Author: Dfg

  • BackBreaker Football

    FINALLY we have an alternative to Madden NFL every year. I just picked this game up yesterday and in my mind it is a Madden killer. If they keep this up I will never buy another Madden game again. It uses the same euphoria engine used in GTA4 so the tackles and running are as realistic as it gets. No tackle looks the same. Before I go any further I will point out that Backbreaker does not use real NFL teams since EA bought the exclusive rights. it does not have all the bells and whistles Madden does. Now that’s out of the way so Ill move on to what makes this game great. First off the graphics are great. Also this is the closest to simulation football since NFL 2k5. Remember too this game was made in the UK by a relatively small company on there first try. Many people complained about the camera angle. I actually love it. Instead of the overhead God view of Madden it’s more of a players view. You wont rush for 800 yards per game like in Madden. It’s REALISTIC football. Like I said before it doesn’t have all the polish Madden does it doesn’t even have good announcers. It’s just raw football. Despite some of these flaws it’s amazing especially for the first try. The game is only’y 30 bucks new. So anyone on here that’s a fan of sport games I fully recommend you buy backbreaker. I can assure you it’s worth every dollar. Sorry for the short review I’ll add more to it once I play it some more and learn the game a bit better.

    By DirtySanchez

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  • A Nightmare on Elm Street (not the new one)

    A Nightmare on Elm Street (not the new one)

    I just got the box set a few day’s ago of the nightmare on elm street series. This is what I think of the Series. Here’s my review.

    Nightmare on Elm street

    The first one is very good albeit old. It’s where it all begins when a group of teens end up being killed by there nightmares. Very good movie for it’s age it also features Johnny Depps first role in a film 4/5

    Nightmare on Elm street 2

    A lot of people hated this one because it didnt follow the storyline of the first. I actually enjoyed it a lot. The story is a new kid moves to elm street and Freddy begins taking over his body to do his dirty work for him. Overall I enjoyed it I’ll give it 3 out of 5

    NOES3

    The third one imo is the best in the series. It features a group of teen’s in a mental hospital who begin having nightmares and there deaths are written off by the staff as suicides. It also features Nancy from the first one returned as a psychologist. The special effects in this one were the best of the series. 4/5

    NOES4&5

    I’m putting these 2 together because to me they were the weakest of the series. They turned Freddy into more of a comedy than horror and it didn’t work well. They were semi entertaining so 2 out of 5 for both.

    NOES Freddy’s Dead

    This is the finale of the series and it features another group in a Juvenile facility being killed off and haunted by nightmares. In this one Freddy Krueger is finally killed off. They did an attempt for the end at 3D and it failed miserable. 2/5

    Wes Cravens New nightmare

    This one’s story involves the actress from 1 and 3 battling Freddy because he enter’s IRL. This one also features a cameo of Wes Craven. Despite the somewhat lame story it was very well made and I thought it was one of the better in the series. One thing I hated though was the fact that a small kid (the main characters son) is featured prominently in this film which I didn’t like. 4/5

    Sorry for the short reviews but it was a lot of movie’s to cover in one review. Overall it’s a great series if you enjoy B level horror movies.

    By DirtySanchez

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  • How Not To Lose (too much) When Playing Craps (Dice)

    How Not To Lose (too much) When Playing Craps (Dice)

    Bankroll:

    First you need a bankroll, this should be money you can afford to lose. In other words it should not be your rent, grocery money, or your children’s college trust fund. Betting only money from the bankroll will prevent you from losing money that you need to live.

    Session Bankroll:

    No matter if you’re playing craps, blackjack, or roulette you should divide the money in your bankroll into “session bankrolls.” A session bankroll is a portion of your overall bankroll that you plan to spend during one session at a live gaming table. For craps one session bankroll should be 100 times larger than the tables minimum wager. For example if it is a 1 dollar minimum bet your session bankroll should be one hundred dollars. If the table’s minimum is five dollars then your session bankroll should be five hundred dollars.

    The reason for setting up session bankrolls is that beating craps is impossible. Eventually you will hit a bad losing streak. Just as your general bankroll protects you from losing the money you need to live, session bankrolls will help protect the money you need to play.

    Session bankrolls together with your general bankroll, keep you from spending every dime you’ve set aside in one trip to the table. The session bankroll also eliminates the possibility that you’ll dip into your regular living budget because you have lost all the money you set aside to play in just a few hours. Also with session bankrolls if you hit a losing streak you can leave before too much damage is done and return for a second, third, or even fourth attempt.

    Rolling Stop-loss:

    A rolling stop-loss is a more sophisticated method of handling a stop-loss. It works better than the typical “stop when you lose it all” rule. It also prevents the disappointment of being significantly up and then losing it all back.

    A rolling stop-loss can be any amount you choose and there are various ways of calculating it, but the “sliding window” is pretty typical. Let’s say you start a session with 100 bets. If you win 50 bets then the window slips forward by that amount. The original stop-loss was zero (a net loss of 100 bets); the new stop-loss has moved forward to 50. You always exit the session if you lose 100 bets from the highest point of the bankroll. That means you’re permanently in a profit zone after a net win of more than 100 bets.

    A stop-loss is effective because it limits action. It’s a practical way of managing your money when playing a negative-expectation contest, but it doesn’t change the house edge. Wager-for-wager you won’t win any more or less on average than someone who never stops playing until the bankroll is exhausted. But if losing is in your future, it will happen more slowly.The ideal stop-loss is one that matches your temperament and betting style.

    Set a win-limit which is the a win amount that would cause you to exit a session. Many people use a static win-limit of double the buy in or double the session bankroll. Some people have a rolling win-limit. Like a stop-loss, a win-limit doesn’t change the house edge, but it does lock up profits for a particular session. After all, you must leave the casino at [I]some[/I] point. You might as well leave when you’re up.

    Bankroll Size:

    The chance of winning does not depend on how much money you have, but rather, the amount of your bankroll compared to the size of your bets. That is what affects the odds of having a profitable session. For an example let’s say that three players are all hoping for a fifty dollar profit. Each player only makes $5 Pass Line bets with no odds however their individual bankrolls differ. Player one has $25 and a 29% chance to hit the mark, player 2 has $50 and a 43% chance to succeed, and player 3 has $100 and a 57% chance to profit fifty dollars. The likelihood of success improves as the size of the bankroll increases. A low bankroll reduces the number of plays before you either reach your win goal, or lose everything. I want to maximize my opportunities while minimizing the exposure that my money has to endure.

    Here’s what happens when these $5 Pass Line bettors want to make either a set-amount of $50 in profit, or lose it all in trying Player one with a $25 stake Mick can expect 49 decisions, boom or bust, Player two with a $50 stake anticipates 99 rounds, good or bad, and Player three should go 207 decisions on his $100, win or lose.

    Basic Strategy:

    As for strategies of play in craps it is important to understand one basic concept of wagering before we proceed. If you cannot win three bets in a row you are not going to win in long run no matter what. To understand this statement we only need to examine a simple wager on the toss of a coin between two players. The flip of a coin is a 50/50 proposition or even money. If they each bet one dollar per decisions and player one wins the first bet but player two wins the second and third bet then player two has risked three dollars to win one dollar on an even money bet. In other words his risk reward ratio was 1:3 but his chance of winning was only 1:2. In order for this to have paid even money or true odds in this scenario, player two’s chance of winning would have had to have been 3:1.

    Now let’s look at a different approach and a different scenario in the coin flip game. If player 1 wins the first three decisions but instead of betting one dollar per flip presses his bet each time the odds are much better. In this scenario player one has risked three dollars to win eight dollars. The rick reward ratio is now 8:3 and the chance of winning was 1:2.

    In other words while you are playing nothing is your money except the session bankroll you started the session with. The bets you “win” are not yours until the session has ended. So what we are going to do on the craps table is to attempt to win with the houses money more that with our own money. If we are playing on a one dollar minimum table we would start with one dollar flat bet on the pass line. If we the shooter rolls a point number on the come out roll take full double odds which all houses in Las Vegas allow. Let’s say the point is worse case scenario four or a ten which would be odds of 2:1 against winning. We now have a total of three dollars bet, one on the pass line and two behind that bet for odds. If we win this bet we will be paid even money on the one dollar flat and 2:1 (the true odds) for the two dollar odds we place after the point was established. So we were paid 5:3 when it was 2:1 against us. Not the best return but we can work with it. On the next come out roll you place the three dollars you originally bet on the last decisions along with the five dollars you were paid on the pass line. On the come out roll it is 2:1 your favor that a seven or eleven will roll vs. a two, three, or twelve. If you win on the come out roll you are actually getting paid 8:3 as only three of the eight dollars is from your session bankroll and the other five dollars still belongs to the house. So in that instance you had a 2:1 advantage and instead of getting paid the true odds of 1:2 you enjoyed a much better return of 8:3.

    In the even the shooter does not roll a natural on the come out roll (2, 3, 7, 11, or 12) but instead rolls another point. Even if that point is another four or ten, which we recall is 2:1 against us, you are still going to get paid 8:3 if you win. Also we do not take odds after winning the first of three in a row. So let’s say we win the second decisions we now have risked three dollars to win thirteen dollars. On the third decisions we press the entire sixteen dollars, the three from our session bankroll and the thirteen that still belongs to the house, right back on the pass line. If we win with a natural then we just got paid 16:3 with a 2:1 chance of winning on the come out roll. If the shooter rolls a point number again, even if it is a four or a ten and 2:1 against us, we still get paid 16:3 if we win the third decision.

    At anytime during your session you win three wagers in row using this strategy you simply start back at one dollar and repeat. Of course whenever you lose you always go back to one dollar as start counting towards three in a row once more. Using the bankroll money management along with setting a stop-loss and win-limit with just one string of three wins in row you gain twenty-nine units while only risking only three. This means you only have to win three in a row out of every thirty decisions to break even. If the dice are favorable during your session and you can hit two or three streaks of three wins in a row out of every thirty-two decisions you can gain as much as fifty-eight units per thirty- two decisions which is a payoff of 1.8125:1 in a situation where the house only enjoys a 0.572% edge.

    It should be noted that you can play with a similar approach in blackjack along with some basic card counting to increase your chances in a similar method of manipulating the payoffs to counter the odds. You cannot however apply this strategy to roulette as the odds of winning three bets in a row are drastically less than in craps or black jack

  • Mutatis Mutandis: Things to Consider

    Mutatis Mutandis: Things to Consider

    Nope, no fresh scams here, just a few things that have been on my mind for a while…

    I. Cons do not come with any blueprints, and any that claim to do so should not be followed but developed, built upon, overcome. Every scam textfile you read, every swindle idea you overhear, or every grift you pick up from the evening news, all are to be challenged, analyzed, and remixed to suit your needs. Scams are springboards of multifarious possibilities, they are not recipes that you memorize and then follow mindlessly. There is no such thing as ‘this is what works and this is how you do it.’ You memorize a short-changing bit, get your shit down pat, and then the cashier fucks your game up and hands you two fives instead of a ten. You must adapt general advice to your specific situation. You must give yourself enough room to change your game halfway. If you don’t, you will fail, get tripped up, get nailed.

    Any text which promises universal success “if you do everything this way” is lying. Following this, statements along the lines of “this won’t work” are to be ignored or laughed at, as are boasts akin to “this will definitely work.” Scams are inherently malleable to the given situation. People are stupid, the challenge lies in figuring out who’s got more brains, the grifter or the mark. There is ample room to situate yourself into your particular situation, to do your own research and make your own molding. This is necessary. DIY is a fundamental characteristic of fraud. You’re not painting by numbers, you’re taking shit into your own hands, scoping out your own scene, rooting out your own weaknesses and flaws before anything else.

    This does not mean never ask for advice. Do treat it as saying that if you don’t do your own research you might as well turn yourself in right now. Get the spark and then start your own fire, you’ll be burning the mark yourself—YOU—no guide can do it for you, not even this one. There always are, and always will be, exceptions. Find them.

    II. Don’t act like a fucking pig. “Has anyone actually done this?” See I. Never put anyone in that position. If you are put in that position, answering anything besides a solid No will result in you regretting it, if not today then tomorrow, you will step into some bad shit. Simple enough. Keep your shoes shiny.

    III. Think anthills. Salami slicing. Penny pinching. Cost shaving. The small things add up. The question isn’t how do I jack that lappy worth 2G’s. The question is exactly how many fucking vitamins do I have to return to get enough cash for that lappy I want. Don’t wheel all that schwag out in one go, return five, ten, twenty times. That’s an obvious exaggeration, if you don’t see that, then you’ve understood nothing. Go back and reread from the beginning. Minimize risk. But don’t miss opportunities. Misdemeanors are better than felonies. A can of mace and quick feet can be better than both. A quick tongue trumps them all.

    IV. Read all of this at least once more. Yeah, it’s just that important. Everything written here is a lie and should be treated as such. Destroy it. Copasetic?

    Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur.

    Now ignore everything you just skimmed over and get back to what you do best—namely, fucking up.

    Written by DIzzIE

    I highlighted one of the most crucial parts of this quick write up. The best way to learn how to commit crimes is to actually read the news and what the people who are trying to stop the scams are saying to learn of methods yourself, food for thought and to keep up to date. Most of my paypal scamming knowledge came from the anti-paypal websites like paypalsucks. The “scam-awareness” sites are actually the best place to get ideas and material from for your scams, another example is this anti-phishing website, which gives one who is so-inclined to do some phishing some material (obviously needs editing to suit their needs, such as the actual phishing link for a start). Most “new” scams are old scams with a twist on them, a lot of scams such as 419 and general social engineering related scams aren’t outdated and probably never will be, there are always stupid people who will fall for it. The best thing to do is just look up scams on the internet, wiki them, check the news and your local newspapers for details of any crime and highlight the keypoints of how they carried out said crime and then do more research. Research is the key and editing it to suit your situation is ideal; a good example of doing so can be seen in this episode of the real hustle:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGlbbCniXEI
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fty_x…eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eig76…eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX7Av…eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbTLs…eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5tJM…eature=related

    Just a word on The Real Hustle; like with everything, take it with a pinch of salt; keypoints are left out in certain scams, especially the electronic and credit card related scams. Like I said above, the real hustle is brilliant for food for thought, but do your research and keep in mind the highlighted point in DIzzIE’s article.

    Fraud resources:
    General information on various scams
    http://web.archive.org/web/200503010…ams/index.html
    http://anonym.to/?http://http://www….o_identity.pdf
    http://anonym.to/?http://www.keesing…-passports.pdf

    http://anonym.to/?http://www.keesing…media_pack.pdf

    Paypal
    With ebay and paypal for an answer to your questions on fund holding the best place to go to is the help and general info sections of your country’s actual paypal and ebay domain.

    http://paypalsucks.org/toon1.shtml
    http://paypalsucks.com/ (lots of scam ideas to be obtained from the forums)

    General Bad ideas
    http://wiki.stealthiswiki.org/wiki/Main_Page
    http://forum.stealthiswiki.org/
    http://totse.info/en/bad_ideas/index.html

    By SLIM

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  • Mr. Mayberry Teaches Typing

    Mr. Mayberry Teaches Typing

    To become a proficient computer user, you should learn to type properly and quickly. Here, I will show you the most-used method of typing on a standard QWERTY keyboard.

    First position your fingers on the keys highlighted in the picture. This middle row is called the Home Row. Left pinky on A, left ring finger on S, left middle finger on D, and left middle finger on F. Right pinky on ;, right ring finger on L, right middle finger on K, and right index finger on J. Thumb goes on the spacebar (the long key at the bottom). This is the rest position when you aren’t typing any other keys.

    To reach the other keys, simply use the finger in the corresponding diagonal column to press them. For example, if you wanted to type ‘W,’ then you would use your left ring finger as ‘S’ is in the same column as ‘W’. The column for ‘S’ includes X, S, W, and 2.

    Now, you might notice that ‘G’ and ‘H’ don’t have any fingers in the rest position. Here, use the closest index finger to reach any keys in that column. For example, if you wanted to type ‘B’, you would use your left index finger as ‘F’ is the closest to the column with ‘G.’

    All the letters can be typed now, so let’s move on to other keys. The spacebar is for making a space between two visible characters (anything single thing you type). Simply press it to make a space.

    To type in uppercase letters, the Shift key comes into play. Hold down the Shift key and press a letter to type it in uppercase. Use the Shift key closest to the hand that isn’t pressing the letter.

    You may have noticed that some keys have two symbols on them. These include the number keys and the majority of keys reached by your right pinky. If you just press them, the bottom character will show up. If you hold Shift and press them, the top character will show up.

    Finally, the Enter key is used to start a new line, and the backspace key to delete a character.

    That’s all you need to be able to type. Eventually with practice, you can start typing faster and even modify this method to suit yourself.

    Happy typing!

    By Mr. Mayberry