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The Care and Feeding of Handcuffs


All stories on this web site are purely FICTIONAL. The people depicted within these stories only exist in someone's IMAGINATION. Any resemblence between anyone depicted in these stories and any real person, living or dead, is an incredible COINCIDENCE too bizarre to be believed. If you think that you or someone you know is depicted in one of these stories it's only because you're a twisted perverted little fucker who sees conspiracies and plots where none exist. You probably suspect that your own MOTHER had sex with ALIENS and COWS and stuff. Well, she didn't. It's all in your head. Now take your tranquilizers and RELAX.

The Care and Feeding of Handcuffs

Handcuffs as restraints have been around a long time. It is, perhaps, safe
to say that only recently have they become an adjunct to intimate sexual
contact. The handcuffs discussed here are not the tin toys that can be found
in a toy store, nor the "mink-lined love cuffs" we often see illustrated
in adult oriented catalogs. The handcuffs I refer to here are those intended
for use by police and security officers - heavy duty equipment.
Expensive? Yes, they are. But then they won't fall apart at the slightest
bit of feigned (?) resistance to them. The more expensive variety are intended
for long, reliable use, and, importantly, safety. The two leading brands of
quality handcuffs are Smith & Wesson and Peerless. For these brands, you can
expect to pay between $20.00 and $50.00, depending on the material (steel,
stainless steel or [hard to find] the aluminum model that Smith & Wesson used
to offer). Another factor affecting price is the finish (steel, brushed chrome
or black phosphate). Also, a new offering by Peerless and a few other companies
is the hinged handcuff that restricts movement even more - these being the
top-of-the-line and state-of-the-art.
A word of warning, one of many to come, is that handcuffs cannot, CANNOT,
be merely slapped on the wrist as we often see in movies and on television. The
human wrist is made up of numerous small bones. To strike the wrist with the
edge of the hinged bow would subject the recipient to bruises, at the least,
and fractures, in the worst case. The proper method of application (especially
with a subject willingly allowing their application) is to push the bow arm
through it's ratchet phase and free it. Open the cuff and PLACE it on the
wrist, then close the bow. The bow should be closed on top of the finger or
thumb of the person applying the handcuff - no more. Damage to tendons,
ligaments, nerves, bone and the blood supply may very well result. If your
subject's wrists are too small use another restraint method because the
handcuffs will merely fall off the first time the wrists are lowered. Wrists
too large for handcuffs? Then use either leg irons, the larger capacity
handcuffs to be found through some sources or a non-handcuff restraint.
After the handcuffs are applied, leaving that space between the inside
of the bow and the subject's wrists, they can still close up to the point of
being dangerously tight. To prevent this from happening, a device called a
'Double Lock' is provided with good handcuffs. There is a small pin visable
on the top edge of the handcuff body. This pin is pressed down with the
extended tip on the handcuff key. Activating the Double Lock will prevent
the handcuff from both closing any tighter or being opened without the key
in most circumstances. To deactivate the Double Lock, the key must be turned
first in the direction opposite the ratchet release and then back to the
ratchet release position. The Double Lock will keep the handcuffs from getting
tighter when even great pressure is placed on it - use it to prevent injury.
Handcuffs are pretty forgiving devices. They sometimes do require some
slight maintenance. Kept clean and dry, no further attention is needed. Any
moisture or contaminating material will require cleaning and lubrication. A
mild lubricant such as 3-In-1 oil or WD-40 sprayed into the lock hole and
onto the bow hinge will keep the handcuffs operating reliably. Excess oil
or lubrication is to be avoided as this attracts dust and is rather messy.
If you manage to find used handcuffs, buy with care. Handcuffs marked
as being made in Japan, Mexico, Spain or Taiwan are to be avoided. English
and West German handcuffs are now appearing here and, though used, are quite
reliable although they may have a unique key that would be difficult to
obtain a replacement for. Another oddity is the Smith & Wesson 'High Security'
handcuff. This uses an Ace-type lock and key and was to be the ultimate for
high-risk prisoners...until an enterprising felon found he could pick them
with a metal pocket clip for a ballpoint pen. This 'cuff was dropped from the
S&W line but may be around in flea markets, gun shows and such.
The leg irons I mentioned are designed as basic handcuffs but they are
larger to accomodate the ankles and they have a long length of chain as opposed
to the 3 - 4 links that most handcuffs have. Peerless is the only manufacturer
to produce these and they cost approximately $40 - $50.00, if purchased through
a police supply outlet. To purchase any of these items at an Adult or Novelty
Store can add a great deal to the price.
All quality handcuffs, purchased new, are supplied with 2 keys. Don't
take either of them for granted. Anyone knowing any Police Offciers has
probably heard of the 'classic police call' of having to go to someone's
bedroom to free a lover in jammed handcuffs or handcuffs for which they
discovered there was no key! Police do not hand over their own key at your door
to let you use it and come back - they are duty bound to see who is handcuffed
and assure their safety...regardless what the subject is or is not wearing,
regardless if the subject is restrained in the little dungeon room the two of
you built for play, no matter what - the cop will take the cuffs off himself.
DON'T LOSE THE KEYS! DON'T APPLY THE HANDCUFFS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHERE BOTH KEYS
ARE! DON'T USE TOO MUCH PRESSURE TO UNLOCK THE KEY - you will jam the cuffs
with a broken key!! (Night & weekend calls for locksmiths usually run $60.00
and up and the locksmith may have to contact the police). Keys are sold in
police supply stores but you will probably need a badge to get them. The small
lip on the key, the vertical post in the handcuff keyhole are all weak links -
don't abuse them.
Finally, don't leave handcuffs anywhere where children can reach them.
Children will hurt each other with them or lock each other up in them
(thigh-cuffing themselves, as Bill Cosby once said) and then jam the lock
with anything from chewing gum to a screwdriver. Don't leave your sub in
the handcuffs, unattended. Common sense? Yes, it is, but many people need to
be reminded of this basic, inviolable, rule. Don't leave your handcuffs out
in the open, on your car seat, or <!> hanging from your rear view mirror.
Cops are a suspicious lot and would love to jack you up and question you as
to why you have them...to determine if you are a terrorist or stick-up man
(or woman).
As with any other piece of hardware we adapt to our "Special Needs" and
uses, common sense will take you a long way if you stop to think first. The
writer declines any liability for your misuse of this information and further
strongly suggests you use this information with common sense and caution,
in addition to a degree of concern for your sub.
 
To the best of our knowledge, the text on this page may be freely reproduced and distributed.
If you have any questions about this, please check out our Copyright Policy.

 

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