remember a discussion on the hive stimulants that an OZbee claimed to clean in 2007 pills with water, ala 90's
  • I guess it truly depends on your skill level. Mine, w rp/I, is limited to three cooks, and one of them I completely fucked up. The other two, however, I got some decent crystal from. One especially so, however I couldn't shake the iodoephedrine at the time, something I've since learned how to do. But w the shake and bake, if u have learned to perfect it to a superior degree, you may find that the rp/I is cumbersome and takes too long, p,us it's risky in ways that an amateur faces with any cook except catalytic conversions.. Anyways.. Yeah, I'd say this could go back and forth, bc my snb cooks have been better than my rp/I ones.. Stick w what u know, unless u have access to piles and piles of red p
  • AzzShard wrote: »
    Y would u do this when SnB is easier and yields mor product!!??

    u r a fool. rp/ or acid cooks yeilds ALWAYS BETTER DOPE that bottle dope
    plus many gup chucked pillz in bottle dope, than in serious rxn u have to clean your feedstock and this days with eudrashit (eudragit) polymers and such the turps cure wont work, also japan dryer not
    strb3 and tetra trap and washing sodia can work
    so stop sharing infos on old write ups
    plus @enso i see you are from OZ.
    im happy 4 ya if u make good dope, but plagiarize worlock(tweaker god), ware, tramp, shorty!, geez, placebo etc.. is no good
    i remember a discussion on the hive stimulants that an OZbee claimed to clean in 2007 pills with water, ala 90's

    Neuromaten, that eudragit really was a son bitch eh? And the manufacturers had rolled the ingredient into a patent so they didn't have to list it in the ingredient list. Dirty rotten trickery. As I recall it was Uncle Fester that slayed that dragon with his back to basics KOH reflux. It killed the Eudragit and it neutralized the polymers. It was a real gem of a system. I suppose that potassium hydrox could probably plug into a sssssnnnnnnbbbbbbbbb. Ever heard of that working successfully?
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