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Pillory Design 2 of 2
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From alt.sex.bondage Wed Apr 15 12:32:47 1992
Subject: Pillory design [2 of 2]
Lines: 215
NOTE: This is the conclusion of a practical pillory design, if you missed
the first posting, look for the title 'Pillory design [1 of 2]'.
Continuing the requested construction details-
Uprights and platform:
Each 'upright' is made of two 'upright halves', separately secured to the
platform. Cutting the uprights perfectly square and mounting them properly
is perhaps the most difficult aspect of this construction. Using one
L-bracket as a square, mark the ends of the 2 x 4s to the measurements
above and cut all four very exactly to the same length.
Place the upright half squarely on a stable surface, place an L-bracket on
a wider side of the upright half and align the L-bracket with both the
upright half and the square surface and mark the position. The bracket and
the end of the upright half must be resting squarely at the same time.
Drill three 1/4 inch holes through the upright half and the center of the
L-bracket, spacing them evenly along the length of the bracket. Repeat this
on both narrow sides of the upright half with two other brackets, making
sure that they all are square to the surface the upright half and the first
bracket are resting on. You will need to offset the holes to prevent the
bolts from interfering with each other when inserted from three sides.
Repeat this entire process with the other three upright halves. Install the
carriage bolts through the upright half first, then the L-bracket, then put
the washer on and tighten down the bolt. Continue tightening until the bolt
head is drawn into the wood as far as the wood surface surface. Repeat this
for all of the remaining upright halves and brackets.
Place an upright half down on the plywood a foot or so in from the side
edge and with the widest section L-bracket parallel to the long axis of the
plywood platform. NOTE: Make very sure that the uprights fit in-between the
two wrist holes on each side of the crossbar and do not cover them! Ideally,
the uprights should be an inch away from the outside edge of the inner
holes for arm clearance purposes. Centering the crossbar across the shorter
length of the platform will likely give you the ideal positions for the
uprights. Additionally, the side of the upright half without brackets
should face the crossbar. Mark the positions of the brackets before
drilling, as they may slip.
First protecting your floor, drill through the L-bracket and plywood, three
times for each bracket, then assemble the 1 & 1/2 inch bolts up through the
plywood first, then through the L-bracket, then put the washer on and
tighten down the bolt.
Repeat this for both of the other brackets on this upright half. Now stand
the center board assembly on edge across the longest platform axis and snug
it up against the side of the upright half without a bracket. Place another
upright half as before on the other side of the crossbar assembly, with the
widest section L-bracket pointing way from the center board, and align it
carefully to its mounted upright half twin. Mark, drill and assemble the
brackets and bolts as before. This completes one upright. Still using the
crossbar assembly as a reference, install the other two upright halves in the
same way about a foot from the other edge of the platform. Slide the
crossbar assembly out once the second upright is finished.
Drill four 3/8 inch holes through the center of each upright, matching the
heights between the two uprights as closely as is possible. Place one just
above the top of the brackets, one 2 inches below the top of the uprights,
and the other two at matching heights at two reasonable points
in-between. Avoid putting the holes through areas you would like to use the
crossbar in.
Put 3/8 inch carriage bolts through these new holes, using a washer and nut
on the lowest hole, and washers and wing nuts on the three upper ones on
each upright. Tighten the lowest bolts tightly, and experiment with the
tension on the other three pairs. These bolts pull inwards on the gap
between the wooden halves of the uprights, and may be adjusted for a 'slip
fit' with the crossbar in place. This is used to adjust it up or downwards,
and the torsion created by hand-turning the thumbscrews as far as they will
go secures both halves of the crossbar firmly.
Now remove all remaining sharp edges on the wood by rasp and sandpaper,
apply stains or finishes to your liking [see above note on drying] and
cover the L-brackets with a wrapping of heavy fabric. A thick bit of
carpeting, foam, or other cushion on the platform will improve it
immensely.
Using it:
Resting the entire device on a carpet will prevent scratching of floors and
most slipping as well. First, loosen the thumbscrews enough to adjust the
crossbar assembly to the desired height. Re-tighten the closest thumbscrew
below the crossbar assembly, then lift the upper crossbar to open the
pillory. The one to be pilloried stands on the plywood [thus adding hir own
weight for stability] bends forward and places wrists and neck on the lower
crossbar. The upper crossbar is lowered into place, all of the thumbscrews
are tightened to hold the crossbar firmly, and [if desired] the padlock is
secured in the hasp. Kneeling positions will require the crossbar assembly
to be moved lower, feed the non-hinged end through from the sides of the
uprights below the center bolts. Should you ever feel unsure of the
stability of the device, you may either add more weight by piling it onto
the platform edges or use the 'Additional strength' notes below. Since the
throat is against rather unyielding wood, special attention should be paid
at all times to avoid injury if the bottom should collapse or go into a
position causing strain on the neck. Adjusting the height of the crossbar
with the crossbar locked onto the bottoms neck is *unsafe*, IMHO.
Additional strength and construction variations:
If you believe that this design is not strong enough for your particular
application, attach a length of 2 x 4 {on its narrow edge] near each of of
the side edges of the platform, 3/4 inches away from the sides of the
uprights. Cut two large right triangles from 3/4 inch plywood, place them
in the 3/4 inch gaps and fasten the wide base of the triangle to the 2 x 4
and to one of the upright halves on each side with screws or bolts as shown
below in Side View. Make sure to keep the space between the upright halves
on each side clear to allow the crossbar assembly free movement. Some
fitting may be required to allow the triangles to work with the L-brackets.
Partial Side View
### ###
upright half ### ### upright half
### ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# *# ###
# # ###
# triangle *# ###
# # ###|* bolts
# *# ###|*
# # ###|*
# *# ###|____
######################## ###############################
# * * * * * * # #* * * * * * * * * *# 2 x 4 on edge
#########################################################
######################################################### platform
An additional solid upright with a wide and heavily padded top may be made
just tall enough to support the belly of the bottom when bent over. A strap
or a few eyebolts for security might be added to this upright. Position the
upright at the proper distance to support the belly when the bottom is bent
over, brace it on all four sides, and take special care to avoid pressure
on the throat when adjusting the height of the crossbar.
An additional crossbar assembly for the ankles can be made along the lines
of the crossbar assembly above. You will need only 4 inch wide boards for
this, other construction details and use are quite similar. In the design
above, this lower crossbar will not go all the way down to the platform,
but a bit of careful work will allow you to sink the lowest bolt heads into
the upright halves to allow this. Even if you do not do this, several
seated positions with both wrists and ankles secured are possible.
Other variations:
Each ankle, knee, thigh and elbow may be secured to the nearest upright or
an eyebolt in the platform with a few turns of rope. Total immobility is
simple to achieve in this fashion.
A standing variation good for whipping holds the wrists alone in the
crossbar while it is secured near the top of the uprights. You may wish to
drill a pair of special holes right through the crossbar to pass the
topmost bolts for this purpose. Padding the top of the crossbar where the
forehead rests is a kind touch.
A double crotch rope beginning and ending at the crossbar assembly near the
hands is an obvious adornment when standing or kneeling.
For another position variation, turn the bottom in place and stretch only
the hands back behind the body and into the close or far wrist holes. This
may be done either standing or kneeling, and is effective when you wish to
work the front of the body. Fastening the wrists so the hands are palm side
down lifts the breasts/chest nicely, bent-over positions work best with
the hands palms up.
Since this device occupies more than a bit of room, it may also serve as
other kinds of play furniture with a few additional straps and a bit of
imagination. To start you off, try securing the crossbar assembly just
below hip height, bending the bottom over it [perhaps padding it first] and
fastening hir hands to the lower parts of the uprights. Proceed as
inspiration indicates.
Enjoy your new toy. If you make a pillory from this plan, please share your
experiences through posting or wizvax mail.
I have a few other working designs for interesting furniture, if there is
sufficient interest I will post them after a time.
> Maple
>
> * ...because Lynx once commented "Does the term 'rock-hard' ever appear
> in front of anything other than 'cock'?", and my name is my belated
> reply.
I would have found 'Maypole' difficult to resist under those circumstances.
Good height, and plentiful ribbons for tying.
##################################################################
a missive from
"That grim, fierce, dominant fellow, grrr ... grr ... <grin>"
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