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Pillory Design 1 of 2
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From alt.sex.bondage Wed Apr 15 12:32:44 1992
Subject: Pillory design [1 of 2]
Lines: 221
Posted in two parts, as it is a rather long and detailed design solution
with notes on construction, variations and use.
Maple <wi.3959> asks:
> Well, okay, failing that, has anyone ever attempted to build an actual
> pillory (as opposed to an all-purpose spanking bench, suspension frame,
> and printer stand)? If so, do you have any advice for the beginning
> carpenter? We live in an apartment, which makes the equation slightly
> more difficult, since anchoring a pillory would seem to me to be the
> name of the game... and pouring concrete is *out*!
Additionally, I will assume you have no access to welding, foundry, or
major machinery. The material of choice is thus wood with a few metal
findings, and you do have a bit of an anchoring problem, although not an
insoluble one.
Pre-made pillories are hard to find and daunting in expense, but they are
not difficult to make. This design differs from the excellent one Mr. Feely
posted in the following respects: it is infinitely adjustable [fractions of
an inch] throughout most of its range, uses the bottom's weight for
stability, and has more variations in actual use. The entire unit may be
disassembled to easily storable parts in less than 20 minutes by sliding
out the crossbar assembly and unbolting the uprights from the platform.
> I'm still puzzling as to the best distance for the openings for the
> wrists (relative to the opening for the neck) and the best height -
If the wrist openings are to be close around the wrists, it is best to stay
with a distance that keeps the elbows bent at right angles or slightly
wider. The arms tend to cramp if the wrists are tightly held too near to
the head. If the wrist openings are wide enough to allow some arm movement,
the arms may be stretched widely with no ill effects. But why settle for
either? The design below includes both.
> My mind reels at the thought of having a stable pillory with
> adjustable height!
Hmm-mm, really? :-)
Well, not being one to leave you hanging at the end of a line,
[particularly that one] let me draw in a picture. The following is the best
design I have created within your limits above, is secure, relatively
inexpensive, and adjustable. All materials may easily be obtained at the
shops mentioned in your posting. Measurements are in the old English
system, as I still think in it, but the conversions are simple. If you
increase the thickness of any of the wooden parts, remember to change the
length of bolts and other fasteners accordingly. The wood may be clear
pine, but poplar or any quality hardwood you can afford will increase the
strength considerably. The dimensions listed for the uprights work best
with hardwoods, if you cannot obtain any, use a wider upright, perhaps 3 x
6 instead of 2 x 4.
Materials required:
1 large sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, preferably 4 x 8 feet [minimum 4 x 5 feet]
2 Boards 1 & 1/2 thick x 8 inches wide x 5 feet long [thicker if possible]
4 2 x 4 inches x 6 feet long 'clear framing lumber'
1 Steel Strap hinge with each strap at least 4 inches long
4 [or more] long heavy screws for attaching the strap hinge
12 Heavy duty steel right-angle brackets [L-Brackets] 8 inch min. side length
36 1 & 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch carriage bolts with nuts and washers.
36 2 & 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch carriage bolts with nuts and washers.
2 6 & 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch carriage bolts with nuts and washers.
8 6 & 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch carriage bolts with *wing-nuts and washers.
*[At first, I called these thumbscrews, and funny, I still prefer that term]
Tools required:
Saw, pencil, wood rasp, drill and drill bits, socket set or wrench, a
driver for the screws, sandpaper. An electric saw and drill will move this
project along nicely, but are not required.
Optional:
Wood finishes, wood chisel, a few bits of leather, straps, eyebolts, hasp
and lock, hammer. Additional wood parts may be needed for the variations
listed at the end of the second half of this design.
These are the two main pieces you will be constructing [not to any exact
scale]
Crossbar assembly
##################################################################
|# #
h |# #### #
i |# __ __ # # __ __ # h
n o ___# #______# #______ # #______# #______# #_____ a
g |# __ __ # # __ __ # s
e |# #### # p
|# #
##################################################################
### Platform and uprights ###
#+# #+# thumbscrew end
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
#+# #+# thumbscrew end
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
left upright # # # # right upright
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
#+# #+# thumbscrew end
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
# # # #
#*# #*# bolt & nut end
# # # #
|#*#| |#*#|
L-brackets |#*#| |#*#| L-brackets
____|#*#|___ platform ____|#*#|____
############################################################
Partial Side View after assembly
## ##
## ##
##----##+ bolt and thumbscrew
## __ ##
##| |##
##| |##
##|__|## Crossbar assembly squeezed between upright halves
##| |##
##| |##
## -- ##
## ##
## ##
##----##+ bolt and thumbscrew
## ##
[section of drawing removed for space considerations]
## ##
##----##* 3/8 inch bolt and nut
## ##
*|##* *##|*1/4 inch bolts through L-bracket & upright half
*|##* *##|*
*|##* *##|*
platform ____|## ##|___ bottom stands or kneels here
################################################################
NOTE: The front-back offset shown here need not be as severe if you use a
sufficiently long platform. The uprights can be mounted centrally on an
eight foot long section of plywood, the above diagram is merely showing the
worst case. This design uses the weight of the bottom for increased
platform stability, and the longer the platform, the better the weight
distribution.
Measurements needed:
Measure the neck, the wrists [both width and depth], and the right angle
and stretched distances for wrist holes mentioned above. These are
important, for when you are building a custom device there can be no
excuses for a poor fit. The length of the uprights should be at least six
inches higher than the height of the bottom's wrists while standing with
the arms bent at eye level, six feet has worked well for my past
construction.
Construction Details:
Crossbar Assembly-
Lay both of the 5 foot boards flat with their ends even and with the best
of the long edges touching. Mark the positions for the wrist and neck holes
on both boards as shown above, but use your own measurements. Removing
equal half-circle sections from both boards is more difficult, but gives a
better fit and is more esthetic, IMNSHO. Necks are circular in section,
while wrists are oval, adjust your sawing and rasp work to take this into
account. A tight fit on the neck should be avoided for safety reasons,
IMHO, as the hole need only be small enough to prevent the head from being
drawn through it. When removing wood for the wrist and neck holes, use a
drill bit just inside the marking line for the holes and the saw or chisel
to connect the drilled holes. Smooth the curves with the wood rasp.
After the holes are large enough and basically smooth, consider lining them
with a bit of leather or cloth for extended comfort, if not, then very
carefully smooth the wood and round the outside edges before using any
modern wood finish. Allow this to dry for at least 48 hours longer than the
manufacturer recommends, as few manufacturers have damp skin in mind when
formulating finishes. The near sides of the two outer wrist holes should be
angled towards the body to avoid chafing, but you can easily improve on
this later if you do not at first get this quite right.
Once the holes are finished and tested for proper fit, fasten the straps of
the strap hinge to the ends of the boards so the boards go flat together
and separate easily. If the straps are longer than the board edges, pound
them over and secure the tips to the upper and lower edges of the board.
Depending on the hinge design, you may need to remove the inner corners of
the two boards near the hinge to make it work properly. Once you have this
working, you may put a hasp and lock on the other end, although this is not
strictly necessary for security, it does look rather nice. The flexible
part of the hasp should be mounted on the upper half of the crossbar.
[concluded in next posting 'Pillory design [2 of 2]' to follow immediately]
##################################################################
a missive from
"That grim, fierce, dominant fellow, grrr ... grr ... <grin>"
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