How To Make
Shroomery post/accidental book
So I’m not going to claim everything I say here is right. As I’ll explain later I never finished making my lsd, but I figured what I learned might help others. So yeah I’m kind of like Uncle Fester, but I’ll try not to be such a douche about it; if you disagree with something please let me know, I’ll check it out and if I’m wrong I’ll change it so if you could cite your arguments that’d be great. Also, sorry for the length, feel free to skip the story part, but I felt like I needed to type the rant. If you need any explanations of basic terms please let me know and I’ll explain it as best I can, although I’m really more of a half assed alchemist than a true chemist, so once again, feel free to correct me. Also forgive me if I leave things out throughout most of it and they pop up at the end, the bulk of this was written from memory, then I went back over some of the finer details with the synths. A lot of the time there will be steps that aren’t entirely necessary either, such as using nitric acid or co2, but try to follow it as close as possible, and DO YOUR RESEARCH so you know what is critically important and what isn’t.
1. materials and equipment.
You will need some good equipment, either some hpde plastic stuff, pyrex,
Borosilicate if you want to show off, or some other material that will withstand solvents, if you aren’t sure pour some solvent in it and wait a few days, pour it out onto a trusted evaporating dish ie just a pyrex bowl or something, and evaporate, if you used a clean solvent (evaporate a control solvent to make sure it dries without residue to compare to variable) then there should be nothing left over, but really if you are making LSD get yourself some real fucking lab equipment, no meth lab bullshit here please
You will need a few evaporating dishes, separatory funnels (I’d recommend at least two, but ideally a couple, some big ones for defatting and general extractions, and some smaller ones are nice imo to get a purer product, work with recrystallizations, etc), a chromatography column, funnels-glass is preferred, vacuum filtration setup, distillation equipment (optional-ish)
Magnetic stirrer/hotplate with stir bar-these can be pricey, and technically you CAN get away without them, but the yields and quality you will lose…well its not a great idea. Also you can find more ghetto DIY versions of these but…well look into all that crap yourself, if you don’t buy this you’re going to be sitting in a dark room shaking stuff for hours or just letting it sit and well if you’re committing to making lsd you might as well try to go for quality
You should really go for quality with your chemicals, since this stuff is active in the microgram range I’d recommend using KOH versus NaOH, sulfuric acid versus hydrochloric, etc (in general just follow what the synth calls for). There are some really good sources which discuss which chemicals are the best to use, and I’ll try to post those up if I find them (on the same note sometimes you might get confused reading a synth because they use certain terms or specific and more complicated procedures than what is really “necessary” so I’ll try to decipher some of it). There is some problem obtaining these, really if you are planning on making acid then you should already be able to obtain these/make them, but if you don’t I’ll explain more in depth later. Basically you need chemicals for acid base extractions, an elute for the column as well as sand, chips, a desiccant would be wise though there are other ways of evaporation (flash evaporator or rotovap would be awesome-just keep in mind that light air and heat need to be kept at a minimum here), “decoloring” activated carbon charcoal (I really recommend getting chemistry grade stuff here), diethyl ether should be used IMO, I wouldn’t mess with petroleum ethers for LSD (also DON’T spray that key starter fluid into a pipe or whatever, that’s bullshit, you need to actually learn how to make diethyl ether), and of course the big Diethylamine and a peptide coupling reagent, or anhydrous hydrazine or lithium (or other chemicals for other methods, but these are the popular guys, and the peptide is the easiest imo), also for some versions you don’t need to get diethylamine, so if you can’t obtain it, the next thing I would look for is DMF (dimethylformamide) or anhydrous hydrazine which can be extracted from ammonia (refer to otto snow’s book, a very good read even if you don’t need the hydrazine stuff btw)
Otto Snow: http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/4854…is_-_Otto_Snow
You also need to get some photography equipment, first off you need to make your “lab” as ligh proof as possible, get creative here but make sure your room is light proof, I recommend taking some film/developing paper and leaving it in the room for a few hours, maybe multiple pieces by the door, window or other possible leaks, developing it and seeing if any light has touched it (research weed grow room light proofing techniques as well as photography stuff). Second off you will need to get some yellow and red safe lights (not just any red or yellow light, get photographic safe lights, and I have read successful synths without these lights, but the yields and purity were definitely affected). You also need to get a true UV black light.
Some type of gas other than oxygen is required, I’m not sure but I think I’ve heard of other gasses being used, but nitrogen is the most common. To do this, simply go get a nitrogen tank for paintball guns. Now you might want to go all out and construct an airtight glovebox to rig this nitrogen tank up to, but it’s not required.
Also I highly recommend using good gloves, again testing them with solvents or buying chemist gloves, some type of goggles, covering up your skin as much as possible, and having some kind of hair net or hat, try to have a sterile, clean room, and be organized. Although it’s technically not “as important” than say having a sterile environment to inject spores, creating similar conditions and techniques are a good idea if you ask me, and if you are going to be messing around with hydrazine then you might as well get a gas mask or a good flowhood or really just look into safety procedures for it, although really you should check any and all chemicals you plan on using to see if you need to not breathe it in, adverse effects it can have, etc
So just to recap you will need
Labware such as evaporating flasks/dishes, a vacuum filtration setup, separatory funnels, various beakers/flasks/containers, possibly fractional distillation equipment
Chemicals-primarily- solvents such as ether, chloroform, etc, an elute, basifying and acidifying agents such as KOH and sulfuric acid, diethylamine or hydrazine (or other), other chemicals may be required/desired for your specific method of choice
Photographic safe lights, a lightproof room, and a UV black light
Magnetic stirrer/hotplate, and stir bar
Safety stuff like goggles, good dust mask/bandanna, hair net/hat/etc, ventilation/air purification like an ozone generator, etc
3. Obtaining materials and equipment
Option 1-get hookups, I’ve found that almost every lab has people who steal stuff and its really not too hard to find hookups on everything you need, I found several hookups, but decided against asking people to obtain stuff like diethylamine and ether for me, but sometimes hookups are the way to go
Option 2-order stuff
Okay so some of this information goes for obtaining pretty much anything illegal through the mail, and if you do stuff like order from ravesupply.biz, coca leaves, etc I’d really recommend using these techniques which have really worked for me.
First off you need an address, I mean if you’re thinking about ordering this stuff to your mom’s house…well c’mon man what’re you thinking? Also for the sake of stress minimization as well as security, the address shouldn’t be the same as the lab, and if you need to smuggle these things from your lab back and forth I suggest trying to use somewhat stealthy transportation-ie putting a few things in your backpack when you leave or something in an opaque empty bottle rather than going back to your car unloading your backpack twenty times in one evening, just generally don’t be a dumbass, fit the drugs in around your life, not your life in around the drugs
Second you need to get an all access gift card, make sure it can be used internationally. I just go get one at the gas station, usually pick one up when I’m in a different town just because I’m paranoid and that helps me rest easy (and I’m in different towns all the time so I figured I might as well), go online and put in some fake info, using a fake email, and if you really want to be safe do it all on some other computer, fuck you could even have someone else buy your gift card if you are that nervous about it. Honestly though you need to know when to take the extra precaution and when to say fuck it and relax a little, trying to be all ocd about it will drive you crazy
Third you need to buy. Sites such as Alibaba and Tradekey can be the answer to many of your problems here, but I have never used them personally. If you have the balls/smarts/stupidity then this can actually be the end of your quest for getting acid, as you can apparently buy lsd and/or lsd analogues from these types of sites. My friend used to get all sorts of research chemicals from alibaba and never had a problem, but I can’t comment on obtaining lsd or lsd analogues, diethylamine, ether, sulfuric acid, or other things from these sites, though I did get a very good source for HBWR from Indonesia on one of these sites, and the price was feasible for lsd production despite what the naysayers…uh naysay. Also I remember reading a thread where some dude was trying to get diethylamine and he said he successfully got it from tradekey or alibaba or something, and was planning on making acid with his friends, then was never heard from again-troll or was he caught? Idk
Also as a side note, if you are planning on ordering one of these analogues I really recommend you do some research and go with something like pro-lad or al-lad rather than DOM/DOC/STP or bromo dragonfly because I personally believe these are more linked to HPPD like symptoms and just generally what I’ve heard and seen first and second hand from them is that they’re more sketchy and besides tripping for almost a whole day on that shit kinda sucks, and can piss people off if they are counting on an eleven-ish hour trip and get a twenty-ish hour trip. If you are going this route I suggest you check out the sections on vials and blotter too.
Fourth-shipping and receiving. When you ship it make sure it has the same name on the card as the name you are shipping it to, don’t use any obviously fake name like John Anderson, just use the name of that douchebag you hate or your ex girlfriend JK, don’t do that, in fact I would say don’t ship it to any name that could be re routed, so make it generic-ish, but believable, somewhere in the middle. Now here’s the part that can save your ass even if you’ve fucked up everything else. When they deliver the package they may ask you to sign for it, most of the time this should be a tip off that something is wrong, as most places you would order from wouldn’t do this. If they ask you if its yours or if you knew it was coming or anything, of course deny it. Sign it with your real name, not the fake one, and take it but DON’T OPEN IT! I mean really you are most likely fine, but in all the stories I’ve read from both points of view, in order to really prosecute someone they deliver it and wait a little for you to open it then bust the door down so to speak. If you do not open the package for a day or so then just in case the cops are after you, they can’t really do anything about it-you do not have your name on the package, you shouldn’t have anything that they can bust you for at this address, you did not even sign the right name, and you didn’t even open it, there is nothing to tie you to this package whatsoever. Be careful though, don’t get cocky with this; I’ve read stories where people were shipping large amounts of drugs and when the packages were found the cops put surveillance on them for a few months before busting them. In that case you can probably claim you just threw away the package or even that some guy came and asked if you had his mail and you gave it to him. Whenever making up a story, think about what would probably happen, tell yourself that’s what happened and act accordingly, don’t have perfect details or anything too hazy either. If you are really paranoid about cops following you and all that crap then you can look into no tech hacking, surveillance techniques such as how to spot cars following you (sometimes in front of you!), but really learning that sort of thing only made me more paranoid. If you can spot an undercover and anything too out of place you’re probably good to go. Oh and also the whole thing about asking a cop if he is a cop and he has to tell you is a myth, just in case you didn’t know.
No Tech hacking: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CWrzVJYLWw
You should also have a good place to hide your crap, in which case I highly recommend reading Michael Connor’s How to Hide Anything. Seriously that book will show you how to hide an entire room if you need to! http://www.freecommonlaw.us/images/HIDING.pdf
Okay so this covers ordering stuff, but there are some things you either can’t, or just might not want to order. First and foremost there is the question of ergot.
4. Obtaining ergot
There are many ways to obtain the ergot alkaloids which the lysergic acid comes from. This problem, however, is probably the biggest one you’ll have to solve in order to make lsd.
1. One way that I think sounds pretty good is just getting ergotamine medications from mexico/overseas/online. Look up different medications and try to find one which you can easily extract the alkaloids from. I hear that cafergot, for example, is much harder to extract from than other medications. If you have a choice, try to get straight ergotamine tartrates or close with as little else as possible. Honestly I have no experience with this so I can’t offer as much as advice as I would like to.
2. The second way is just any source other than claviceps purpurea. The most famous of these alternative sources is of course the famous LSA seeds. The main three (there are more) seeds are the morning glory seeds which can be found at practically any walmart or lowes, Hawaiian Baby Woodrose, and Ololiuqui. There is a huge debate over the use of these seeds if you didn’t already know it. I have tried the LSA extractions of some of these seeds, which is awful imo, but I never tried to run it through a column, though someone I talked to who did said it was still not the same as doing the result of the same process with claviceps, so I don’t know. Also I read an interview with Owsley which claimed the lysergamides in the seeds are in fact different, but he mispronounced one or something and that caused confusion. Otto Snow, however, goes into quite a bit of detail on how to use these seeds, while I remember reading in the road to eleusis wasson or hoffman or someone saying that seeds can not simply go through hydrolysis because they have an extra clavine group or something. I’m sorry I really should have more facts about this, but I forgot about most of it, and honestly don’t really care. Like I said this is meant as a guide, if you want to use seeds then be my guest, but do your research. Also there has been some promising results from stipa robusta but again, if you are interested in all that, research it.
Some debates about the whole seed controversy: http://www.maps.org/old_forum/2003/msg00394.html
Road to Eleusis: http://ergotism.info/en/eleusis.pdf
Oh and as for your LSH questions, please, please just don’t mention that peppermint crap on here.
5. Here’s where a lot of people end up in their research with LSD. You can always grow ergot. Yeah, not the best idea for most. If you are going to do this, I suggest you research mycology a lot and grow quite a few harvests of shrooms first. I mean really if you can’t grow panaeolus, then how do you think you are going to grow ergot? Also Uncle Fester will tell you it can’t be done. Honestly I think he’s full of shit. I’ve read from sources I respect far more than Uncle Fester that it can be done and I’ve also seen some pictures of ergot cultures with the UV showing alkaloids present. If you want to be safer, or whatever, you can also go with the Uncle Fester method where you spray a field with ergot, but really I don’t think it’s necessary. If you go this route read Michael Valentine Smith’s section on growing an ergot culture. Honestly my knowledge on mycology is pretty pathetic, I can grow em and everything but talk about the fruiting bodies and all that and I quickly get lost. I repeat though, that if you want to grow the ergot fungus you should know your mycology shit first, really do your research because if you don’t you can end up with gangrene or saint anthony’s fire or something along those lines. Also I would just like to add that yes there are different types of ergot, different conditions, and just different luck, and the alkaloid content is pretty much impossible to really tell. I would think that if you are a good mycologist you could do it, but I suspect actually getting anything worthwhile from it may be beyond the reach of most. Oh and I checked Uncle Fester’s supposed facts and couldn’t find anything to back up his story, even when he says look up such and such…couldn’t find anything. (on the subject of Uncle Fester, he’s a good place to start, but be ready to basically forget everything he tells you.)
6. Here’s my method-finding them. Ok so I had never really planned on using this method for much other than to find the first few, but then it turned out well enough that I kept going. The first thing I did was look around my library, I quickly found a book about ergot in the agricultural section, and really most of the good info I found on it came from agricultural sources. From some cursory research I found that it grew primarily on rye and wheat, but I had no idea how to find a wheat or rye field. Looking around the library some more I found that the federal depository has agricultural records which show things such as rye and wheat production in certain counties. As luck would have it the county I lived in at the time was the highest producer of rye in the state. From there I kept searching until I found zoning maps online which show residential zones, commercial zones, and agricultural zones. From there I found more info on what type of environment ergot likes. Ergot, if I remember correctly, thrives in a hot dry summer after a cold wet winter. I think its usually on the eastern side of hills or something like that, sorry I can’t quite remember all the little details. Now I’d like to add that I always found it on the edges of certain areas and somewhat close to human influence, for example on the edge of a farm or the side of the road. There was a road that had it all along the side but as soon as it hit forest service land it was nowhere to be found. Also don’t necessarily look for the best grass, look for the right kind of grasses, then look for an area that may have been difficult for the grasses’ growth, because of course its all about infection, not optimal growth conditions. Now look for it during July and August and try to pick it when it gets to a decent size, but before it starts growing little “shrooms”. It really depends on your state, but really I’d just say whenever you find it wait a week or two, see where its at and pick it when it seems like its grown pretty big, probably towards the end of summer. Just keep looking around using these methods, finding the best county, best zone, best area in general, and get to picking. Once you start looking you’ll quickly learn which kind of grasses usually have it, and what type of area its in. For me it started out slowly but as I got used to it I could pick out a spot just driving by, check it out and get at least a few sclerotia, but eventually I found a jackpot. Also I have heard from people who worked grain mills that they throw out huge piles of the stuff, but I never had any luck snooping around grain elevators, so I’d say you need to have a hookup that works there if you try that. Also my friend said he’d hook me up with some cool stoner farmers but it never happened, so I guess that could be an option too. If you want my advice though, don’t use social networking if you can help it.
4. Obtaining Chemicals and equipment
This will have a little overlap with some of the other things already discussed, but the second biggest obstacle next to obtaining ergot is obtaining certain chemicals and equipment required for the synthesis.
Diethylamine and Diethyl Ether are the tougher chemicals to obtain. You can, as previously mentioned, order them on sites like alibaba. I have found many other sites like the droolingly awesome Cole Parmer which have them, but most of these sites will require all sorts of documents and identification, and will only ship to a commercial address, so if your dad/brother/cousin/friend is a chemistry professor with a store maybe you can pull this off, but for the most part its not going to happen. The main chemical supplier I would use would be Gallade. When I last looked through their stuff it seemed like the best way to obtain some really good stuff, and indeed you can find products like sulfuric acid on sites like this and get it delivered without any ID check, while another similar site will restrict it. Also you will find all sorts of paranoid people spout about these being watched blah blah blah, but actually from my research these are common enough chemicals that they can be obtained with little suspicion unless you ordered all your shit with the same name or something stupid like that.
Cole parmer: http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/catalog_toc.asp
For some of the other supplies such as KOH and sulfuric acid you can order them from a biodiesel site fairly easily, although really there are actually many places to obtain them; I’ve even seen sites for basic chemistry sets which had these types of things available.
Biodiesel supply: http://utahbiodieselsupply.com/chemicals.php
Also if you don’t already know it, lowes has some very good stuff, I’ve taken a trip to lowes for everything from weed growing supplies to solvents to ph meters, etc, etc
If you can’t/don’t want to order these you can actually make them from other materials more easily obtained. The main skill you would need to do this is fractional distillation. Basically the starting material is heated and part of it condensates, filtering off the rest…sort of, I don’t explain it that well. I have read that distillation equipment is illegal and you need a license to buy it, but I have found many listings for it on ebay with no ID required or anything (by the way, buying used items is often the way to go, as many people don’t realize the restrictions and the rules aren’t enforced, and you can always set up a paypal and ebay with your fake card and email, etc). There are many sources on distilling ethanol to get ether, and many sources claim that distilling DEET (just order 100% pure DEET repellant) will give you diethylamine. Honestly that sounds a little sketchy to me because I have never seen the exact temperature required even though fractional distillation should be used, and with something as potent as LSD I don’t think I would want to risk using DEET. From what I’ve read the science is legit, but I personally would much rather use diethylamine from china or something if I could find it. If you don’t want to find diethylamine or mess with DEET, there are many other synths starting from lysergic acid which do not require it. My favorite source (if you couldn’t already tell) is Michael Valentine Smith’s Psychedelic Chemistry, which has many other syntheses listed, many of which use lysergic acid and DMF (dimethylformamide). Also there are the famous lithium and anhydrous hydrazine methods. If you want to go the hydrazine route I suggest you extensively read safety information about it, or at least otto snow’s book.
As for all the other equipment you can easily find it on sites like eBay or even craigslist. Research into the equipment is a must, and can really save you a lot of money if, for instance, you almost buy a vacuum filtration pump when you find out for hundreds less you could just hook it up to the faucet.
Okay, this should be pretty brief, but it is very important. Certain stages in the process are very sensitive to heat, light, and even oxygen. I’ve already mentioned that the room needs to be completely light proof (or as close as you can get it, I mean the less light that makes it into the room the better it is for you down the road, but if you really don’t care as much about the purity of the product or the yield then its not absolutely critical.)
My first idea when I heard that it needed to be in a nitrogen atmosphere was to build a glovebox with a nitrogen tank attached. This approach could actually mean you don’t have to have a completely light proof room either, so long as your glovebox was pretty light and air proof. Of course there would be many ways to build a glovebox, and I’m not at all an expert on them. There are many glove box designs for shrooms of course, but I haven’t personally seen one that would work well for LSD manufacture. I would start with finding a decent wood (no plywood imo, you wouldn’t want any flakes or dust in your lsd), really sealing it tight, finding a good plastic or glass for the side or top, perhaps which slides for access, of course some good, long gloves well sealed into the side, an attached nitrogen tank on one side and a squirrel cage fan on the other side which blows air out a hole which can be sealed off once the atmosphere is more nitrogen than oxygen. I would also put in a thermometer to make sure the temperatures inside of the case were ok, since the inside of the box may be a different temperature than outside, especially when introducing some type of sand oil ice or steam bath. This glove box approach would allow you to do huge parts of the synthesis at once, even leave your work for a while if the seal is good enough, and it would help give you a better quality product.
Many people, however, simply displace the oxygen with the nitrogen and cover it. This need for a nitrogen atmosphere means you need to change certain processes like evaporation of course, and an evaporation dish might work well in a glove box, but an evaporation flask would be a better idea, and vacuum filtration is pretty much essential as slower filtration methods would seriously affect things (among other reasons of course).
Certain times need certain safelights, and I will explain this further at the appropriate time, though really I think that if you did it quickly in really low light and then let it stir in pitch blackness you’d be fine, although you might have to isomerize more at the end.
Always keep in mind too the potency of lsd, so something as small as pulling out a hair from the product could mean a significant loss of yield and some accidents may hurt purity etc, so imo you should try to have a pretty sterile and organized workspace.
6.HERE WE GO
Okay so there are quite a few ways to go about this. A lot of the older, well known methods like Hoffman’s and Shulgin’s are pretty good in certain ways, but the method most people seem to go by now is often called the novel Kasey Hardison method or something along those lines. It actually wasn’t invented by him at all (and I don’t mean anything against him, its just that people often spread misunderstandings). Actually I read through many syntheses, learning the same ones from different sources without even knowing it, and I soon realized the peptide coupling method Kasey is somewhat known for was done a long time ago and there are actually all sorts of “twists” on that general method. Anyways, this synthesis is ideal imo for the small time aspiring syd chemist as the cost is fairly low, materials and procedures are pretty basic, and with a little isomerization it will give good yield and purity. Also it builds very nicely off of the skills used in acid base extractions, so basically if you can make some bomb ass DMT you can probably make some pretty good LSD.
EDIT:Also in keeping with the spirit of things, explaining anything and everything (not trying to be condescending, just trying to be descriptive) I figured I should give a brief description of acid base extractions. Basically acid base extractions work on the principles of density and ph. You can change the ph of certain things within some mixture/solution by adding something like NaOH(sodium hydroxide) or KOH (potassium hydroxide) can lower the ph of certain things (I believe it has something to do with attaching to a nitrogen or carbon ring or something? I forget the details) while it does not affect others. You can also acidify certain things as well. Alkaloids will change ph while the other stuff does not, so you basically switch it back and forth, drawing out the alkaloids and throwing out the other stuff. This basic idea of chemistry is sometimes referred to as shit in shit out or junk in junk out. Acid base extractions may start and/or end with either a base or with an acid. Usually it just depends on the alkaloids desired and the desired end form of that product. For example, I have read that mescaline would be an oil in an acidic state (I think its in the acid state) but most people prefer to have it as a solid crystal/powder form. Basically all acid base extractions start with a defatting step (although sometimes it is seen as optional for low fat materials like mimosa hostilis) where the fat is separated out as much as possible, then solvents and switching back and forth between acid and base forms are used, the solvents are evaporated or otherwise filtered away and the alkaloid or “elf spice” is obtained. To obtain Lysergic acid, the alkaloids are extracted through acid base methods, and the alkaloids are all lysergamides (LSA) which undergo hydrolysis to cleave the amide/amine and leave pure lysergic acid which can then be bonded to diethylamine via a peptide coupling reagent to give lysergic acid diethylamide (btw as a shortcut just think of amines and amides as sort of negative and positive rings, sorta-but that’s why you use diethylamine and come out with diethylamide).
This process basically goes
1. extract ergotamine alkaloids
2. hydrolize alkaloids
3. run through a chromatography column
4. couple with diethylamine
5. analyze under UV, isomerize iso-lsd,
6. put into solvent for a vial, optionally put onto blotter
basic procedures you need to know and different ways to do the peptide coupling method
I personally like Michael Valentine Smith’s Psychedelic Chemistry as my main source, but also a lot of the rhodium sources are very good. If you are seriously considering making LSD though you should really try to read as many synths as you can, even full syntheses like professor buzz can really help imo. I’d recommend reading Albert Hoffman (&Arthur stoll) patents, shulgin’s Tihkal (and hell you might as well read pikhal), the psychedelic guide to the preparation of the eucharist, otto snow is a must read, uncle fester is a good read but not really a good source to follow for the synths and stuff (take him with a grain handful of salt)
eating). Cool, acidify with dilute sulfuric acid and shake in separatory funnel with 1 L ether. Discard the upper ether layer and filter with vacuum the aqueous suspension of lysergic acid (I). Wash precipitate with 20 ml dilute sulfuric acid. To recover the small amount of (I) remaining in solution, basify with Na carbonate and bubble C02 through it. Filter and add precipitate to first batch. Some isolysergic acid will remain in solution and can be precipitated by adding 10% HNO3 (nitric acid). It can be converted to (I) by adding 3 ml 10% KOH for each 0.1 g acid, boiling on steam bath for one hour under N2 (if possible) and precipitating by acidifying with glacial acetic acid. Maximum yield is about 9 g (I) for 20 g ergotamine.
A shorter method of hydrolysis which may work as well follows: dissolve 20 g alkaloid in 300 ml methanol and 300 ml 40% KOH and reflux two hours under N2 (if possible). Cool, saturate with CO2 and evaporate in vacuum. Extract the residue with hot ethanol three times and dry, evaporate in vacuum the combined ethanol extracts to get (I). Under ordinary conditions, about 20% of (I) will be converted by the action of hot water, etc., to the inactive isolysergic acid. Most of this remains in solution and can be isomerized to (I) as described above, or it can be converted to iso-LSD by any of the methods described later and isomerized to LSD (see method 1). It is unnecessary to purify (I), but this can be done as follows: dissolve 9 g (I) in 20 ml NH4OH (ammonium hydroxide), filter and concentrate in vacuum at room temperature to precipitate (I). After filtering, the grey crystals can be further purified by dissolving in boiling water(always use distilled water!) and cooling in ice bath to precipitate (I). Melting point should be about 240o (decomposes). Alternatively, the dark-colored (I) resulting from hydrolysis can be shaken with 2×400 ml 2 M NH4OH in ethanol, and the combined extracts evaporated in vacuum to give (I). Dissolve the remaining residue in 500 ml hot methanol, cool to 0ø and filter out the (I) (recrystallize-water). Can remove colored impurities by shaking solution with decolorizing carbon (activated carbon charcoal-buy chemistry grade) and filtering. Recently a method for increasing the yield of (I) about 10% using 2.5% hydrazine hydrate was described (CA 69,36323(1968)). Dissolve 7 g alkaloid in 200 ml 6 N KOH in methanol and 200 ml ethanol, add 10 ml hydrazine hydrate and boil four hours under N2 (if possible) and proceed as above. Finally, the (I) must be thoroughly dried by heating at about 110ø/1 mm for two hours or 150ø if ordinary lab vacuum of 15 mm is used. A forced water vacuum (about 25 mm) can be used here as elsewhere. An oil bath (e.g., mineral oil) will allow temperature regulation.
(this is the peptide synth described my Michael Smith, but now the more popular version uses a bop such as pybop as described by casey hardison)
Add 134 mg (0.5 mM) dry (I), 103 mg (0.SmM) N,N-dicyclohexylcarbo- diimide, 90 mg (0.67mM) 1-hydroxybenzotriazol (N-hydroxybenzotriazol) and 0.5 mM diethylamine to 2.5 ml CH2Cl2 and 2.5 ml tetrahydrofuran and stir in the dark at 20ø C for 24 hours. filter, wash precipitate with CH2Cl2 and evaporate the filtrate at 15 mm Hg, 30ø C to get LSD.
Casey Hardison’s method-also I would like to mention that if you follow the recommendations of the psychedelic guide to the preparation of the eucharist, then you should use yellow light when the lysergic acid is added and red light when the diethylamine is added IF I’M NOT MISTAKEN. Really all those types of procedures will help with yields and purity, so if you do not do them you can just do more isomerization at the end 😛 (also might want to look into epimerization). In general always try to protect it from light, excessive heat, oxygen, and keep anhydrous (“dry”) conditions. Every time you fail to do this its like setting a timer, letting it degrade, so the more you protect it, the better yields and purity (also one last note here-“purity” in lsd manufacture can sometimes be almost interchangeable with yields since you can convert lumi and iso lsd, but the “true” purity comes from the purity of the extractions and hydrolysis, as well as the quality of the chemicals which is why recrystallization etc is essential.)
2.80 grams of lysergic acid was added to 100 ml of magnetically stirring CH2Cl2. To this was added 1.81 grams N,N-diethylmethylamine and the solution was allowed to stir for five minutes. Then 5.70 grams of PyPOB was added and the solution was allowed to stir for an additional five minutes. Then 0.84 grams of diethylamine was added and the reaction was allowed to stir at RT for 60 minutes
(anytime you see stir like this it means the magnetic stirrer)
The reaction mixture was quenched with 100 ml of 7.5M concentrated NH4OH, the layers were separated and the aqueous phase was then thrice extracted with 30 ml CH2Cl2 (dichloromethane), the organic layers were combined and rotary evaporated at 35°C under high vacuum.
The residue was dissolved in 40 ml of cold saturated NaHCO3(bicarbonate of soda-“baking soda”) and extracted thrice with 20 ml EtOAc (ethyl acetate), the organic layers were combined and washed with deionized H2O (purified water, like distilled but well, deionized of course lol) , brine, and then dried over MgSO4(magnesium sulfate), filtered and rotary evaporated at 40°C under high vacuum to a constant weight. Yield 3.13 grams before chromatography, 93%.
Another run of 5.12 grams lysergic acid with the same amines, equivalents, and times, yielded 5.55 grams after chromatography, 90%.
Now if you are going to do this method, I highly suggest you run it through a column and separate out the iso-lsd and isomerize, because it has more iso-lsd than many other methods, and isomerization will mean better purity and much higher yields of psychoactive lsd.
The dry iso-LSD base can then be dissolved in methanol and potassium methoxide added. The resulting mixture is stirred for about
30 minutes. During this time isomerization takes place; about 70% of the iso-LSD is converted into the desired “normal” form of
LSD. The methanolic solution is poured into a separatory funnel containing salt water solution and ethylene dichloride. The salt
water layer is repeatedly extracted with ethylene dichloride to separate the LSD base from the water-base mixture. The ethylene
dichloride extracts are combined, dried with MgSO4, decolorized and filtered. The ethylene dichloride solution is then evaporated to
dryness under reduced pressure. The resulting dry LSD base is chromatographed on basic alumina (activity grade 1) as previously
described. The blue band is collected as before, evaporated and converted into the tartrate salt. The iso-LSD band may be collected
and saved for further re-cycling. NOTE: If you only have mother liquors to isomerize, the second mixing with potassium methoxide
is unnecessary. Simply prolong the initial mixing to about 1/2 hour
Here are some notes you may find helpful. For this method stuff like recrystallization is really crucial, you need to get your lysergic acid as pure as you can, which is why being able to make good dmt will come in handy.
3. Recrystallization Procedure
The crude tartrate (10 g) is placed in a 125 ml Erlenmeyer flask and boiling methanol (50 ml) is added and the mixture stirred and
heated for a minute or two (no longer) until solution is complete. The hot solution is quickly filtered through a previously warmed
buchner funnel and the filtrate cooled immediately by swirling in a cold water bath until the temperature drops to 25ø C.
Crystallization should be well on the way by this time. The mixture is further cooled to 5 to 10øC and then to -10 to -20øC as
previously described, to complete the crystallization. Recovery is between 50 and 70%.
4. Additional Crops of Crystals
The mother liquors from initial crystallizations and from re-crystallizations of LSD can be concentrated by evaporation under
reduced pressure to produce additional crops of crystals. The second and third crops of crystals are usually dirty enough to require re-
crystallization. After three crops, the mother liquors usually become very syrup-like. They then contain mostly iso-LSD (as the
tartrate salt). The iso-LSD salt can be converted back into the base by the addition of methanolic KOH or potassium methoxide to
the mother liquor. The resulting mixture should be added to a separatory funnel containing salt solution and ethylene dichloride. The
LSD base is extracted into the ethylene dichloride layer (the lower layer). The lower layer is removed and fresh ethylene dichloride
used to extract the last traces of LSD base from the salt water-base mixture. The ethylene dichloride extracts are combined, dried
with MgSO4, decolorized and filtered through diatomaceous earth as earlier. The resulting ethylene dichloride solution may be
combined with the chloroform solutions of iso-LSD which eluted from the chromatographic column. The combined solution may be
evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure.
5. Notes on changing the scale of reactions:
The ergotamine to lysergic acid reaction may be scaled up or down by multiplying the quantities involved by a proportionality
constant: all quantities should be multiplied by the same constant. It has been found that the quantities of water and potassium
hydroxide used in the hydrolysis of ergotamine are not particularly critical and their relative concentrations may be varied somewhat
to meet other considerations. As a rule, ergotamine should be hydrolysed with about a 1.5 to 2.5 molar potassium hydroxide
solution. The lysergic acid to lysergic acid amide reaction has been designed to utilize minimal quantities of solvents in order to
squeeze as much material as possible into ordinary laboratory glassware. Some workers have suggested that the quantity of
dichloromethane (or chloroform) can be further reduced and still effectively extract the amide, but this may prove difficult,
especially if emulsions are encountered. When scaling down the reaction, if desired, the quantities of methanol, dimethylformamide,
saline solution, and dichloromethane may be in greater quantity than calculated by direct proportion to the other reagents. The
proportional relationship between lysergic acid, lithium hydroxide and sulfur trioxide must be strictly adhered to. The molar
proportions are: lysergic acid, 1 mole; lithium hydroxide, 1 mole; sulfur trioxide, 2 moles. Diethylamine should be added in at least
five molar equivalents. 6.5 equivalents are used in the example given. In general, two thirds of the dimethylformamide should be
distilled off from the lithiumlysergate solution. It is convenient to do the reaction in a small quantity of dimethylformamide if doing
large quantities of lysergic acid since the product is contained in smaller volume and extraction may be done with less solvent.
6. Notes on purification of amide
The chromatography detailed in the example has been used and works fairly well, however, the removal of all colored impurities is
not achieved and there is room for improvement. It is suggested that further experimentation be done to improve the process. An
ultraviolet light is indispensable when doing experimentation with these compounds. The lysergic acid amide displays a blue
fluorescence. Benzene has been used successfully as an eluant on activity 4 alumina, but the results were no better than the example
given. Chloroform and chloroform-benzene mixtures also have been used on varying grades of alumina but no useful data is
7. Notes on crystallization of tartrate
Methanol and methanol-ether mixtures have both been used to crystallize the amide tartrate. Crystallization proceeds more readily if
ether is present. Usually, the quantity of solvent from which the tartrate is crystallized should be around 4.0 to 6.0 times the weight
of the free base amide (in grams) expressed in milliliters. For example, if the free base lysergamide weighs 20 grams, then the
crystallization should be done in 80 to 120 milliliters of solvent. The purer the free base amide, the less solvent that may be
effectively used and the higher the yield. The solvent is reagent grade methanol containing 10% to 25% ethyl ether. It is usually
preferable to dissolve the amide in the methanol and then to add the ether. Ether should not be added after the tartaric acid is added
Ok so hopefully by now you have what you need to really get going. I started typing this out as a post but saved it in word, and by the time I was done…holy shit! I made a short book! Lol. Is this the first book-post? Idk.
I deleted some of the sources inside the quote in order to be under the max char. Just click the link, its all there with photos, videos and EVERYTHING.