Spurious Generalities

Spurious Generalities — Totseans https://totseans.com/bbs/ Wed, 02 Nov 2022 14:03:35 +0000 en Spurious Generalities — Totseans Introduce Yourself https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/2990/introduce-yourself Sun, 01 Aug 2010 17:29:27 +0000 Spurious Generalities mashlehash 2990@/bbs/discussions
A site dedicated to bringing the users accurate information and conversation on a vast horizon of subjects ranging from drugs to politics.

I suppose I'll start!

I'm mashlehash and I lurked on the original totse (http:/www.totse.com) forums in 2006 and finally registered sometime in 2007. I did not post in the forums back then very much but I still remember it vividly.

Well I welcome you to &T.i and hope you enjoy the community!

Introduce Yourself!]]> List of hours on TOTSE by username dated January 1 2008. 4454 usernames logged. https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/27119/list-of-hours-on-totse-by-username-dated-january-1-2008-4454-usernames-logged Mon, 20 Dec 2021 09:24:59 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 27119@/bbs/discussions
Thanks FuckHead for sharing this file.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1QFd3F7Nu5KVkgGu8kYV-i-DRh5kWZIhtop46oX2IKwg/edit

Rank: 524
dfgremnantsunleashed
Hours on Totse:
97.8
Life spent on totse:
6.2%

What's yours.

]]> Reclaiming Product from Filters https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26644/reclaiming-product-from-filters Tue, 14 Jul 2020 13:42:51 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26644@/bbs/discussions
1) take your used coffee filters, fold them in 1/4s and place them into a sandwich sized Ziploc baggie.
2) add about 4mL of distilled water to the baggie, and make sure it soaks all of the filters
3) put a plate on an electric stove/hotplate, and turn the heat up to between 2-3.
4) snip a corner of the baggie and drain all the water onto the plate. Wring out every possible drop
5) evaporate all the water out of the solution, leaving behind a lovely crystalline coating on the plate.
6) use a card or razor to scrape it all into a pile, and enjoy.

Again, this might be common sense to most, but I'm sure someone will get some use from it.]]> does shake and bake decay? https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26653/does-shake-and-bake-decay Sun, 03 Jan 2021 04:00:05 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26653@/bbs/discussions . the only issue is this stuff, after a few days, starts to turn orange and just gets more and more orange until it looks like it's not good anymore. is there a way to combat this?? I have done an A/B extraction on some, and believe it or not, the orange tint followed it thru the procedure!! please assist.

oh, I am doing standard bake and shake dream, letting the lithium get nice and bronze then gupchucking right on top of the bronze and shaking for an hour and a half. gassing with salt and h2so4. distilled crown camp fuel for the np, purified ammonium sulfate fertilizer (white crystals) and 100% lye. please advise.]]> Testing to see if topics work https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26648/testing-to-see-if-topics-work Wed, 09 Dec 2020 17:25:26 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 26648@/bbs/discussions Removing CMP get as close as you can to 100% enso’s clean story https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25373/removing-cmp-get-as-close-as-you-can-to-100-enso-s-clean-story Thu, 12 May 2016 02:14:17 +0000 Spurious Generalities enso 25373@/bbs/discussions Removing CMP get as close as you can to 100% enso’s clean story

So why am I writing this?
Because According to the lierature, one can use KMnO4 aka Potassium Permanganate to hydroxylate the double bonds of 1-(1'-Cyclohexadienyl)-2-methyl-aminopropane (CMP) in a basic (pH12) solution allowing one to utilize organic/aqueous phase extraction and separation from Methamphetamine HCL.

So to explain that in a simple manner most could understand.
according to studies a bee could use potassium permanganate to remove cmp which is a very common impurity from there product.

Materials:

● 2 Beakers
● 5 grams of Potassium Permanganate (easy to get)
● Distilled water
● Non polar solvent
● 100% NaOH (lye or sodium hydroxide)
● pH strips
● Eye dropper
● Visine bottle filled with muriatic acid
● Stove top safe pan

For the purposes of this write up, we will be using 2.4 grams Methamphetamine HCL.

1. Make a solution of 2% KMnO4 by dissolving 0.5g KMnO4 in 25 ml dH20.

2. Place 2.4g Unpurified methamphetamine hcl into a beaker then add 3 ml dH20.

3. Add NaOH to test tube until pH 12.

4. Add 20 ml of your 2% KMnO4 solution and agitate with vortex.

5. Add 3 ml of your non polar solvent, shake, and draw up organic layer.

6. Place solvent in "beaker 2" and add 3 ml dH20.

7. pH dropwise to pH 7.6.

8. Draw off aqeous layer (bottom) and place in the pan, evaporate on stovetop to yield Methamphetamine HCL having left behind dihydroxylated and tetrahydroxylated cmps in beaker 1.

Hint: 2x Recrystallization of this final product in dH20 will yield 96-99% pure Methamphetamine HCL.

Hint: You can gas at step 4 instead of panning.

References:

1. Journal of the Clandestine Laboratory Investigating Chemists Association 2008;18
(1) :18-22

2. Volumes calculated from Merck Index (1g:2mL H20)

That’s all folks
Up next: Methcathinone. The ghetto meth. Enso’s story of the ghetto cook.

]]> SnB always fails https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26645/snb-always-fails Wed, 19 Aug 2020 09:21:20 +0000 Spurious Generalities famisyinn 26645@/bbs/discussions
I tried 6 times and always FAIL.
I have tried with naphtha (81% diethyl ether), xylene (99%) and I intend to try with IPA (Alcohol Isopropyl 98%) and I even plan to buy 99% hexane for a try.
But before doing so, I ask for help because I do not understand why the reaction does not start. I bought the naphta at a paint store, it has a strong petroleum smell and it looks like there is a little oil in it, the Surgical gloves I use melted on contact with NAPHTA

I use VARTA batteries as the source of lithium, NaOh 99%, H2SO4 98% + Nacl for the gassing.

All the products are stamped INDUSTRIAL GRADE except the ammonium sulfate which is the fertilizer that I recovered at a large agricultural store. I am fortunate to live in a country where there are no purchase restrictions on these solvents.

The pills used: HUMEX cold. 500 mg acetaminophen 60 mg PSE HCL
Excipients: microcrystalline cellulose, pregelatinized starch, croscarmellose sodium, magnesium stearate, povidone K30. No restriction on it, I buy my pills in the same pharmacy and I bought at least 40 boxes since I tried

I extracted the PSE: I dissolved it in methanol , siphon off the methanol, I let it evaporate on room temperature for 48 h and crystals formed. I boiled the crystals 3 times in toluene and threw in the dirty toluene, then I washed with acetone I let the PSE crystals dry for 12 hours.

The problem:

I use a 0.5 L bottle, roughly 2.4 -3 grm PSE, 90 grm NAOH, 90 grm Ammonium sulfate, 1lithium strip, 250 ml of naphta the first time, then 250 ml of xylene the 5 times, I put everything in the bottle and nothing happening, once I even put 2-3 drops of water and nothing. I shake for hours, I burp a little and always nothing. I burp because once the solvent boiled for a few seconds while I let go. I was surprised, I immediately closed then NOTHING. During the 6 tries I made, I was allowed only 2 seconds of low broth in the bottle.
One time I put the PSE at the beginning so as not to have to open the bottle, but NOTHING.
The last time I shake for hours trying to start the reaction but nothing and I left the bottle outside then I went to sleep. In the morning there was a very strong pressure in the bottle, the lithium half was colored silver (not bronze or golden), I did a little BURP then I shook and then immediately the lithium became golden, I shake, then golden glitter came out. I left the bottle outside for 3-4 hours of time. The bottle was under pressure again and almost all the lithium was gone, I only had 30-20% of the lithium left.
I was happy, but I think it's not normal that it took almost 24 hours to reduce the lithium to 20-30%.

I BURP then I left another 2 hours of time before recovering the xylene then gas.
The gassing goes well, at the first gassing there is a lot of smoke but little snow which forms in the jar. At second waste, little smoke but a lot of snow that forms. at this moment, we are happy to recover so much snow in the coffee filter.

I continue my nightmare: I therefore recover the product in the filter after the gassing, I wash with acetone, drying the cofee filter with the product and I smoke it and then SHIT !!! it tastes like crappy plastic, and a hard-to-clean black residue in my pipe. As if I just smoked a piece of plastic, always NO EFFECT.

My concern: I have never had a violent reaction in my bottle. BURP always smell AMMONIA !!! WHAT'S WRONG???

My next try: I'm not going to extract PSE anymore, I'm going to put the powder from my pills directly into my reaction bottle. I will do it with which solvent? Xylene and IPA I still have. But I can buy from hexane if hexane is better. I also intend to crush the AS before putting it in the R.V.

Solvents and alcohols are guaranteed PURE and INDUSTRIAL GRADE. . Ammonium Nitrate cannot be found here. The last COLD PACK I found no longer exists because the pharmacy is out of stock. In addition the coldpack is expensive (~ 20 USD for 80 grm compared to A.S. ~ 10 USD for 25 KG).

I used lab grade MgSO4 anhydrous to dry solvent, there is no epsom salt in my country. ( ~25 USD 500 GRM)

Advice for those who want to try:
1- It was after trying that I noticed that the smoke that forms during gassing does not depend on the amount of NaCl and Acid you use. IN fact, even if you put the maximum NaCl and H2SO4 in your bottle for gassing, if there is no more product in the solvent then do not expect not to have as much smoke as during the first gassing. Just give your jar a big gas (or in the ziplock bag) then close your jar even if you can only see a little smoke.
2-if you are going to use the pipe cutter to collect the lithium strip, avoid cutting in the middle of the battery. Instead, use the pipe cutter at the top of the battery, as top as you can. Then after removing the top of the battery, you just have to peel like a banana. This is to avoid tearing the plastic film that wraps the lithium. One time, I had to use 5 liters of naphta to recover the lithium because I opened my battery in the middle and it tore the plastic film that protects the lithium. the bottom part of the battery refused to come out because it was stuck.I wasted 4 hours of time doing the manipulation in a bucket filled with naphtha

I'm counting on member for advice and sorry for google English translation
Thanks]]> Pseudoephedrine extraction from Fexofenadine/PSE Brand Name (2020) https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26647/pseudoephedrine-extraction-from-fexofenadine-pse-brand-name-2020 Sat, 03 Oct 2020 04:22:01 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26647@/bbs/discussions Here goes:

Materials:

12hr Fexofenadine/pseudoephedrine (120mg PSE) BRAND NAME ONLY
Xylene
Dry Acetone*
Dry Methanol*
Plate
Small ceramic bowl
Hotplate
Collander
Paper towels
Spoon
Funnel
Coffee filters

*: It's of the utmost importance that your solvents, save for Xylene which is usually very dry to begin with, have been dessicated with dried Magnesium Sulfate. It will not work well if you don't take the time to do this. I don't use molecular sieves because of the contaminants like clay etc that end up in my solvents.

++Don't perform this procedure over an open flame for fucks sake++

1) punch all your tablets out into your collander. Rinse all tablets under faucet until white side of bilayer tablet is totally dissolved and down the drain. All you will have left is the yellow half of the tablet. Water can't touch the pse, don't worry. It's suspended in some kind of wax matrix that we are about to deal with.

2) thoroughly dry each remaining tablet half and put in a ceramic bowl. Pour enough xylene into the bowl to cover the pills.

3) place bowl on hotplate and set for medium heat. Stir often. you will see the xylene slowly turning yellow, and eventually the waxy half tablets will be just white powder on the bottom of the bowl, and the now very yellow xylene will have dissolved all the wax.
It's very important that NONE of the wax remains after this step, so do not move on if there are any recognizable pills still in the bowl, they should all be just powder.

4) carefully decant the wax laden xylene and return bowl with white powder to hotplate. Make sure you decant this shit somewhere you can make a mess, this xylene is basically molten wax at this point and quickly cools to form a waxy mess wherever it drips.

5) let the pill mass fully dry, then add dry acetone to the bowl, covering the top of the tablets. Heat the mixture for about 5-7 mins stirring constantly. The acetone will be cloudy. Decant it, and allow pill mass to dry same as before.

6) add a few ml of dry methanol to the remaining pill mass in the bowl, and swirl vigorously. Decant this liquid thru a coffee filter in a funnel, into a cup and then pour it onto a dinner plate. Repeat this two more times to ensure maximum yield.

7) put the methanol laden plate on your hotplate on medium heat. Occasionally swirl the mixture around the plate to prevent burning and speed up the evaporation. Once it's dry, this crystalline substance can be scraped up off the plate, admired, and thrown into a one pot, causing the fuel to actually go black for once, since it's not full of birch killing polymers!

I don't know what the purity of the resulting "pseudoephedrine" is, but I do know that it makes some clean lovely ass dope, and most of the inhibitors, tamper resistant polymers and other nonsense is clearly gone. Enjoy, and please make sure, if you share this method elsewhere, that you NEVER publish the brand name of the pills. This will ensure that this method works for as long as possible.

The resulting PSE can be further purified via A/B extraction and/or recrystallization, though I've never bothered, as I am a one pot bee

]]> Lightsail, dark energy and meth, oh my!!! https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26646/lightsail-dark-energy-and-meth-oh-my Mon, 31 Aug 2020 14:05:34 +0000 Spurious Generalities wurfgurf 26646@/bbs/discussions A shout out to all you ex patriots of TOTSE.com https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25236/a-shout-out-to-all-you-ex-patriots-of-totse-com Sat, 05 Sep 2015 08:09:50 +0000 Spurious Generalities bornkiller 25236@/bbs/discussions
This goes out to any ex totse.com members and even friends and families of these deceased totseans. (Basically anyone who knows shit) I could really use your help in finding out who they were and a pic would be a welcomed bonus. (But not really a necessity)

I realise many of us have chosen different paths since Jeff slammed the temple doors in our faces. I also realise some of us have issues with the other. What I was hoping for is, we could set aside our differences just for this project. Hell! You don’t need to stick around after this. It’s all good. I just need information to get this shit on its way and your help would be invaluable.

We basically know totse was made up of an online culture we’ve learned from, we embraced, made friends and met some pretty fucked up individuals. It was a society of social misfits, intellects, attention whores and even the mentally insecure. The deceased members sacrificed and gave a part of their lives for the culture we shared, and I feel like giving something back, not just for their sake but also for the memory of the temple itself.

I remember there were threads created on various forums such as totse and zoklet but this shit's now history, unless someone captured it then that would be fucking awesome. (I think there was a thread here as well Dfg but I can't find it)

Fuck all so far but here's 2 to kick shit off:

Both fucking awesome dudes.

yttr_man

ArmMerchant

]]> I got sponsored in the end, Thank you remadE! https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26503/i-got-sponsored-in-the-end-thank-you-remade Thu, 28 Mar 2019 18:36:09 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 26503@/bbs/discussions

Miss you brother. ]]> Pseudoephedrine and ephedrine in my country looks like... https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25511/pseudoephedrine-and-ephedrine-in-my-country-looks-like Thu, 11 Jan 2018 17:59:15 +0000 Spurious Generalities wurfgurf 25511@/bbs/discussions Question about a dream https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26643/question-about-a-dream Wed, 10 Jun 2020 13:59:37 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26643@/bbs/discussions Methamphetamine via Ammonia & Lithium [Published] https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/18985/methamphetamine-via-ammonia-lithium-published Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:30:55 +0000 Spurious Generalities Docta 18985@/bbs/discussions Before we get going on the fun stuff lets talk a little about the reaction, the chemicals and there relationship to one and other.
The ammonia’s job is to melt the lithium & act as an amine , try not to be excessive with it. In the reaction below it will be in excess because of the small amount of pseudo to be reduced. The rule of thumb is 250 ml of ammonia for the first 4 lithium strips & 100 ml for every 4 strips after that. It’s possible to do with less but these aren’t reagent grade chemicals.
There must always be enough lithium present in the ammonia to reduce the pseudo.
The ratios are 1 AA battery strip for every 7 grams of Ephedrine or Pseudoephedrine as a salt.
Some say put the pseudo in fist; some say put the lithium in fist. This reaction will have the lithium in fist.
When the lithium is added to ammonia it terns blue & is smooth on stirring, When adding the pseudo if after vigorous stirring the ammonia becomes thick or the blue color fades stop adding pseudo because there is not enough lithium present to reduce any more.
This is very important when doing big reductions.
The Ephedrine or Pseudoephedrine must be dry of all moisture; this reduction is very susceptible to degradation, SO NO WATER OK!!
The lab equipment has bean chosen for ease of acquisition & reuse

Safety first.

Clandestine laboratories often have individuals untrained in the handling of dangerous chemicals, so be careful.
This synthesis has risk of poison gas, explosion & fire.
The handling of anhydrous ammonia is an extraordinarily dangerous activity.
The liquid is extremely cold & the vapor is highly volatile. Contact of the liquid or vapor with the skin, eyes or mucus membranes can scare for life so be careful.

The Shopping List

LAB

Chem. Gloves that go up to the elbow.
Full face respirator with relevant filters.
* Docta often uses an emergency miner’s respirator that fits in the mouth & a glass lens scuba mask like the ones on old James Bond movies.
Bucket of water as a safety wash.
Pyrex jug. 500ml (reaction vessel)
Pot from the kitchen that the Pyrex jug fits in, (acetone bath)
Separation funnel. 500ml
Oven baking tray.
Shot glasses (6)
Glass steering rod.
Glass beer or Coke bottles, (6) (just because there handy)
Tee strainer.
Plastic funnel. (Glass if possible)
Coffee filters.
Portable cooler, (to put the dry ice in)
Tools to strip batteries, (mini pliers & wire cutters)
Garden weed sprayer, (6Ltr) (HCI gas generator)
* the one with the pressure relief valve on one side a hose on the other & a hand pump on the top. Make shore the pump can be disassembled.
Coffee mug
PVC fitting (for the gas bottle)
Clear plastic hose (1m) long about 12mm OD
Roll of paper towel.

CHEMICALS

Anhydrous ammonia, (bottle of gas)
AA Lithium Batteries. (4)
Acetone.
Xylene
Ephedrine or Pseudoephedrine. (28g)
Toluene.
Dry ice, (little pellets not the bricks)
Hydrochloric acid, HCI, (strongest you can find)
Sulphuric acid, H2SO4, (strongest you can find)
Sodium hydroxide, NaOH (caustic soda)
Sea salt crystals
Ice (H2O)
Distilled water (DH2O)

SHOWTIME

Give everything a good clean before start up.
Rinse the glassware with acetone.
Get hold of a PVC irrigation fitting that will reduce the gas bottle out let down to take the clear plastic hose.
Now stand the gas bottle in a tub of ice & water to chill. Or stick it in the freezer.

LITHIUM BATTERIES

Get the coffee mug & fill it with Xylene.
Get the batteries & the tools.
Take your battery and break off the top:
If you are just beginning, the best thing to do now is peel that sticky label off enough where you can see what you are doing.
Now get something to grasp onto the "lip" and break it off.
You should come up with 4 little pieces (2 silver and 2 plastic rings)
Being careful not to let any metal stay in contact (tools touching the silver parts or crimping some together); start taking sections of the casing and start pulling away. If the battery begins to heat up and you can't find where anything is in contact, throw it in your mug so it won't ignite.
Take a pair of needle nose pliers and start rolling each section down like you were
"Peeling" a banana.
Keep doing this until you are able to completely remove the casing. On the side at the bottom there will be a silver strip. Completely remove it by getting a good grip and pulling it out.
Do not uncoil then just drop them in the coffee mug for later.

Warning on the storage of Lithium -
Using the wrong solvent (especially halogenated and protic solvents) can and will lead to fires and possible explosions. Safe solvents include dry toluene, xylene, pentane/hexane/heptane, as well as pure petroleum ether or naphta (if you are unsure about the purity, use something else!).

REACTION

Get the pot and the Pyrex jug.
With the jug in the pot, pack the gap between them with dry ice then pore acetone onto the dry ice. There will be a bit of froth & bubble as the temperature equalizes.
Get the baking try and the shot glasses.
Put about 10mm of Xylene in the try, and then unroll the batteries. Find the end of the wrapping and start to unroll. It might be like a roll of tape getting started and try to strip into sections so be sure and get it to where it unrolls even. When you get it unrolled you will have a black layer, 2 white ones with a dull silver one in between them. This is your lithium and will start to heat up as it is exposed to air.
Lay the strips in the try & hold then under with the shot glasses.
Go & get the gas bottle out of the tub & give it a quick wipe dry.
Put it up side down next to the pot with the jug in it.
Now make shore all skin is covered, respirator on, gloves on & eyes protected.
With one hand hold the hose in the jug & put the other hand on the gas valve, slowly open the valve. Fill the jug up to the 250ml make printed on the side & shut the valve.
Put the gas bottle the right way up away from the work area, check the valve is closed.
OK, now the genie is out of the bottle so take care. If there is a splash & it gets on you, just poor some water on it. The most important thing to remember is don’t panic.
There is plenty of time so don’t rush.
Paper towel & stirring rod at the ready, brake a ¼ strip of lithium of, quickly pat dry with the paper towel & drop it in the ammonia, stir for 10 to 20 seconds then repeat until all the strips of lithium are dissolved.
Now go get the pseudo from that clean dry place that it is stored.
Slowly add the pseudo over about 10 min stirring vigorously.
Don’t add to quickly there is a big difference in temperature hear so allow it to equalize.
Give it a real good stir right at the end.
Remove the jug from the ice bath & stir for a further 10 min.
Allow the jug to stand for 15 min or so to let the ammonia evaporate.
When it’s almost all evaporated add about 100 ml of DH2O, (3 shot glasses).
There will be a bit of froth & bubble, after that add about 70 ml of toluene, (2 shot glasses). Give it a quick stir, and then let it stand & come up to room temperature.

SEPARATION

Now add to the jug NaOH. ¼ teaspoon at a time & stir, keep doing this till on more bubbles come up from the water later.
Get one of the bottles, put the funnel in it. Hold the tee strainer over the funnel & pore the contents of the jug through the tee strainer down the funnel into the bottle.
Grab the bottle put a thumb over the top & give it a shake, like shaking up a can of spray paint.
Set up the separation funnel, make shore the tap is shut. Pore the contents of the bottle into the separation funnel.
Go wash out the Pyrex jug dry it & rinse with acetone, allow to dry then put 70 ml of toluene in the jug.
Go back to the separation funnel, put the jug under the sep funnel, let the water run out of the sep funnel into the jug, from the jug put it in the bottle & shake shake shake .
Pore the contents of the bottle into the separation funnel.
This is called pulling, getting the Meth out of the water onto the toluene.
Four (4) pulls will do. Repeat above steps.
Now there should be a separation funnel with about 300 ml of toluene in it.
On the side of the sep funnel there will be little squiggly lines of water between the glass & the toluene, get the stirring rod put it in through the top of the sep funnel & push the lines of water down to the bottom. Get all the water out.
(An optional extra is to dry the toluene with oven baked Epsom salt).

GASING OUT

Grab the weed sprayer & pull it to bits. There will be assembly lubricants on the internal parts so wash everything with acetone.
Throw away the trigger gun and all metal parts.
Put the sprayer back together, but leave out the pressure relief valve just stick some paper in the hole & pinch it over with the pliers. We wont it to leek little. Also pinch down the end of the hose to make it smaller.
Clean out the Pyrex jug & rinse with acetone.
Put the 300 ml of toluene/Meth in the jug.
Put gloves & respirator on.
Open the top of the spryer, drop in about 500g of sea salt followed by (½) shot glass of H2SO4, and then (½) shot glass of HCI & putt the lid on the sprayer.
Gloves off, respirator stays on, pick up the sprayer & lightly slosh it around kind of like sloshing wine around in a wine glass, it should have the sound of the salt scratching lightly on the bottom. (Do not shake it up & down).
Put the end of the hose down in the bottom of the jug of toluene & pump the sprayer.
That white vapor is HCI gas it will tern the good stuff into a salt, that’s the white gunk that stating to show in the toluene.
After it had a good gassing, go get a coffee filter put it in the funnel, put the funnel in a clean bottle & pore the toluene trough the filter, and give it a good chance to drain.
Put the coffee filter with the stuff in it aside to dry.
Pore the toluene out of the bottle back into the jug, gas again & filter. Continue gassing & filtering until all that comes out is yellowy brown slime that means all the Meth has been recovered.

Wash & recrystalize.]]> Just an update for old friends https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26512/just-an-update-for-old-friends Sat, 16 Nov 2019 09:38:32 +0000 Spurious Generalities Paco 26512@/bbs/discussions
Years ago I tried to make a &T themed FPS game.

Someone once said "you mean Postal 2?"

Just wanted y'all to know that Postal 2 is 99 cents on steam right now.

I'll buy it for anyone who wants it.

Miss you all.]]> my contribution to the wonderful world of s&b guides https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26535/my-contribution-to-the-wonderful-world-of-s-b-guides Mon, 30 Mar 2020 15:12:51 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26535@/bbs/discussions
https://txt.fyi/+/f4d94069/

also, it will be updated and added to over time]]> Lock DOWN! https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26531/lock-down Fri, 20 Mar 2020 07:11:23 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 26531@/bbs/discussions
Currently in lock down in PH, but still got work, the miracles of working online. I approved some of the pending users. I apologize for the delay.

Make yourself at home, just don't spam and enjoy.

And please stay safe!]]> Chemical Collective review https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26532/chemical-collective-review Mon, 23 Mar 2020 10:50:24 +0000 Spurious Generalities ashleighbyshea 26532@/bbs/discussions JoePedo? https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26533/joepedo Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:29:17 +0000 Spurious Generalities Kev 26533@/bbs/discussions Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story 1.1 Completely updated https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25486/shake-n-bake-method-enso-s-story-1-1-completely-updated Wed, 30 Aug 2017 13:06:42 +0000 Spurious Generalities enso 25486@/bbs/discussions

Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story 1.1
Completely updated

Disclaimer

:

The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

So why am I writing this?

• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.

• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes

• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelved (anally administered)? Yes

• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.

• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.

• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes

• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.

• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.

• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.

• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:

• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.

• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.

• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.

• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.

Recommended Materials/Tools:

• 1 box 24-hour Sudafed (2.4g Psuedoeffedrine)
• 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide –NaOH)
• 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN) or 180 grams Ammonium Sulphate.
• About 100ml of Diethyl Ether (starter fluid)
• About 200ml of Hexane (CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
• 1 "AA" Energizer Advanced Lithium battery
• 2 Pairs of Plyers
• 1 Medicine syringe/ eye dropper
• 1 Bag of Ice
• Pail/Container
• Box of Ziploc Baggies
• 1 500ml SodaStream Bottle
• 1 Roll of Gorilla Duct Tape
• Can of Acetone
• Blowdryer
• Small Pipe Cutter for Batteries
• 4 Coffee Filters
• Paper towels
• A Mason Jar
• A Pill Crusher\Coffee grinder.
• Small glass jar with lid
•Plastic Funnel
• An Evaporation Plate
• Some Dry Epsom
• A Bottle of isopropyl alcohol

If you want to water titrate you will need:
• Muriatic Acid mixed... [4 Parts Water : 1 Part muriatic acid] after being purchased
• About 4 litres of Distilled Water.

If you would like to gas you will need:
•Some table salt (NaCl)
• A bottle of Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)

Notes about ingredients:

• PSE - Pseudoephedrine HCl should be the only active ingredient whenever possible. Also,
the red 30mg tablets are desirable, because they have less gak to remove.

•NH4NO3 - Obtained from instant cold packs. Beware of urea containing packs, they will not
work. If unsure what you have, open the box. Ingredients are printed on each pack. Generics
tend to work the best. Get them from pharmacies or sport/sporting injury areas of big
stores.

• Lithium - Obtained from lithium batteries. Each AA battery contains approximately .94g of Li
metal. Reacts negatively with hydrogen. Sparks on contact with other metals. Can ignite
spontaneously if not properly handled. Should be kept out of open air and away from any
moisture.

• H2SO4 - Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. Marketed as drain cleaner.
The bottle will say "concentrated sulfuric acid" somewhere on it, and should be inside a
sealed bag on the shelf. If you can't find it in the cleaning section, check the plumbing
section.

• Toluene - Flammable. Harmful vapors. Skin and eye irritant. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the paint thinner section.

• NaOH or lye, caustic soda.
Use solid only. Highly corrosive.
Obtained at a big chain home improvement store. Marketed as drain cleaner. also sold in some supermarkets as caustic soda drain cleaner says on the container “perfect for making soap”

•Acetone - Flammable. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the
paint thinner section.

• Methanol or denatured alcohol - flammable. Obtained from a big chain home improvement store. It will be in the paint thinner section.

• MgSO4 - Regular unscented Epsom salt. Obtained from pharmacies or any big store. It will be in the health and beauty section or the pharmacy area.

Notes about gases produced:

•NaOH and NH4NO3 react to produce ammonia (NH3) gas and H2O. Ammonia gas is
corrosive and damaging to soft tissues. The H2O produced is nominal and does not pose a
safety threat.
• NaCl and H2SO4 react to produce hydrogen chloride (HCl) gas. HCl bonds with water in the
atmosphere, producing smoke-like vapors of hydrochloric acid which is corrosive and an
irritant to soft tissues.

Pre-RXN:

Place your dH2O into the refrigerator.

Preparing anhydrous MgSO4 (dry Epsom):

MgSO4 is a desiccant, meaning it absorbs water. It is used to make solvents anhydrous (without water) as well as gases.

Heat your oven to 400F (204C).
• Line your baking dish with aluminum foil. It gets sticky for a while.
• Pour the whole bag of Epsom salt into the dish. Spread evenly and put in oven.
• Bake for approximately 1.5-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until you are left with a very hard, very dry, chalky, white solid.
• Allow to cool, place in a Ziploc bag, place a towel or something over the bag, and crush the MgSO4 with a hammer. Not too large, but not powder.
• Transfer to a new bag without holes and seal.

Preparing anhydrous Diethyl Ether:

• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with diethyl ether
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.

Preparing anhydrous hexane:

• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with hexane.
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.

Preparing anhydrous acetone:

• Fill a mason jar 1/4 full with anhydrous MgSO4
• Fill the rest of the way with acetone.
• Put on the lid and place in freezer.

Preparing anhydrous methanol:
• Place 5g of anhydrous MgSO4 in a baby food jar.
• Fill the rest of the way with methanol.
• Put on the lid and set aside in a warm place.
(Once the solvent has been dried using MgSO4, it will naturally try to reabsorb the lost moisture by taking it from the atmosphere. Acetone does this rather quickly. Be sure to keep dry solvents in airtight containers.)

Preparing the HCl gas generator:(only if gassing.)

• Rinse and dry the soda bottle and lid.
• Using a drill or utility knife, make a hole in the center of the lid large enough that the
aquarium tubing will fit snugly.
•Cut off around 18in (45cm) of the tubing and attach it to the lid through the hole you made.
(It should be very snug or HCl gas will leak out, and that stuff is pretty nasty.)
• Add 64g NaCl to the bottle and put the lid on.
(I have heard of :bee using damprid instead of salt but I cannot confirm for myself… Water titrating is my thing)
• Set aside for later

RXN Procedure:

1. Heat the Bottom of the Soda Stream bottle with a blowdryer until the glue holding the bottom part to the bottle heats up and you are able to twist the bottom part off of the bottle.

2. Gorilla Tape The Bottom of the Bottle, an about an inch up the side of the bottle, and the seams going down the bottle.

3. Add about 100 ml of Ether and around 200 ml of hexane to a baggie.

4. Water Wash this Fuel Mix twice, and the transfer the fuel to the Soda Stream Bottle.

5. Fill the Pail/Container with Ice about 1/2 way and add a about 100mm of water.
• The colder the better. Some bees use an ice shaver to shave the ice into snow like powder.
• Now put the crushed ice into a pitcher about 3/4 full... then add a couple of inches of water to make a ice bath.

6. Put the SS Bottle with the Fuel into the ice-water bath, and leave it to allow fuel to get cold.
(A good rule of thumb to follow is to put SS Bottle with Fuel in the Freezer about an hour or so before performing the rxn.)

7. When fuel is nice an cold, remove bottle from ice water, but keep it accessible.

8. Crush and Powder the PSE Pills and put the powder in a container or baggie for later.

9. Remove guts from battery and leave them submerged in some fuel.

10. Add 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate or 180 grams of Ammonium Sulphate to the SS Bottle.

11. Add 90 grams naoh (lye) to the SS Bottle.

12. Tear the Li Strip in "stamp" size flat pieces or smaller and add them to Bottle.

13. Add about 5ml distilled water to SS Bottle, quickly screw the cap on, and swirl the bottle to "re-coat" the Li with fuel.
• Cold = Ammonia Gas Condenses to Ammonia Liquid at lower pressures. AN + LYE still react even in the cold temp because of the addition of water.
Therefore, easy to create Ammonia Liquid and start the bronzing quickly.
(This is not needed but is recommended)

14. While the reaction is "Rolling" violently for the first 5-10 minutes, let the pressure in the bottle build until you cannot depress with the "thumb test", but perform small vents as needed.
(Thumb tests are simple.
A: Before starting find the easiest spot to push in with both thumbs remember this spot for later.
B: this is where we will test pressure by pushing with both thumbs.
C: If you are unable to push with both thumbs it's time to release pressure)

15. Depending on the strength of the reaction... you could see initial lithium bronzing within the first 2-3 minutes.

16. When the reaction Starts to slow, let pressure build to your "Thumb Pressure Test" capacity, and then submerge the bottle in the Ice Water Bath and Leave it for about 10-15 minutes or so.
• Keep an eye of the pressure to be safe.
•If your ice bath is not cold enough to quickly slow the reaction, be sure to vent bottle as needed to prevent bottle failure.

17. After 15 minutes, you will probably have at least 1/2 of the Lithium “Bronzed” (Dark Bronze Flakes at this point), and the bottle will be depressurized considerably, and little to no reaction will be happening.

18. Shake the bottle
• If you AN/NAOH Reactants have become big hard clumps at the bottom... Shake the bottle until you break them up.
• Worst comes to worst the reactants will "de-clump" later when we heat and shake...

19. Begin heating the bottle with blowdryer and shaking it, to re-initiate reaction.

20. Perform small vents as needed while raising temperature to get the reaction rolling again.
(As the fuel gets hot, you should see the Li Bronze flakes convert to Gold BB's and/or a Gold puddle.)

21. Once Fuel is Hot and reaction is rolling strong again... Build pressure to limit and submerge into Ice bath one more time for another 10-15 minutes.
(After removing from Ice Bath again, You should have 80%-100% Li Dissolved.)

22. Remove Bottle Cap, add PSE, and Add some recharge Reactants if you like.
• I always add about half of the original amount of AN and NAOH with the PSE.

23. Shake the bottle and you should have black fuel instantly.
(you may know this as “chocolate milk” from my previous posts)

24. Begin heating the Fuel and shaking the bottle.
(At this point it's best to keep the fuel as hot as possible and maintain pressure as high as possible.)

25. Continue Heating and Shaking (small vents as needed) until the fuel goes completely clear within about 15-20 seconds after shaking it, or until you have absolutely no Lithium left at all (Meaning that your lithium losses were too great and you did not have enough to reduce all of the suzy)

• DO NOT get in a hurry. Sometimes this reduction phase can take upto 40 minutes.
(As the saying goes “Great things come to those who wait.”)

Filtering:
( WARNING: This is the most dangerous step in the entire process. You will be exposing molten Li to open air for an extended period of time. Be quick and efficient. Puddle Lithium will ignite if left in open air. Do your best to keep as much of it in the bottle as you can. Some will inevitably make it through. Don't worry. As long as you keep it wet with the solution it won't ignite.)
(This is just a quick, rough filter to separate the solution from the solid ingredients and reduce the risk of fire. A more thorough filter will be performed once the reaction vessel is secured.)

1.. Take a ziploc bag and seal it shut with air trapped inside.

2. Now press firmly with both hands on the front and back of the bag and listen for leaks.

3. Open the bag and line your pitcher with it.
Check another bag for leaks and add a small amount of hexane to it.
(Your filtered crap will go in this bag.)

4. VERY slowly vent all of the pressure from the SS bottle.

5. Using a funnel, filter the solution into the bag inside the pitcher.

6. As soon as all the solution has been retrieved, cap the bottle and place in the freezer.
• This will stop the RXN
(The lid can be used as a makeshift screen to help trap unwanted Lithium and such from getting to the filter. This filter will contain molten Lithium. Be careful! Liquid lithium tends to be more volatile than strips!)

• As soon as used filters are not needed, put them in the bag with the small amount of Hexane.
(Storing/coating the lithium in hexane will keep it from igniting.)

•Make sure to put all the filter papers and anything with stuff on it from inside the bottle into the bag with the hexane and seal it.

•Put it in the freezer as well.

Filtering (after securing lithium).

1. Stuff 2 cotton balls into the neck of your funnel.

2. Place 2 filters into the funnel above the cotton and add 64g of MgSO4.

3. Place 2 more filters on top of the MgSO4.

4. Line your pitcher with another bag and filter the solution into it using the prepared funnel.

5. Repeat 1,2,and 3.

6. Check the pH and be sure it is 13+. If it is below 12.4, base it again by adding NaOH.
• Once the pH is at 13+ re-filter.
• Seal the bag. Discard filter crap.
(It is VERY important that the solution be as basic as possible when the water is added. If the pH is too low (high), the meth freebase will slide back into the water layer and you will throw it out without ever knowing it.)

The solution should be crystal clear, like water. If it is cloudy or you see crud floating in it,
filter it until you don't.

Water washing the solution:
dH2O (distilled water) is used to wash the solution of sulfur impurities.
•These impurities are what give shooters that massive head rush.
(If smoking DON'T skip this or you WILL have at least some brown residue in you're flute)

1. Add ice cold dH2O equal to half the volume of the solution and seal the bag.

2. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds.

3. Allow to separate.
(The top layer will be the freebase solution, bottom is the waste water.)

4. Decant (pour off) the water layer and discard.
• Easy way to do this is simply cut the corner of the bag off and allow the water to drain out, then pinch it shut when it gets to the solution, and then pour solution into a fresh bag.
(Adding water causes the pH to slowly head toward neutral, so best to check that pH again.)

5. Re-base if needed (shouldn't need to).
Repeat 1-5. Another 4 or 5 times
•VERY IMPORTANT: Water wash the fuel a good rule of thumb is to do 4 or 5 very good washes of the fuel or until the fuel barely clouds the water anymore. (This makes a world of difference.)

If you want to water titrate:

1. Save about 25ml of fuel in a separate container to use as "Bring-Back" fuel while titrating.
(You can thank Werner Karl “Heisenberg” for the bring back fuel idea)

2. Add about 15ml of distilled water to the clean fuel.

3. Add Muriatic/water mix SLOWLY (1-3 drops at a time) and shake until you see the fuel go cloudy and the layers have difficulty separating (this indicates the solution has become acidic).

4. Add the "Bring-Back" fuel to raise the PH back to neutral or slightly above.

5. Separate, drain & Collect Water, and Evaporate.
(When water/Meth mix thickens, Pour a splash of dry Acetone on the plate and continue evaporate to crash out the crystals.)

If you want to gas:

1.Add 3 capfuls of H2SO4 to the soda bottle with the NaCl (salt).

2. Quickly screw on the lid tightly. Pinch the hose to prevent gas from escaping.

3. Open just the corner of the bag with the freebase solution and gently squeeze the soda bottle to force the gas into the bag.
(Once there is a good amount in the bag, seal it.)

4. Agitate the solution inside the bag to maximize exposure. The solution will start to become cloudy at first, like milk.
(This is the gas raising the pH of the solution and starting to drop the meth HCl in solid form.)

5. Hit it with the gas again, seal and shake the bag.
(It should start to look like a snow globe in there)

6. Hit it with the gas seal and shake the bag again, allow to separate.
(If solution is still cloudy, continue gassing until it is crystal clear when it separates)
Hint: If the gas starts to sputter out, it can be refreshed by simply adding more NaCl and H2SO4.

7. Stuff 2 cotton balls into the neck of your funnel.

8. Place 2 filters into the funnel above the cotton and add 1/2c (64g) of MgSO4.

9. Place 2 more filters on top of the MgSO4.
Line your pitcher with another bag and filter the solution into it using the prepared funnel.

(The stuff in the filter, that's what all this is for.)

10. Squeeze as much of the solution out of the filter (that's full of good stuff) as you can without ripping it.

11. Twist the top of the filter closed so nothing escapes, grab a towel and fold it lengthwise until it is about the size of your wet dope filter.

12. Roll the filter tightly in the towel and step on it.
(Put all the weight of your heel on the towel to force out remaining solution.)

13. Retrieve the dope from the towel and open the filter. Set it down and allow it to dry.
Scrape off the filter onto something.

Conclusion or not?

This product is completely usable at this point or you can recrystallize to further purify the little crystals and form it into bigger crystals/shards.

Recrystallization:

1.Crush meth into a fine powder.

2. Put it into a little glass jar.

3. Measure out 240ml of your dry methanol and put it in the microwave.

4. Microwave it 10 seconds.

5. Microwave it 10 more seconds.
(Watch for boil over.)

6. Once it is just hot enough to start boiling, remove it from the microwave and add to the jar containing the dope with your medicine syringe/ eye dropper until the dope dissolves.

7. Add hot methanol dropwise until the solution turns clear.

8. Filter out any solids. These are impurities.
Place the lid loosely on the jar to prevent foreign objects and put somewhere warm.

As the solution slowly cools, the meth becomes more and more concentrated in the methanol, making it over saturated.

Crystals then form and grow until all the meth is used, leaving any remaining impurities at surface level or in the remaining methanol.

Don't disturb the solution while the crystals are forming.
(Disturbing the solution breaks the forming crystals apart, forcing them to start over.)
• Disturbed solution = smaller crystals.

•Freezer cooling = small crystals and clean
•Fridge cooling = medium crystals and cleaner
•Room temp cooling = big crystals and even cleaner.
(The slower you cool down the solution the bigger the crystals and cleaner the meth because the when the meth is reconnecting with its mates in there if this happens to quickly impurity can get stuck or ruin the structure of the crystal.)

9. Allow to cool/evap for around 4-6 hours.
Chisel off the crystals and swish the whole thing around to make sure you get everything.

10. Filter out the crystals. Place remaining fluid onto an evaporation tray and evaporate to catch any remaining product that didn't crystallize.

11. Rinse with dry, cold acetone.

12.Allow to dry.

That's all folks
P.s
This is a work in progress and is not completely finished but is still usable(readable for the average bee).
Still need to
• Add some more hints.
• Extra formatting.
• Add some links ect
• Maybe some more pictures if you're lucky.
Thank you for youre patience]]> Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25367/shake-n-bake-method-enso-s-story Sat, 07 May 2016 12:38:59 +0000 Spurious Generalities enso 25367@/bbs/discussions Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story

Disclaimer:

The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

So why am I writing this?

• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.

Recommended Materials/Tools:
The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient airtight container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equal or better in quality.

• 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine)
(Can be Sudafed or any of the generics)
(Depending on the store and type, costs about $10 - $20)
• 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
(Get crystals not liquid)
(DON’T USE DRAINO FFS)
(Sold as drain cleaner)
• 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3 – AN)
(from instant cold packs)
(Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.)
(You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so)
!!!!! BIG HINT !!!!! (if you find it hard to find you can use AS((Ammonium sulphate)) just at a different ratio and that is (1.1 = 90 grams in this situation) and is easily bought as fertilizer)
• About 100ml of Dyethel Ether.
(WASHED Starter Fluid)
• About 200ml of Hexane.
(CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
(I used Naphtha for a while, but it is hard keeping it warm enough.)
(Google it. Or I can for you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=products+with+Hexane+in+it)
• isopropanol alcohol
• 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
(can get 3 bottles for $15)
(I highly recommend these they can withstand a fuck load of pressure, they normally be used to make soda)
• 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Batteries.
(Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through)
• A couple bottles of bottled water
• Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called . hydrochloric acid –HCl)
• Some Acetone
(most hardware stores stock it as paint thinner)
• A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters
(Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries)
(hardware store)
• A couple pairs of plyers
(One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the center out of the battery)
• A bunch of coffee filters
• A couple of cotton balls
• A blow-dryer
• A grocery bags to use as a trash bag
• A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I heard slide seals are great)
• 2 Eye Droppers
• Something to test PH
(Ph strips for a pool work wonders)
• A Mason Jar
• A sewing needle
• A plate to use as an evaporation plate
• A Plastic Funnel
• A blender
• 1/4 Cup measuring cup
• Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)
(I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia. IT . SMELLS REALLY BAD.)
• Honestly, use common sense, do not store your lithium in or around any water or go doing this outdoors in the rain that’s just stupid. You will catch fire, Please, safety first.

I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of things to get up front, but don’t get discouraged. It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $500 a gram where I’m from, so you will have about $750 to $1000 street value worth of product for each cook. This bee thinks that’s is a pretty good Return on Investment.

OK, Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPE” of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy. Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start. This process is EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing.

Basic Procedure Outline:
1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an Hour or 2.
2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars
3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full seal them up with the lid and place them both in the freezer
4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry.

5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily organized and accessible in the work area.
6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
7. Measure out 90 grams of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.
8. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 60 grams or 90 grams of the AS put it into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid.
9. Pour your Hexane into a plastic baggie and seal, and Put it aside for the next step
12. Removing Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
Hints: (Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the inside of the battery as much as you can.
(You could always use a steak knife or something sharp to cut around the battery then just pull . apart)
c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
• Tightly hold the second end of the battery.
• Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through.
• While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery.
• Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing.
• Place the center directly into the Hexane in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible.
• Repeat this process with the second battery.
• Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it.

13. Add the Tupperware container of AN or AS to the RV using the funnel.
14. Add the Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel.
15. Add the Dyethel Ether to the RV using the funnel.
16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery insides:
• Open the Ziploc baggie containing the solvent and the battery insides.
• Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery insides while keeping them submerged the entire time
• Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the black and shiny silver strip)
• Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery insides into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
• Repeat the process for the 2nd roll of insides.
• Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV. (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
• Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV.
17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel.
18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV.
19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…
20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV.
21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure.
22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and remember where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook.

23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant pressure relief:
• These Sodastream bottles are really strong and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing (used for carbonation of liquids to make softdrink) , so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together.
• The first pressure release will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time.
• After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE.

24. When pressure reaches the threshold, release the pressure in the reaction vessel (soda stream bottle).
• Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressure escape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap.
• There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV… this is a Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting.
• You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want.

25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well.
• If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either releasing the pressure too early, too often, or both. No big deal, Just be observant and learn.

26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process.

27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
• The color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles.
28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap

29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding a little bit more lye and AN (or SA) to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong.
30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV.
31. Shake the hell out of the bottle for about 10 seconds.
32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes.
33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
• It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li.
• You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles.
• This color change will likely happen many times.
• Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…
34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45 seconds, your cook is complete.
• You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze.
• If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time.
35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure.
36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters.
37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
• Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
• As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
• As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
• Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar.
• Once the filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters.
• Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them.

38. Dump the contents of the reaction vessel into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.
39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.

Water Pull
• If you want to do gas Titration, please do it. Water pull is what I like.
•If you want to gas I will add it to the end of this write up.

40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel in the Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.
• Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head outta this world when you get ahold of some good Banger’s Dope.

41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack.
42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal.
43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel.
44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time.

45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute.
47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
• Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer

48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
• Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
• When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
(It’s very easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well)
(I want you all to do this part well so you can join me in the quest for waterpulling)

49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate.
(Pyrex dish if you like)
50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar.
• Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate.

51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate.
52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate.
53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile.
54. You can abuse as you wish at this point (But this is dirty dope, and I advise you clean it up)
• The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle.
• You can continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like,
(not necessary, but I would recommend it)

Acetone Wash

55. Allow meth to completely dry.
56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass
57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…

58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth

59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass

ReCrystalization

60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass

61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling

62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass

63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.

64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards

65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing

66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…

• You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.

…..That’s all folks…..
Next story: ensos one pot fire extinguisher METHod.
Followed by: RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way.

Edit : just some formatting]]> Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod story https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25369/ensos-fire-extinguisher-one-pot-method-story Tue, 10 May 2016 02:54:35 +0000 Spurious Generalities enso 25369@/bbs/discussions Enso's Fire Extinguisher One Pot METHod.

Disclaimer:

The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

So why am I writing this?

• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…

• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.
• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes
• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes
• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.
• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.
• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes
• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.
The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.
• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.
• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.
Here’s what this write up will do for you:
• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.
• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.
• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.
• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.

Supplies/Materials

● 2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine
● 90 grams NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide or Lye)
● 60 grams NH4NO3 (Ammonium Nitrate Crystals)
or 90 grams Ammonium Sulphate
● 600 ml of non polar solvent
Hint: I know a bee that has found 400 ml hexane and 200 ml of Diethel Ether to work best.
● 1 Dry Chemical steel or stainless steel 1L Fire Extinguisher.
● 1 Lithium AA Battery.
● A few bottles of bottled water (h2o).
● Muriatic Acid also known as HCl (Hydrochloric Acid).
Hint: This will end up being mixed 20% HCl 80% h2o (water).
● Acetone.
● A small PVC pipe cutting tool (For easier removal of your lithium).
● A couple of coffee filters/filter papers.
● Paper towels.
● 2 Pairs of plyers.
● A Hairdryer/blowdryer.
● A couple 1 quart plastic baggies.
● A few rubbish bags.
● An eye dropper.
● 7 to 10 feet of 1/4 inch of rubber hose.
● A mason jar/glass jar.
● 2 five gallon buckets.
● A glass plate to use as a evaporation plate.
● A pair of scissors.
● A plastic funnel.
● A blender.
Hint: A blender is not needed, it is just used to crush pills quickly.
● Scales.
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE :
● A few shot glasses
● Epsom salt
● Isopropanol alcohol or Methanol
● Any little sealable glass jar ( Baby food jars work well )
OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO GAS INSTEAD OF WATER TITRATE :
● Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
● Table salt (NaCl)
● 1 ordinary soft drink bottle w/lid
● 1/4" (6.35cm) diameter aquarium tubing
● Hand drill or utility knife

Procedure Outline:

OPTIONAL IF YOU WANT TO ACETONE WASH AND RECRYSTALLIZE:
1. Place a layer of epsom salt onto a oven tray and bake inn the oven at 200*c (400*f) for about an hour or two.

2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of dry salt into each of the little glass jars.

3. Add acetone to one glass jars and isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the other, both about 3/4 full, cap them and place them both in the freezer.

Fire Extinguisher Preperation

1. Take the fire extinguisher outside.
● Hold it upside down.
● Sqeeze the handle to release pressure in small presses untill the pressure guage reads "0 psi".
● Holding the extinguisher "right side up", spray the powder contents into a rubbish bag untill there is no longer any pressure to continue spraying.
● Unscrew the entire nozzle and gauge assembly from the fire extinguisher cylinder.
● Remove the long metal rod that is screwed into the fire extinguishers nozzle assembly and throw it away.
● Throw away the rest of the powder in the fire extinguishers cylinder into the rubbish bag.
● Tie up rubbish bag and put aside.
● Clean ALL of the powder out of the cylinder and nozzle assembly.
● Scrub the inside of the cylinder untill no more brown rusty residue can be seen when wiped with a paper towel.

Hint 1: A clothes hanger with paper towel wraped around it works well for this.

Hint 2: Cut a circle piece of steel screen about 1 inch in diameter, jam this into the brass fitting opening leading into the nozzle, this is to stop the reactants from going up into the nozzle.

WARNING: If you do not this properly the meth will come out impure and burn brown ect... YUCK!
● COMPLETELY AND I MEAN COMPLETELY dry the inside of the cylinder and nozzle assembly of any moisture.

Getting Started.

1. Prepare an area to work, clean the work area, and have all tools and materials easily accessible and organised.

2. Put your pse pills into the blender and crush to a fine powder (or crush however), and put them into an airtight container for later.

3. Measure out 90 grams of NaOH (lye) and put in an airtight container for later.

4. Measure out 60 grams of Ammonium Nitrate Crystals
or
90 grams of Ammonium Sulphate, and put it in the airtight container with your pse.

5. Wash your solvent(s)
● Put your 600-700ml of solvent into a plastic baggie.
● Add about 250ml of bottled water to the baggie.
● Shake the hell out of this mix for 3-4 minutes.
● Let the solvent and water layers seperate and settle.
● Using a pin or scissors peirce the bottom corner and drain away dirty water layer.
● Once all the water has drained away drain your solvent into a clean mason/glass jar.

6. Do this wash another time (step 5).

7. Pour about 200ml of the solvent into a clean plastic baggie, and set it aside for storage of your lithium when removed.

8. Fill one of the 5 gallon buckets 3/4 full of boiling hot water.

9. Fill the second 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full with crushed ice, and add water to make it colder.

11. Remove Lithium strip from AA battery.
● Put battery in small pipe cutting tool.
● Tighten screw until the blade is tight against the battery casing.
● Spin the battery a couple of spins.
● Tighten the screw a little more.
● Spin the battery again.
● Continue this untill you feel the blade break through the casing all the way around.
● While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart.
● Discard of the empty end of the battery and with the free plyer grab onto the guts of the battery, pull the guts out and quickly place it into the solvent you put aside earlier, and keep them as submerged as possible.
● Put your clean hands into the solvent and unroll the battery guts while keeping it submerged the entire time.
● Locate the strip of lithium (this will be dull gray looking strip, NOT the black and shiny silver strip)
● Remove the lithium strip while still its submerged in solvent and discard the rest of the guts into a rubbish bag and set aside.
● Now begin tearing the lithium while still submerged in your solvent, into small flat post stamp size pieces, and seal the bag.
Hint: You can also remove a small part of the strip to tear up out of the solvent to make it easier, just be sure to only keep the lithium out of the solvent for a limited time.

12. Add the 60 grams from the airtight container of Nitrate or the Sulphate you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

13. Add the 2.4 grams of PSE you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

14. Add the 400ml of solvent/solvent mix into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

15. Add the remaining 200ml of solvent, and the lithium pieces into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

16. Add the container of NaOH (lye) you put aside earlier into the fire extinguisher using a funnel.

Important Hint for step 17: Be ready to quickly screw the nozzle assembly to fire extinguisher cylinder immediately after adding water, and give the fire extinguisher a swirl to re-coat the lithium pieces with solvent.

17. Add 10ml to 15ml of water to the fire extinguisher.

● The lithium will react with water, and catch fire if left exposed to open air for to long.
● Coating lithium with solvent protects it from water and air.

18. Once the nozzle assembly is tightened securely, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for about 20 seconds.

19. Place the fire extinguisher in the bucket with the boiling hot water.

20. About 5 to 10 minutes later, remove the fire extinguisher from the bucket, shake the hell out of it for about 20 seconds, and put it back in your hot water bucket.

21. Repeat steps 19 and 20 until 30 minutes have passed from the start of the reaction (try to get the pressure up to about 150 to 200psi during the first 30 minutes)

22. Now, shake the hell out of the fire extinguisher for 20 seconds, and then place it in the bucket with ice (or ice shavings) for 5 to 10 minutes.

23. Repeat shaking and ice water bucket for a total o 30 minutes.

24. Attach 1 end of the rubber hose to the fire extinguisher nozzle and run the other end up and though the water trap in the toilet past the water.

25. Use the nozzle handle to vent the pressure from the fire extinguisher in short bursts until pressure reaches 0psi.
Hint: When you lower the pressure to 0 psi, the reaction between the AN (or AS) and NaOH (lye) will kick back up again.

26. Quickly, before pressure in the fire extinguisher builds again, unscrew the nozzle assembly from the cylinder.

27. Prepare the funnel with 1/2 a paper towel folded up stuffed tightly into the stem and 3 or 4 coffee filters in the funnel.
Hint: Instead of paper towel you can use cotton balls stuffed in the stem.

28. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the fire extinguisher into the glass jar/mason jar.
● Pour the reactants from the fire extinguisher into a plastic baggie, snip the corner off the baggie, and squeeze the juice out of the reactants into the jar with the rest of your solvent, then discard the baggie with reactants.
● Once the filters have no more solvent, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much solvent as possible then discard them.
● Remove the paper towel from the funnel, squeeze the solvent from it into the jar, and discard it.

Water Pull (Titration)

Things you need:
h2o (water)
hcl acid
ph strips
glass jar with your solvent/meff

1. Add about 50% of the amount of water to the solvent in the glass jar, put the lid on tight, and shake the hell out of it for about 5 minutes to wash the solvent and remove certain impuritys

2. Dump the water/solvent mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from a peg or pin it from the top corner of the bag

3. Allow the layers to seperate (solvent on top, dirty water on the bottom) cut a little hole in the bottom corner of the baggie with a sewing needle/pin and allow the waste water to drain into any container for throwing out later

4. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for a fresh glass jar and collect the fuel

5. Repeat step 1-4 one more times
Hint: do not do this step (water wash) if you are going to bang your meff as the sulfur impurities are what give you that initial rush when you get some good shooting meth (i dont use needles but i have done my research)

6. After the 2nd water wash, pour the solvent from the glass jar into a plastic baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.

7. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of hcl acid to the solvent/water mix, shake it around for a minute or so.

8. Let the mix settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH.
hint: Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water below the solvent layer.

9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 until PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
hint: when you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop at a time and retest PH after each drop.

10. Let the layers separate, use a pin/needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water onto your evaporation plate.
hint: pyrex dishes work perfect.

11. Pinch a hole in the corner of the baggie when the water drained and then drain the fuel back into the glass jar.
hint: don’t let any fuel drain onto your plate

12. Repeat the process again on your solvent.
hint: this time it will only need 2-3 drops of hcl acid

13. use a blowdryer and if you want a hotplate or non gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a layer of meth and then just scrape your meth off the plate using a razor.

● The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns clean in a melt test.
● You can then do a recrystallization from there if you like, its not necessary, but will remove impurity and you will get "shards" not powder.

Acetone Wash

1. Allow meth to completely dry.

2. Crush meth crysals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass.

3. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass untill the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 to 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate.

4. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain off the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impuritys.

5. Scrap the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, razor, or whatever, then clean the shot glass.

ReCrystalization

1. Scape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add to a clean shot glass.
2. Use the clean eyedropper to transfer the non salt portion of the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) from the jar in the freezer into a glass jar that you can fit in a pot.
Hint: boil water and put it in a container place your jar in the boiling water until your isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) starts boiling.
SAFTEY WARNING: REMEMBER, NO FLAMES GUYS!

3. Once boiling use an clean eyedropper to slowly add the boiling isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to the meth in the shotglass.
● Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
● Stir, the meth will dissolve, and anything that doesn't is impurity.
● Siphon the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix into a second shot glass carefully leaving behind solid impurity

4. Heat isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) mix the same way as before, just untill you just start to see the first signs of film developing on surface.

5. Stop heating and add a drop or two more of isopropanol alcohol (or methanol), and add a couple of drops of acetone, and allow to evaporate.
● If you put it in the freezer it takes about 6 hours, but produces small crystals.
● If you put it in the fridge it takes longer, but you get bigger and longer crystals.
● If you leave it at room temp it takes the longest amount of time, but you get the biggest and longest crystals.
Hint: The idea behind this is the longer it takes for the isopropanol alcohol (or methanol) to cool down the bigger and longer the crystals are, because they have longer to form (very simple explanation).

WARNING: Do not touch or move the jar while it is growing crystals.

6. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing.

7. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold acetone to remove surface impurities, and let dry completely one last time.

Up next: Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way. Enso’s Miniature story.

That's all folks

Edit: Just some formatting]]> Purifying the Calcium Ammonium Nitrate from cold packs UPDATED https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26518/purifying-the-calcium-ammonium-nitrate-from-cold-packs-updated Mon, 27 Jan 2020 02:07:49 +0000 Spurious Generalities Duckboystump 26518@/bbs/discussions
1) get 1.5 cups of distilled h20 boiling on the stove in a medium saucepan that you dont care a lot about.

2) while your water is heating up, cut open your cold packs and throw away the water baggie. i usually do this with an 8 pack crate from Walgreens, but you can do it with less, just add less water, or boil off more water at the end.

3) when your water is at a rolling boil, dump all your prills from your cold packs in the saucepan, and stir until it starts boiling again.

4) Let it boil for about 5 mins, really cook off a decent amount of water and ONLY water. You can tell when it's only water boiling, because you will see only a fraction of the surface of the liquid bubbling and boiling. If the heat is too high, the AN will start boiling too, and the whole pot will be bubbling. We don't want this, it's pretty noxious to breathe and it's wasteful. This method is easy to do on an electric stove, as you can set the heat to like 5 or 6 and leave it there.nñ

5) when its reduced to mostly just AN (hardly any bubbling at medium heat), turn the heat off, let the mixture settle in the pan, and then when the sediment has separated from your cloudy aqueous layer, decant thru a funnel and coffee filters into a mason jar. Because we are now dealing with essentially molten AN, you need to do this quickly. Be prepared to have to reheat the mixture on the stove to melt it again, enough to get it through your filter.

6) throw away the sludge left in the pan. this is the fuckery of dirt sent to damn your story and hinder your high. also throw away the coffee filter full of sludge too.

7) take the lovely, thick, amberish liquid of love left in your mason jar, and put it in your freezer. This will speed up the AN's return to solid form, but if you aren't in a hurry, it will return to solid at room temp too.

8) after the AN has returned to solid, you now have a large amount of pure AN, and a minimum amount of water. Smash the AN up into a sludge.

9) take semi dry AN shards and put them ina tupperware. put a coffee filter on top of them, and put a handful of calcium chloride (damp rid) in the filter. leave it be for awhile, and it will dry out your shards. youre welcome. (Dollar General has a great store brand generic damp rid for $1. It's little prills, not the flat crystals, but it's just as good, and much cheaper.) Sometimes, you may have to do a step before this one if your sludge is too sludgy. If there is too much water present, plop it all in a baggie and snip the tiniest piece of the corner of one side off, and let water drippy drip drip out of that thang. Leave it suspended in a funnel above a cup or something, and come back later and put it in the Tupperware with the CaCl.

10) you now have AN shards with a minimum of water mucking them about, but still just enough water to get your stories started! good shit.]]> Websites like Totse https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26514/websites-like-totse Sat, 07 Dec 2019 03:54:55 +0000 Spurious Generalities ILTST9 26514@/bbs/discussions Strapped down to my bed https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26513/strapped-down-to-my-bed Sat, 07 Dec 2019 03:51:10 +0000 Spurious Generalities ILTST9 26513@/bbs/discussions I'm out of my head
Am I alive? Am I dead?
Can't remember what they said
God damn, shit the bed]]> Just got my last letter from college. https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/22373/just-got-my-last-letter-from-college Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:57:09 +0000 Spurious Generalities Paco 22373@/bbs/discussions
Looks like this motherfucker is going to Community College.

I really regret being a fucking moron my first two years of High School. It's really biting me in the ass now...]]> Review: ALITA: Battle Angel [2019] https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26497/review-alita-battle-angel-2019 Tue, 05 Feb 2019 16:15:10 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 26497@/bbs/discussions
I don't have a higher taste in movies and I am not some pretentious guy who looks for the perfection in everything, this movie was ENTERTAINING, the effects were top notch, ALITA with her BIG EYES was insanely fun to watch and if you just fix the story line and fix few issues left and right, it could actually be an awesome flick.

However, the disappointment comes halfway when you're asking yourself, what's the setup here? I mean is this going to wrap up in one movie or is there something else, like the Infinity war where you just thought OMG it will end now but it turns out differently, it's the same setup in a way.

Overall, I hope it gets a sequel because the fight scenes were fantastic.

If you got nothing good to watch and you want to enjoy something slightly different, give this a go.

Now, excuse me while I find the source material and binge read the manga and watch the Anime.]]> After cleaning PSE from GUPS, skip salting PSE out to use FB PSE in NP as NP in a reaction https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26489/after-cleaning-pse-from-gups-skip-salting-pse-out-to-use-fb-pse-in-np-as-np-in-a-reaction Wed, 10 Oct 2018 09:40:18 +0000 Spurious Generalities pibblesonacid 26489@/bbs/discussions
The only reason to salt would be to weigh it before the run.

Does the PSE need to salted out after the cleaning process or could i just keep it in the NP then combine with the reactants.

]]> Shake and Bake Meth by scrawny https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25555/shake-and-bake-meth-by-scrawny Mon, 02 Jul 2018 08:52:58 +0000 Spurious Generalities Scrawny 25555@/bbs/discussions https://erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/birch.mrclean.html
https://erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/birch.pseudo.html
https://chemistry.mdma.ch/hiveboard/crystal/000468062

SUPPLIES NEEDED

2oz Ammonium Suflate

2oz Lye

2L Plastic Bottle

1 cup to 1 and a half cup coleman fuel. You can also use isopropyl alcohol, xylene or ethanol.
1 AA Lithium Strip per 2 grams. half strip for one box

THE REACTION

Add all of the above then add 1 AA strip Per 2 Boxes of 2400 mg. or half strip for 1 box..

leave the PSE out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Shake her up if its not audibly or visually starting to make gas well.

Leave the lid cracked for a few minutes at a time then shut and shake untill it starts to build press.

Slowly burp. hiss and quickly a few times. keep an eye on it. for when it really starts to go.

Dont shake it at all after the gas starts to go .. nope. your done shaking it for now unless it is having a hard time starting to make the gas. If so shake and pressurise release etc. untill its starting to come to life/ pressurize basically at an ok rate then quit the shaking untill later.

Let it pressurize up and tend to it, let it out slowly now and then too keep it within a workable pressure it will after 25/45 minutes be making the bronze that you want and lots of it.

When3/4 to 7/8 or all of the strip has turned to the red/ lion bronze etc. puddle-

Slowly release the pressure to get the cap off.. dont fuck around and get the funnel on it.

Slowly sprinkle the fine ground gups into and on top of the bronze, dont take all day. but dont just plop the whole powder load right down on top of it either.

The PSE is in. Lid on .Shake quickly for 10 seconds or so and let the precursers settle/ be watching for any Lith. thats down in the granule layer. Circular swing/twist the bottle to get a whilrpool in there to get the lith floating and up out of the granular layer after each shake. Keep the lith out of that bottom.

Shake and vent like before trying to keep at least a little pressure on the thing. Shake vent etc. the bronze will be used up and it will go grey, blue, sometimes almost black- the solvent.

Go nuts and shake the fucker.

After about 15 to 20 minutes let it sit still after you shake it, watching the solvent ,that is now a healthy grey chocolate milk looking sob.Let it sit still for 3 to five minutes watching at the top of the solvent line for the solvent to clear up..

It will clear up from the top down like the vertical hold on a TV. the farther you are along= the faster it will clear up.

When you can watch it.. after a quick shake.. —-> clear up real quick, like under a minute and the grey 'lithium amide' comes to rest on top of the fert/lye layer.. It's done.

Its also done when somertimes the bronze is all used up. All gone from floating on top. The solvent is clear then also right after that happens.

Go ahead and loosen the capso it bleeds the pressure off, and leave it fairly loose for a few minutes to let most of the gas react and get up out through the solvent.

Tighten the cap.

Two filters only in a not craZY humid environment.. and with a real free flowing small paper towel plug in the neck or a cotton ball or two tip the bottle slowly trying to keep the media in the bottom of the bottle get the fluid/solvent to go down and with the bottle tilted get the solvent line above the whole cap.

Carefully loosen the cap and feed the solvent out and around the cap while its tilted swiftly down through the funnel.

This is a quick as possible rough filter, we want this done this is a dangerous step if there is any bronze floating in that pool of solvent in the funnel. Get it done quickly and pick your enviro wisely for this step, dont pull this on top of the washing machine with a can of camp fuel rubbing elbows with you or jars of solvent etc near any of this.

Reasoning here.. if its extremely humid the floating bronze can get itchy and real pissed off firefly style when the solvent has run all through the funnel and its sitting there in the real h20 laden air.

When the solvent has run through quickly twist up the 2 filters and wring them out very quickly over the funnel- just squeeze the fucker once and thats it, if there is bronze in them you will hear them hiss and groan. Drop the two filters into the reaction vessel then immediately. And cap it.

Pull the cotton balls or plug from the neck and do the same.

Get the RVessel the fuck outside or to a fire safe place. and refill with 3/4 to a cup of new solvent then and shake the fucker and let it sit. In a safe Place!!!

Now Get yourself another vessel like the one you have your solvent in now and make sure its clean dry and at least luke warm or room temp.

Pour the solvent from one vessel to the other 5 to 10 times.

Check the smell of the solvent.

The AA is completely gone yea?

Yep…all gone.

Clean the empty vessel thoroughly and dry and room temp or lukw warm it.

Clean and dry the funnel well inside and out and fit it with one or two tightly packed cotton balls or a nice decent paper towel plug or both a plug and a cotton ball or two half ass tight on top of it and place two filters on top of these.

Pre wet /pour a small amount of the same solvent you used / new stuff this time.. through the funnel and adjust the plug for a decent/ good filtration.

Finish filter the solvent now.

When its all filtered shove the filters and the plugs,cttnballs into the Reaction Vessel and recap immediately after its done filtering. This cuts the stinky factor down of the solvent in your enviro.. and keeps a handle on it.

Gas the solvent.

———

Put the gupps in after the bronze, this allows less precursers for the rxn, which means better yeild, less shit in there to trap the freebase Ma for it to cling get all mixed and mingled into.

The rxn between the Amm Nitrate and Sodium Hydroxide runs alot better when the guppy pill mass isnt getting into the way in between the two.

You get by with less Lithium to make the bronze because you arent shaking it and ramming it into the fert lye layer using up the bronze dicking around trying to make the gas to make the bronze etc. etc. You make the bronze with minimal Nh3 precursers and dont shake/waste any bronze.

Any adulterant in the pill mass to counter act the rxn and or cripple the rxn betwen the two to get to or severely slow down the bronze endpoint is driven around.

The Bronze is already made before the P. Mass gets in there. Giving them a big fuck you.

The finished product won't be crystal but it should look something like this

]]> The real shake and bake method, courtesy of li (nh3)4 https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25514/the-real-shake-and-bake-method-courtesy-of-li-nh3-4 Tue, 30 Jan 2018 19:55:17 +0000 Spurious Generalities wurfgurf 25514@/bbs/discussions This is a bit long but very indepth. The author of this began to abbreviate his words so I will say AN stands for ammonium nitrate and RV is reaction vessel and NP is non-polar solvent (will not mix with water)..Ok here. :

~

· To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE will be able to follow the procedure with successful results… Including those of you who failed in the past as well as those of you waiting to take that first step. (Assuming you use the chemicals that I list and follow the steps).

Recommended Materials/Tools:

~ The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equalor better in quality.

· 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 gramsPseudoephedrine)o Can be Sudafed or any of the generics
o Depending on the store and type, costs about $6 - $12
· 1/2 – 3/4 cup Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
o I use Roebic Laboratories Crystal Drain Opener from Lowe’s
o Ace Hardware also has smaller containers of 100% Lye that are about $7
o Costs about $16 with tax for a 2lb container
· 1/4 – 3/8 cup Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN)
o I use the crystals from the inside of instant Ice compresses from The Dollar General
§ Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.
o Costs $1.50 for each Ice Compress
o You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so
· 1/2 a bottle of Coleman’s Premium Camping Fuel
o Red bottle at Walmart
o Costs around $6
o Look, I know this is going to hurt a bunch of vaginas out there so here’s the deal…
§ I used VM&P Naphtha for a while, but it’s a pain in the ass keeping that shit warm enough…especially through a thick ass Sodastream bottle
§ I also used Diethyl Ether for a bit, and it worked fine, I just got tired of having to empty the cans and doing the water wash with the shit.
§ I LIKE COLEMAN’S!!! If you don’t like that, guess you’ll probably live…
~Toluene, Xylene, Hexane, etc.
· 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
o I buy a pack of 2 bottles at Walmart
o Costs about $14
o I reuse them a few times, although many others recommend against doing this, but I’m cheap and I haven’t had any problems.
· 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Bateries
o I buy the 4 packs from Walmart
o Costs about $6 for the 4-pack
o Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through
· A couple bottles of bottled water
· Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called hydrochloric acid –HCl)
o I buy at Lowes
o 1 Gallon Jug
o Costs about $8
· Some Acetone
o I buy at Lowes
o I believe it’s around a quart, in a metal container, and it costs around $7
· A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters
o I got mine at Lowes
o Cost around $10 or so
o Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries
· A couple pairs of plyers
o One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the “guts” out of the battery
· A bunch of coffee filters
· A couple of cotton balls
· A blow-dryer
· A grocery bags to use as a trash bag
· A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I like the ones with the slide seals)
· 2 Eye Droppers
· Something to test PH
o I use Phenyl Red Drops from a regular pool PH Test Kit (Gheto, but it works)
· A mason Jar
· A sewing needle
· A plate to use as an evaporation plate
· A Plastic Funnel
· A blender
· 1/4 Cup measuring cup
· Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)o I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia…That shit is nasty.
o Honestly,I usually cook in the car or in my bedroom in boxers, but I know shit can go wrong, and that’s just stupid… Please, safety first.

I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of shit, but don’t get discouraged… It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $100 a gram, so you will have about $185 -$250 street value worth of product for each cook… ... thinks this is apretty good Return on Investment, but ...doesn’t care because he likes to abuse all of the product from ever cook

OK… Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPIE”of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy… Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start… Trust me, this process is FUCKING EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing… The only REAL DANGER is all the Damn Over-Zealous Hillbilly Geniuses that believe reading is for the city folk. Please don’t add to the ridiculously amplified misconception that this is a super dangerous procedure that will blow our innocent neighbors up… It’s bad publicity!

Basic Procedure Outline:
1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour or 2

2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars

3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full and place them both in the freezer

4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry

5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily accessible and organized in the work area

6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid

7. Measure out 1/2 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid

8. Measure out 1/4 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid

9. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 1/4 cup of the AN crystals and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid

10. Measure out 1/8 cup of the AN crystals (1/2 of the 1/4 cup measuring cup) and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid

11. Pour about 1/4 of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel into a plastic Ziploc bag and keep bag handy for next step

12. Remove Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
i. Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the “guts” of the battery as well as you can
ii. Pinghat (I like him), suggested using a steak knife to saw through the casing without digging into the guts, then pulling casing apart…Probably a much easier way to attempt this, and I’m gonna give that shit a go next time
c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
i. Tightly hold the second end of the battery
ii. Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through
iii. While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery
iv. Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing
v. Place the “guts” directly into the fuel in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible
d. Repeat this process with the second battery
e. Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it

13. Add the 1/4 cup Tupperware container of AN to the RV using the funnel

14. Add the 1/2 cup Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel

15. Add the 2nd 1/4th of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel to the RV using the funnel

16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery Guts:
a. Open the Ziploc baggie containing the fuel and the battery guts
b. Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery guts while keeping them submerged the entire time
c. Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the blackand shiny silver strip)
d. Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery “guts” into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
e. Repeatthe process for the 2nd roll of “guts”
f. Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
g. Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV

17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel

18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV

19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…

20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV

21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure

22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and make a mental note of where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook

23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant a pressure relief (Burp):
a. These Sodastream bottles are beasts and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing, so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together
b. The first burp will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time
c. After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE

24. When pressure reaches the threshold, burp the RV:
a. Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressur eescape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap
b. There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV…Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting
c. You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want

25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well
a. If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either burping too early, too often, or both. No big deal... Just be observant and learn.

26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process

27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… so Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
a. The pink color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles

28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap

29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding the remaining 1/8 cup AN and then the remaining 1/4 cup of lye to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong

30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV

31. Shake the fuck out of the bottle for about 10 seconds…

32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes

33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
a. It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li
b. You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles
i. This color change will likely happen many times
ii. Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…

34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45sec, your cook is complete.
a. You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze
b. If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time

35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure

36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters

37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
a. Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
b. As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
c. As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
d. Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar
e. Oncet he filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters
f. Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them

38. Dump the contents of the RV into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.

39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.

· Water Pull

o If you want to do gas Titration, please do it… Water pull is what I like…
o If you have questions about Gassing, ASK ECSTACYBEANS… That dude loves to go on about Gassing…and on…and on…and on……..

40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel inthe Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.

41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack

42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal

43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel

44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time

45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.

46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute

47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
a. Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer

48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
a. Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
b. When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
i. It’svery easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well
ii. I want Y’all to do this part good so you can join me in Nagging Beans about our dope NOT being fucked up

49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate (Pyrex dish if you like)

50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar
a. Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate

51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate

52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate

53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile
54. You can abuse as you wish at this point
a. The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle
b. Youc an continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like, but it’s not necessary

· Acetone Wash

55. Allow meth to completely dry

56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass

57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…

58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth

59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass

ReCrystalization

60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass

61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling

62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass

63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.

64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards

65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing

66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…

· You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.

That’s it.

Sincerely, that’s as detailed with the steps as I can be…If you still can’t follow that, PLEASE just buy your dope off of someone that can!

Once again, the preceding post was a 100% hypothetical scenario that I generated based on the information that I’ve picked up reading this thread… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. ~

So that's the thing i read way back when I was googling shake and bake for an easy recipe on chicken.. I will compile other uses for the chemicals listed, although I do wish to remind you that it most likely won't be necessary. Patterson is unaware of many many things. There were many more chemicals in that garage that were confiscated that had nothing to do with the production of narcotics or non-narcotics, including two decent chemistry sets I have had since childhood. Thank you for your time,
Sincerely,
Not ENSO so now everybody knows. Enjoy!!]]> What's the ratio of ingredients in a shake n bake recipe? https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26494/whats-the-ratio-of-ingredients-in-a-shake-n-bake-recipe Sun, 30 Dec 2018 21:35:54 +0000 Spurious Generalities Nash 26494@/bbs/discussions Ion exchange resin https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26504/ion-exchange-resin Fri, 05 Apr 2019 06:12:02 +0000 Spurious Generalities dean45 26504@/bbs/discussions Movie Reviews: February Week 1 [2019] https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26496/movie-reviews-february-week-1-2019 Sun, 03 Feb 2019 17:12:22 +0000 Spurious Generalities Dfg 26496@/bbs/discussions The Possession of Hannah Grace - 1/5, Avoid it, it's full of jump scares and it's just not that great. You will wish you did something better with your time, I was lucky since I didn’t pay for it and used my free movie pass on this. Best decision ever.

The kid who would be king - 3/5 a rather refreshing take on an old tales, good fun but aimed at kids, so give it a pass unless you have kids. However, it is entertaining and light hearted. AND predictable as fuck.

Bumblebee - 4/5 A massive improvement over the Transformer movies, it actually felt like a real movie, good plot, and some decent action. Overall you will like it. And I didn’t the cast this time.

Aquaman - 4/5 Not as great as it could be, but it's still fun, entertaining and dare I say, funny. The fight scenes did not disappoint.

Glass - 1/5 Disappointing, it could have been so much better, Just torrent it.

Solis - 2/5 If you’re into Sci-fi you will enjoy it, but it gets boring and the pacing seems off. Not worth the cinema, just torrent it.

Spiderman Into the Spider verse - 4/5 Definitely worth a watch, hits all the sweet spots. Watch it on big screen.

Movies to look forward to:

Alita: Battle Angel
The Lego Movie 2
How to Train Your Dragon 3 ]]> Pseudoephedrine Extraction https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26491/pseudoephedrine-extraction Sun, 02 Dec 2018 03:48:36 +0000 Spurious Generalities Nash 26491@/bbs/discussions
full method snapshot: https://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/pseudo.xtract.fullturps.html

EXTRACTION OF PSEUDOEPHEDRINE

Materials required:
OTC pseudoephedrine tablets
Hotplate
Fan
Pyrex evaporation dish
Funnels, cotton balls, coffee filters
Stirring rod
Non-polar solvent of choice
Mineral turps
Acetone
Alcohol of choice (methanol, ethanol, etc.)
Beakers or collection jars.

Abstract of Procedure:
Turps soak
Non-polar solvent boils until clean
Acetone boils until clean
Dry
Extract 3x with alcohol of choice
Evaporate to near dry, acetone flash
Recrystallize

Statement of Procedure:

1) Grind pills thoroughly. Soak for twelve hours in mineral turpentine. Alternatively soak for twelve hours in odorless mineral spirits, toluene, or xylene. Decant, discard solvent.

2) Transfer pill mass to suitable shallow bowl or evaporation dish.

3) Cover to twice its depth in non-polar solvent of choice (recommended solvent: mineral spirits). Place on heating element in a location with adequate ventilation with a fan blowing across the top of the container. Heat slowly with continuous stirring until the solvent reaches a gentle boil; adjust heat to maintain a gentle boil, with constant stirring, for five minutes. Remove from heat. Decant solvent. Use “panning” motion to separate as much solvent as possible while retaining pill mass. Alternatively, filter the solvent and pill mass through three coffee filters; retain pill mass, return to dish. Examine filtered solvent. It should be cloudy.

4) Repeat mineral spirits boils until the mineral spirits are clear when decanted. Test the clear, decanted mineral spirits by adding water; if anything precipitates out with the addition of water, repeat mineral spirits boil until the solvent is clean when decanted. Expect three boils to be necessary; dirtier pills or poor technique may require additional boils.

5) Cover the pill mass with three times its volume of dry acetone. Slowly bring to a gentle boil, with constant stirring. Boil for five minutes, allow to settle, decant. Continue with acetone boils until the decanted acetone is clean. Test for contaminants by adding water to decanted acetone and observing whether adulterants precipitate out. If so, continue acetone boils until acetone until it decants clear without adulterant precipitating with the addition of water. Expect three boils to be sufficient, depending on pill content and operator technique.

6) Allow pill mass to dry thoroughly.

7) Transfer pill mass to beaker or glass container of sufficient size to allow the addition of at least three times the pill mass’ volume of alcohol of choice. MeOH and/or denatured alcohol are recommended alcohol's. EtOH may be used if dried. Isopropyl alcohol may be used if dried. Allow pill mass to soak with agitation or stirring for twenty minutes.

8) Prepare a funnel by placing cotton balls in the neck of the funnel and fitting the funnel with three coffee filters. Decant alcohol from pill mass through three coffee filters and allow to drain into a clean glass container.

9) Return pill mass to beaker and repeat step 6, except the time for soaking should be reduced to ten minutes. Decant as before.

10) Soak pill mass a third time as in step 6, except decant after five minutes. (Save pill mass until final yield is determined to be satisfactory).

11) Place collected alcohol in evaporating dish and evaporate over very low heat, with a fan or hair dryer blowing across the surface until almost completely evaporated. Flood with dried acetone. Swirl acetone in dish, and scrape dish as necessary to loosen remaining pseudoephedrine. Decant acetone (or filter through three coffee filters.) Allow to dry.

12) Heat dried ISO alcohol to boiling. Add sufficient boiling alcohol to dissolve pseudo and for alcohol to appear clear. Filter through three coffee filters. If alcohol solution remains cloudy, filter through three coffee filters and Charmin plug. Rinse filters with small amount of fresh alcohol. Reduce volume of alcohol in evaporation dish at until first signs of crystal formation appear. Add just enough alcohol by drops to dissolve surface skin, add equal volume of dry acetone, cover with air tight lid or saran wrap, place in refrigerator.

13) Allow crystals to form; decant liquid and quickly rinse crystals with dry acetone. Add rinse acetone to remaining liquid and evaporate down to saturated alcohol, add acetone, and allow crystals to form again. Rinse these.

14) Combine crystals. Re-dissolve in boiling alcohol and repeat crystallization. Harvest final crystals.
]]> The Proper way to remove CMP https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26490/the-proper-way-to-remove-cmp Thu, 29 Nov 2018 14:47:33 +0000 Spurious Generalities dreamer123 26490@/bbs/discussions

Birch DEA
sbillinghurst
9 years ago
Isolation of Methamphetamine from 1-(1′,4′-Cyclohexadienyl)-2-methylaminopropane (CMP)
Using Potassium Permanganate

Fracia S. Martinez,* Daniel M. Roesch, and James L. Jacobs
U.S. Department of Justice
Drug Enforcement Administration
Southwest Laboratory
2815 Scott St.
Vista, CA 92081
[email: fracia.s.martinez -at- usdoj.gov]

[Reprinted with Permission from the Journal of the Clandestine Laboratory Investigating Chemists Association 2008;18(1):18-22. Reformatted to Microgram Journal standards; Abstract and Keywords Added (and Slight Changes Made) by the Microgram Editor.]

ABSTRACT: Methamphetamine illicitly prepared via active metal/ammonia (Birch) reduction of ephedrine or pseudoephedrine is commonly contaminated with 1-(1′,4′-cyclohexadienyl)-2-methylaminopropane (CMP), often in significant amounts. Large percentages of CMP in methamphetamine samples result in poor quality (mixed) FTIR spectra. Preliminary treatment/cleanup of CMP-contaminated samples with potassium permanganate gives “clean” methamphetamine for FTIR analysis.

KEYWORDS: Methamphetamine, 1-(1′,4′-Cyclohexadienyl)-2-methylaminopropane, Ephedrine, Pseudoephedrine, Birch Reduction, Potassium Permanganate, Forensic Chemistry

Introduction

One of the primary methods of clandestine methamphetamine synthesis is the reduction of ephedrine or pseudoephedrine utilizing an alkali metal such as lithium or sodium, and liquefied ammonia. During a typical reduction of (pseudo)ephedrine, only the hydroxyl group is reduced, producing methamphetamine. With excess alkali metal, and in the presence of an additional proton source [1-8], the aromatic ring is additionally reduced to form a cyclohexadiene (Figure 1). This product is readily generated and is consistent with Birch (Na, EtOH, NH3) type reactions. The product produced in this reaction is known as 1-(1′,4′-cyclohexadienyl)-2-methylaminopropane (CMP), or more simply, the Birch reduction product. On occasion, the CMP to methamphetamine ratio is very high in the final product of this synthesis, which can yield an undesirable, mixed infrared spectrum (Figure 2 – second pane). Separation and identification of methamphetamine and CMP is easily accomplished by gas chromatography/mass spectroscopy, but some scientists prefer infrared spectroscopy, as it provides easy differentiation of the various phenethylamines. This paper will describe a quick, qualitative method for the elimination of CMP commonly found with methamphetamine manufactured from (pseudo)ephedrine using the lithium – ammonia reduction method [9-11].

Experimental

Reagents and Solutions:

* A 2% solution of potassium permanganate was prepared by dissolving 0.5 grams KMnO4 > in 25 mL water (use caution, potassium permanganate is a moderately strong oxidizing corrosive).
* Aqueous base (sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate, etc.).
* Organic solvent (hexane, diethyl ether, or similar).
* Hydrogen chloride (HCl).
* Mixture of Methamphetamine – CMP (60:40).

Instrumentation:

* Nicolet Avatar 370 DTGS-Thermo Electron Corporation. Smart Golden Gate Diamond ATR with KRS-5 Lenses. Number of scans 16, resolution 4 cm-1, and range 400 – 4000 cm-1.

* Agilent 5973 GC-MSD quadrupole electron impact mass spectrometer system with a 30 m HP-5 MS, 0.25 mm, 0.25 μm column. Carrier gas is ultra pure Helium. Instrument parameters: Temperature 90°C to 300°C at 30°C/minute, initial time 1 minute, final hold time 6 minutes, injection port temperature 260°C, transfer line 280°C.

* LCQ Advantage Max ThermoFinnigan quadrupole ion-trap mass spectrometer equipped with an electrospray ionization source (ESI) and interfaced to a Surveyor HPLC system. Phenomenex Luna column C18 – 2.0 x 30 mm x 3 μm. Gradient flow of 95:5 to 5:95 Solvent A/Solvent B over a 10 minutes run. Solvent A is H2O with 0.1% (v/v) formic acid, while Solvent B is acetonitrile with 0.1% (v/v) formic acid. The flow rate was 200 mL/minute. Samples were prepared using Solvent A. Mass spectrometry data were collected in the positive ion mode using the full-scan mode in order to provide molecular weight information.

Procedure:

1. Place 25 mg of the sample (methamphetamine/CMP) in a test tube.
2. Dissolve the sample in 3 mL of water and add 0.5 mL of 2% KMnO4 solution, then agitate with vortex.
3. Add aqueous base (e.g., sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate, or similar) to the test tube to make a basic solution (pH > 12).
4. Add organic solvent (3 mL hexane) to the test tube, shake, and isolate the organic layer in a new, clean vessel.
5. Bubble HCl gas through the organic extract.
6. Isolate the precipitate (filtration, evaporation, or similar), dry, and obtain an IR spectrum.

Results and Discussion

The potassium permanganate reaction was performed on a mixed (60:40) sample of methamphetamine and CMP. Prior to performing the potassium permanganate reaction, this sample was analyzed by mass spectrometry for confirmation of sample components (Figures 3, 4A, and 4B). Potassium permanganate was then reacted with the mixture. When CMP is reacted with potassium permanganate, the double bonds on CMP are hydroxylated. By applying this technique with an aqueous base/organic solvent extraction, the CMP sodium salt formed remained in the aqueous phase while methamphetamine passed into the organic phase, where it was isolated by precipitation as the hydrochloride salt form. The final product was then sufficiently pure to be identified by infrared spectroscopy (Figure 2). Again a mass spectrometer was used to determine the effectiveness of the reaction, and the analysis confirmed that methamphetamine had been fully isolated from CMP (Figure 5 and 6).

To verify the hydroxylation of CMP and to show that no methamphetamine is produced by this reaction, a pure sample of CMP was reacted with potassium permanganate using the described technique and then analyzed by LC/MS (Figure 7). The presence of the 186 and 220 fragments in the mass spectrum obtained indicate that a mixture of dihydroxylated and tetrahydroxylated derivatives of CMP are produced by reaction with aqueous potassium permanganate (pH > 8) [12]. There is no indication in the mass spectrum that CMP is converted to methamphetamine (no significant molecular ion at m/z 150). Methamphetamine is left unaffected when reacted with potassium permanganate (Figure 8).

Conclusions

In mixtures where the ratio of CMP to methamphetamine is high, the isolation of methamphetamine can be achieved by reacting CMP with potassium permanganate and an aqueous base. The procedure facilitates the isolation of methamphetamine from its primary by-product associated with the lithium – ammonia method of methamphetamine synthesis. It is rapid and straightforward, with few steps, and allows for convenient identification of methamphetamine using infrared spectroscopy.

Acknowledgments

The authors acknowledge the contributions and assistance of Supervisory Chemist David W. Love; Senior Forensic Chemist Sandra E. Rodriguez-Cruz, Ph.D.; and Laboratory Worker Donald G. Smith (all at this laboratory).

References

1. Smith M. Dissolving Metal Reactions; In: Reduction, Robert L. Augustine, ed., Marcel Dekker, New York, NY:1968, pp. 95-108, 118, 121-122, 12-127, 131-132, and 162-170.
2. Watt GW. Reactions of organic and organometallic compounds with solutions of metals in liquid ammonia. Chemical Reviews 1950;46:317-322; 328-329; 335-338; and 371-379.
3. Kaiser EM. A comparison of methods using lithium/amine and Birch reduction systems. Synthesis 1972(8):391-415.
4. Birch AJ, Smith H. Reductions by metal-amine solutions: Applications in synthesis and determination of structure. Quarterly Reviews (The Chemical Society, London) 1958;12:17-33.
5. Birch AJ. The reductions of organic compounds by metal-ammonia solutions. Quarterly Reviews (The Chemical Society, London) 1950;4:69-93.
6. March J. Hydrogenation of Aromatic Rings; In: Advanced Organic Chemistry, 3rd Ed., John Wiley and Sons, New York, NY:1985; pp. 700-702.
7. Vogel AI. Reduction of Aromatic Compounds; In: Vogel’s Textbook of Practical Organic Chemistry, 5th Ed., Brian S. Furniss, et al., eds, 1989, John Wiley and Sons (Co-publisher), New York, NY:1989; pp. 1114-1117.
8. Fieser LF, Fieser M. Birch Reduction; In: Reagents for Organic Synthesis, John Wiley and Sons, New York, NY:1967; pp. 54-56.
9. Person EC, Meyers JA, Vyvyan JR. Structural determination of the principal byproduct of the lithium-ammonia reduction method of methamphetamine manufacture. Journal of Forensic Sciences 2005;50(1):1-9.
10. Person EC, Knops LA. Clandestine ammonia generation. Journal of the Clandestine Laboratory Investigating Chemists Association 2004;14(1):20-25.*
11. Anonymous. Methamphetamine byproduct from birch reduction tentatively identified. Journal of the Clandestine Laboratory Investigating Chemists Association 1997;7(2):7-10.*
12. Internet Website (Author Not Listed). Hydroxylation. Dihydroxylated products (glycols) are obtained by reaction with aqueous potassium permanganate (pH > 8) or osmium tetroxide in pyridine. http://www.cem.msu.edu/~reusch/VirtTxtJml/addene2.htm (Last Accessed February, 2008).
13. Solomons TWG. Organic Chemistry, 4th Ed., John Wiley and Sons, New York, NY:1988; pp. 320-325.

* Law Enforcement Restricted Publication.

* * * * *

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]]> Really wish we could get forum more active..... https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26495/really-wish-we-could-get-forum-more-active Mon, 07 Jan 2019 12:20:22 +0000 Spurious Generalities Chopper 26495@/bbs/discussions Water washing np solvent before gassing https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26493/water-washing-np-solvent-before-gassing Thu, 27 Dec 2018 06:26:37 +0000 Spurious Generalities Chopper 26493@/bbs/discussions
wouldn’t I need to dry it before it is used in my reaction? (due to the fact h2o is a big no no when it comes to snb)

Also if I chose to do the wash after my reaction before I am ready to gas wouldn’t I also need to dry it? (Due to the fact that my product is VERY water soluble and could definitely hurt my yield if h2o is present)

I have seen where some recommend doing these washes but I don’t see them recommending drying afterwards...Anyone with experience when it comes to doing washes with a snb and gassing method your advice would be greatly appreciated ]]> Investigations! Farewell https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25528/investigations-farewell Wed, 04 Apr 2018 03:15:57 +0000 Spurious Generalities wurfgurf 25528@/bbs/discussions Peace love God bless all of you. I hope I can stop in to say hello soon. ]]> "Tetra Trap" leftover GUPS and SnB https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/26488/tetra-trap-leftover-gups-and-snb Wed, 26 Sep 2018 22:36:11 +0000 Spurious Generalities pibblesonacid 26488@/bbs/discussions
I was wondering if I used an amount of the tetra leftovers in place of the PSE in a Snb in a F-Ex if that would work. I'm curious as to how much i could pull from them. In this story i want to experiment with one, and have a rainy day fund

Thoughts?

PoA ]]> translate Enso's Shake n Bake into german https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25565/translate-ensos-shake-n-bake-into-german Mon, 17 Sep 2018 12:15:13 +0000 Spurious Generalities thedexter23 25565@/bbs/discussions
years ago I translated a meth shake and bake tutorial from english into german. It was this tutorial by Lord Mighty.

This had some difficulties mostly because of the brands of household chemicals are used. I had to do much research about ingredients of all kind of america only products. But in the end I successfully translated and enhanced a short tutorial into a 14 pages guide to perform the shake and bake synthesis in german speaking countries. It featured everything from chemistry knowledge, how to get the pseudo and all the other chemicals, all preparations and the synthesis in detailed steps (optional gas method or water titration), optional purification and the full source. At the end I was able to perform this synthesis without problems.

Now, years later I am going to translate and enhance a new better version of the shake and bake synthesis - It's this one by Enso:
Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story 1.1

I am pretty finished with the whole translation and adaption for german-speaking countries. But there are a few questions left:

I always used Naphta (here in germany/austria called "Waschbenzin") instead of Diethylether, Hexane and other stuff. Enso uses Hexane and Diethylether as "fuel" in the reaction vessel. He uses Hexane for the crap the synthesis left behind (lithium and all other stuff). I used Naphta for everything: storing the lithium battery guts, as fuel in the reaction vessel and for dispose of the synthesis crap.
1) Can I use Naphta instead of diethylether and hexane?

Also Enso uses "CRC QD Electronics Cleaner" as source of hexane. But as I researched it I found the MSDS (material safety data sheet) and it says this product contains only 5 to 10% of hexane and other ingredients are naphta and oder solvents:
CRC QD Electronics Cleaner MSDS
So if this products is used, the hexane that is referred to in the synthesis guide is a mixture of many solvents because I don't think Enso extracted the hexane from all the other solvents. This questions don't matter that much because I am planning to use naphta instead but:
2) Is there an other "CRC QD Electronics Cleaner" which only contains hexane and which is used here?

Everytime I performed my "old" shake and bake method I had 2 AA Lithium batteries for reducing 2.4g of pseudo. Enso only uses 1 battery. So..
3) Is the .94g Lithium from 1 battery definitively enough to reduce 2.4g pseudo and the 2 batteries are way to much?

When filtering the solution (with the funnel, cotton balls, filters and MgS04) I always used fuel (naphta) to wet the whole filter setup before my solution gets through and after my solution was through i used fuel (naphta) to rinse everything of the honey out.
4) Why Enso does not do that and will it be a problem if I do it this way?

Enso says on step "Water washing the solution" that this step could be skipped if the meth is for i.V. use because the sulfur impurities will cause the "massive head rush" when injected. I am an i.V. user of meth so I personally will skip this step.
5) On the final (optional) step of recrystallisation with hot methanol to get big crystals - will there also be washed out these sulfur impurities?

I thought about the possibility of doing the shake and bake with the double amount of pseudo. So theoretic will it be possible to just double the amounts of the chemical ingredients and use a 1 liter soda stream bottle instead of a 0.5 liter soda stream bottle or will this cause problems? I am not planning to do that because 2.4g pseudo will yield an ideal amount of meth and doing this in a double sized reaction vessel seems to unnecessarily increase the risks.
6) But will it be possible? If yes what adaptions are to make?

a question is about this part:

3. Add about 100 ml of Ether and around 200 ml of hexane to a baggie.
4. Water Wash this Fuel Mix twice, and the transfer the fuel to the Soda Stream Bottle.

7) What exactly does "water wash" the fuel mix means?

It's logical that getting all the solvents anhydrous with MgSO4 (Epsom) is the more perfect way. On my old method I never used MgSO4 to get my naphta dry/anhydrous before the reaction and I had no problems.
8) What exactly is the benefit of getting the solvents fully anhydrous and what is the worst case of what could happen if I don't do this?

- - -

As said my translation to german is 99% complete and nearly all enhancements are done. I am in addition going to make illustrations for each step for the 1.1 version.

If anyone is interested in my german enhanced version of the shake and bake synth (the old one as well as the new one based on Enso's work) just say it and I will publish it here.

You can contact me direct via mail which you can find here:
pastebin with my mail

greets from a german-speaking country
thedexter23]]> Snb in a Vacuum Chamber? How terrible could this turn out https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25564/snb-in-a-vacuum-chamber-how-terrible-could-this-turn-out Mon, 10 Sep 2018 11:25:05 +0000 Spurious Generalities pibblesonacid 25564@/bbs/discussions
any thoughts? I'm modding a 12v air compressor into a vac as we speak, i just dont want to level the farm with an explosion and would like to get other viewpoints.

PoA]]> Need guidence https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25479/need-guidence Wed, 23 Aug 2017 00:16:14 +0000 Spurious Generalities sexymomma77 25479@/bbs/discussions burned suzy by cleaning... is there a remedy for this or this is going to trash? https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25456/burned-suzy-by-cleaning-is-there-a-remedy-for-this-or-this-is-going-to-trash Thu, 18 May 2017 15:45:37 +0000 Spurious Generalities thrill.420 25456@/bbs/discussions ]]> The official "What are you listening now?" thread https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/269/the-official-what-are-you-listening-now-thread Thu, 08 Jul 2010 02:41:33 +0000 Spurious Generalities Vizier 269@/bbs/discussions
Starting with a classic:

Slayer - Raining Blood]]> Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way Enso’s Miniature story. https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25371/miniature-rp-i-reduction-how-he-did-it-the-proper-way-enso-s-miniature-story Tue, 10 May 2016 23:50:13 +0000 Spurious Generalities enso 25371@/bbs/discussions Miniature RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way Enso’s Miniature story.

Disclaimer:
The up coming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

Some important information.

The ratios are based on you using red phosphorus from matchbooks and iodine from tincture. WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT ADJUST RATIO.
The reason is never once while small scale producing has one had a failure or half reacted product, and never yielded under 65%. So follow instructions and don't make any adjustments.

From start to finish takes the average bee about 2 hours. Give yourself 2.5 hours… or if your slow 3…. You will end up with at least 0.7gm of super strong meth.

This guys bee has seen his share of failures during his adventures of cooking, but for some fucked up reason those were only seen in much larger scale cooks.

This guys bee has taught his friends this small scale procedure because some people have a really hard time understanding the mathematics of producing meth.
Learning this way will teach you the basics hands on.

Producing HIGH QUALITY meth fail safe and consistently is a skill that takes 100% visual/observational skills and actually knowing what is happening WHILE it is happening and knowing that fine line of needed adjustments if things don't go as planned. That makes this synth a good tool to exercise your observational skills and get you understanding what is going on.

Reaction

Materials
● test tubes (a glass cigar tube works fine)
● a packet of standard size water balloons
● black electrical tape
● 2 food cans (one filled with damp sand)
● candle (buy the kind that sit in glass bowl)
● 1.5 grams clean pseudoephedrine
● 3 grams iodine
● 2 grams red phosphorus
● small amount of peroxide (common household)
● distilled water

Using 2 of the food cans, one on top of the other, makes a perfect source of heat to the moist sand. Construction is quite simple: the lower can has holes drilled throughout it for air supply for flame. Now with candle lit in 1st can place 2nd can with sand right on top. The sand will warm instantly and your ready to go.

The ratio you will be using is:

● 1.5 grams clean PSE
● 3 grams Iodine tincture
● 2 grams RedP

● Place your test tube in freezer 5 minutes before adding chemicals. In the following order add: Iodine, PSE, RedP.

● Have your tape and balloon ready to go.
● With a dropper add 4 drops of peroxide and place balloon over test tube approx. 1cm. Tape balloon in place.
● Using your finger to prevent anything from entering the balloon, shake the 3 reactants to mix well. The reaction will start, now place tube into sand 2.5-3 inches and set timer for one hour.

● now is the time to use your observational skills; take notes on what you see. After a handful of runs at this soon you won't need to set a timer because you will have taught yourself and have your own signs that completion of the reaction is there. But for now go with 1 hour, no more no less.
● Blow your candle out and let tube cool in sand for 15 min. Take your now room temp. test tube and cut balloon off.

●Add 20ml dh2o. With thumb over the hole, shake up and filter out the red (its good to have a few test tubes clean and handy) by pouring liquid into another test tube using small funnel and 1 coffee filter (saturate filter with dh2o prior to using.) Now your left with a clear, yellowish liquid.

Water titration (Crystallization)

Materials

● NaOH (lye)
● Naphtha (charcoal lighter fluid)
● Muriatic acid
● dh2o

● Add 8gm of lye to a clean test tube. Now add 20mL of dh2o and mix well (use gloves if you shake tube using your finger as a stopper!) then place in sand to cool.
● Add 50mL lighter fluid to the tube with your yellow liquid. When cool add the lye solution SLOWLY to the tube with the yellow liquid and lighter fluid. Don't pour it in all at once, add splashes until gone.

● Cover the hole and give it one good shake, release the pressure and place in sand for approx. 15 minutes. Your lye will be locked on the bottom which is fine.

● Pour off lighter fluid into a clean test tube. Add 20mL dh2o, 4 drops of acid and shake hard. Use an eye dropper to get the bottom layer, attaching aquarium vacuum tubing to extend the length if needed. Pour this onto your glass dish and evaporate. What remains after dh2o evaporates is pure meth.

If you want crystals (shards) you have to do a recrystallization.

That's all folks!

Up next: How to remove fexofenadine from decongestant. Enso's little story
]]> A new take on the shake and bake https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25509/a-new-take-on-the-shake-and-bake Tue, 09 Jan 2018 03:08:31 +0000 Spurious Generalities wurfgurf 25509@/bbs/discussions
Equipment needed:
small glass bottle or test tube that will hold no more than 50 ml
Plastic, flexible hose I got from lowes for five bucks.
Gatorade bottle (or round bottom or erlenmeyer if you can, with runner stoppers w hole)
Gloves, at least nitrile bc latex ain't shit
Any plastic bottle (to be cut in half. This will be our bucket for some acetone and dry ice, or u can use a measuring cup)
A glass beaker or an equivalent glass no bigger than 100mgs, it's gotta be small enough to fit in the mink bucket.
Ha,mmer, maybe
Plastic or glass stir rod, NOT METAL!!!
Gorilla glue (eh, maybe not, this is optional)

Ingredients
Pseudoephedrine, ephedrine, aka sudafed or bronkaid
Lye
Ammonium salt (either ammonium nitrate, sulfate, urea, whatever has the ability to produce ammonia gas, OR liquid cleaning ammonia, preferably a very concentrated form.
Hot plate or similar as in stove
Lithium batteries (3 per ounce of pfed) or
Sodium metal (some of you might be bad asses and make your own from the lye using magnesium. Ask me if you're interested or even check YouTube for some great tutorials)
Nonpolar solvent of your choice (mine is naphtha or toluene, toluene is even better, but my access is limited to lacquer thinner, which I have a method on extracting it from, but I don't want to test it on a batch
Acetone
Dry ice as in frozen co2 or you can use liquid nitrogen or if you have a hard time getting these things you can try. i think wart remover is liquid nitrogen, check ingredients.
IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO USE ONLY PLASTIC OR GLASS OR STAINLESS STEEL! KEEP COPPER AWAY. COPPER IS ABSOLUTELY A NONO

Ok, there maybe other things, small things but otherwise this is so goddamn simple you will hopefully wonder why you havent used this method before. First of all, there's no preset amount of pseudoephedrine needed. U can crush up however many you want and change them. I do typically use 50 of the 60 mg walfed with the chlorfeniramine, but sometimes I just want to get high myself so I get me the box of 24 red hots and cook em. FIRST THINGS FIRST: if you are in America you don't have to worry about shit when it comes to gak, at least in every state I've been. Idk about Oregon, you guys might be fucked. Any pill that brags about methamphetamine reduction is doomed unless you follow the turps method found on the hive archive. Bless yalls hearts, I feel your pain. ...
This must be done outside and once your liquid ammonia is created you need to make sure there's nobody around to smell this shit. It's loud, as the kids say these days. This is easy don't worry., just be aware, keep jokers and other such fools out of your life as this is concerned. It's the fool who gets caught and then gets scared by the cops threats of five to ten and they throw your name out like yesterday's banana peel.
You need to first set the hose up and this is really all the work so do it right. Drill a hole into the Gatorade cap just slightly bigger than the hose's diameter. Now take one end of you house and stick it in the hole. Your objective is to get a tight fit so u don't have to even use the gorilla glue. Use it any ways. Just a smidgen, around where the tubing meets the cap. Basically keep it air tight. This takes about an hour to dry. You will know it's dry when it foams white. The Gatorade bottle is where your lye and ammonia salt go. You need about three time as much salt as the liquid you will need. You will NOT need more than 30 ml of ammonia if you only use a box of sudafed. This will require about 90 grams of ammonium nitrate. You don't want a super fast reaction because the dry ice won't keep up. Ammonia freezes at -33c, which isn't really much below 0 in Fahrenheit. Dry ice mixed with acetone gets right around -80c, so it's very effective at liquefying ammonia. Take a small plastic container or even a bottle you might have to cut in half, as stated in equipment needed. Fill this container with acetone. Now break up up some chunks of dry ice and start adding them to you acetone and stir. This is basically an ice bucket for the tiny little 100ml or smaller glass beaker or equivalent. Put a bunch in, but keep some in the original container it came from. You just might need some later. Put one end of the tubing into the small glass or stainless steel container (I am using a 30 ml glass bottle that used to hold vape juice) and put the other end attached to the Gatorade bottle onto the bottle after you put a good 90 mgs of ammonia salt and same or a little more in lye. The more lye you use the drier your ammonia will be, drier is better. Close the lid and watch the wonder of chemistry happen before your eyes. Oh yeah, add the drop of water u normally add to Kickstart your bottle, close lid. It takes s little time for the bottle to fill, but I watched the whole time, amazed at it and the fact I never did this. Let me explain something to you shake and bakers. This is the original birch cook. I wouldn't put too much water in the Gatorade bottle because a fast moving runaway reaction will produce ammonia so fast that the ice might not cool it in time. The great thing about using anhydrous is that it only uses very very small amounts of lithium. I'm sure one or two of u caught that 3 battery per ounce line. Yeah, that's absolutely correct. After near an hour your little bottle should have near 30 ml of nh3 or even more. Sometimes I get even more, but I think that's my shitty old scales fault. I strongly recommend getting 100 ml beaker. I got mine at goodwill. Now this is for only up to a three gram coolk bc u need at least 10 ml of nh3 per gram of pfed. Grind your pills, put em in the beaker. Now pour the nh3 onto the powder and stir with rod and place the beaker half into the dry ice. Now take your lithium battery core out of its storage as you should have already taken the metal casing off the battery before even starting. the beaker, safe in the ice, , tear off a piece of metal, small, Keep the beaker halfway into the dry ice/acetone mix while you stir. Notice the royal Blue color. That is the color of the solvated electrons! I'm not talking some stupid shit here, this is real chemistry here! Now what you will see and want to see is that as u stir the blue fades right back to clear with the white pill powder whirling around. Repeat the lithium step from before. Stir. Repeat this process ONLY if when you place the beaker back in the ice and stir the dark blue color, nearly black, fades away back to white. It's fading back to white because it's reducing. If it's all reduced, the blue color will remain so If you put a piece in there and it stays blue, add no more, take the beaker out of the ice, keep stirring if u like. Notice as the ammonia evaporates, the lithium metal comes back from the TRUE li(nh3)4 form. It goes from blue to copper, to metal, then it breaks down and turns to a white powder. Add water to 20 ml, stir, and now, you add your favorite nonpolar. I prefer toluene or hexane , but naphtha is easy to find and works like a champ. Stir the shit out of these two fluids. Now siphon off the organic layer, aka the (eg )naphtha layer, leaving the water alone for now. That will all go to disposal. Now u take some hcl and sulfuric acid and if u drip drops of hcl into the h2so4 hcl gas will liberate.. Look whatever method u used before to gas or otherwise salt out ur product, that's what u do. Collect the product as before and enjoy. I forgot, if u have a problem w nh3 taste, when the beaker is done w reduction, as in the metal has gone white, add water, siphon off organic layer, pour into another bottle with water in it, shake and siphon the organic layer once separated. That's the water shake to remove the ammonia. The whole process the first time took 2 hours. The whole process the second time took 45 minutes. Product was much cleaner and I didn't have to use the permanganate wash not one time. Real fucking chemistry. That's WURFGURFS SHIT, NOT "Enso"s copyright infringement ass. Enjoy!
]]> Anyone tried using a drop or so of Naloxone(Norcan) in their meth shot? https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25550/anyone-tried-using-a-drop-or-so-of-naloxone-norcan-in-their-meth-shot Tue, 19 Jun 2018 02:56:00 +0000 Spurious Generalities lysolulene 25550@/bbs/discussions
So I was wondering, all you dabblers and IV meth use, has anybody considered trying or have tried throwing a little drop or two of naloxone in your shot. Naloxone does not affect any receptors in your brain that meth effects, so logically I'm thinking this could save lives.
Or is that just retarded? I don't know...]]> POTUS is the ANTICHRIST https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25559/potus-is-the-antichrist Sun, 15 Jul 2018 15:31:46 +0000 Spurious Generalities Scrawny 25559@/bbs/discussions
secrets-revealed-15-tips-to-help-you-correctly-identify-the-coming-antichrist-7-638.jpg?cb=1453566946

secrets-revealed-15-tips-to-help-you-correctly-identify-the-coming-antichrist-7-638.jpg?cb=1453566946

[video]

http://www.thehypertexts.com/Donald Trump Antichrist 666.htm

The Top Ten Reasons Trump is Anti (Against) Christ

Trump said that he never asks God for forgiveness, but "just tries to do better." That is to reject Jesus Christ as Savior and the only possible source of forgiveness for sin.
Trump claims to be a Christian, but has he ever said a single word about Jesus Christ? If so, I have yet to hear it. When Trump talks about "being a Christian" it is always about himself and what he does.
Trump claims to be the "only one" who can "save" Americans and the world from catastrophe. He is making himself out to be the Savior of the World!
Trump "exalts" and "magnifies" himself constantly, and speaks "marvelous things," just as the Bible predicts about the Antichrist.
Trump blatantly lies about "predictions" he made that "came true." That makes him a false prophet. For instance, he did support the war with Iraq, and he did not "predict" Osama bin Laden, but pooh-poohed the threat he posed!
Trump clearly loves Mammon (money), and he admits so himself. Jesus Christ said that a man cannot serve two masters: if he loves money, he will hate God.
Trump has made it abundantly clear that he has sex with as many "beautiful pieces of ass" as possible. He cheats on his wives then brags about his sexual conquests.
Trump has made it abundantly clear that he would order American soldiers to hunt down and murder women and children for purposes of "retribution" after terrorist attacks. Obviously, Jesus would not murder women and children.
Trump claims that he will negotiate peace between Israel and the Palestinians, but the Bible says that the Antichrist will ultimately betray Israel. Is Trump's plan to let Saudi Arabia obtain nukes that betrayal?
Trump worships himself. He becomes furious when he is criticized, even when the criticism is entirely valid. Has there ever been an ego as YUGE as Trump's, in the history of the world?

]]> Best Current Totse Clone: https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25525/best-current-totse-clone Fri, 16 Mar 2018 21:56:47 +0000 Spurious Generalities Cloudcat 25525@/bbs/discussions https://niggasin.space

Yes that’s a real URL lol.

It’s where the remaining totse member are. We need the old totse spirit back, Lanny’s site is the closest approximation out there right now, but it’s not a highly visible web space so it takes a while for people to find. Spread the word.

We got a bunch of the old members there but need more. To be honest, DFG’s personal blog totseans.com sucks. Nothing like the original totse. Come to niggasin.space. Alternatively, can also be found at igottabig.wang which redirects to the main site]]> We are the FREE TOTSE ARMY https://totseans.com/bbs/discussion/25557/we-are-the-free-totse-army Tue, 03 Jul 2018 12:53:43 +0000 Spurious Generalities Scrawny 25557@/bbs/discussions
Infinityshock, Scrawny the Ghost and Bling Bling have all been permabanned from Niggasin.space for 9 years for minor infractions.

We are declaring WAR Starting at dawn tomorrow, if you want to stand up against Lanny's tyranny please consider lending your account to the free totse army or spare an alt.

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