Refinishing a Mauser
DirtySanchez
Regular
First I need some input on to whether I should even do this or should I just leave the rifle as is. The rifle in question is my Yugoslavian model 1924 Mauser. The only thing that makes me doubt if I should do this or not is the fact that it isn't one of the 24/4 models that was refurbished after the war. It's an original 1924 which as far as I know is somewhat rare. this is a pic of the one in question.
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Part 2 of this is if I go ahead and decide to do this. I would want to refinish the stock to make the wood look nicer and possibly re blue the metal on it as well. How would I go about doing this?
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Part 2 of this is if I go ahead and decide to do this. I would want to refinish the stock to make the wood look nicer and possibly re blue the metal on it as well. How would I go about doing this?
Comments
I bet you'd be hard pressed to find someone to buy it at that price solely because it had a bayonet jabbed into it.
Bullshit, I've seen multiple mosins with gunshot and bayonet marks.
OP refinishing the stock is one thing but if you reblue the metal you are a faggot. Oh wait, I forgot you're the idiot who took a hacksaw to a mosin:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:
I delete mine when I've been drunk rambling and making an ass out of myself(when I catch it) but these don't seem too ridiculous.
Because in it I admitted to something that or may not be illegal:o
And as far I remember 18 was barrel length for Shotguns, 16 for rifles. You should be safe there too.
Regardless, the feds aren't bustsn' your nuts unless you supply a picture of an un registered automatic. Unless we're talking about com-bloc weapons; which we are not. Wingmasters, nor butchered Mosins are Illegal. As long as you play by the Fed rules.
I have seen pictures of both in questions. The mosin is butchered a little beyond legal length.
Back to topic though. Unless you have a picture of an SS officer with your rifle, it is nothing more than a number in a few million.
If you have anything that's actually worth jack shit, you have documentation. Otherwise you have one of the most manufactured rifles in history. Unless you have clean original stamps(which can be verified) it's worthless as a collector item.
Any 98k, Mosin, or Garand means nothing unless you have some insane proof or some reject with too much money and no knowledge. They were all produced in such numbers that they are worthless aside from what retard will pay for them. It pretty much goes Mosin,K98(not your swedish version), Garand. Garands are only valuable because melted most of them down. You can get them for 600USD still easily. Mausers for 180, and Mosins for 110USD.
The mauser might be a beautiful action, but it's nothing special. It's a piece of history that was mass produced in the millions.
The Yugo 24's were nothing special. Just an adopted Mauser 98, who gives a piss?
Unless you have a German 98 with intact marks, it isn't worth more than a small box of ammo.
Refinish it if you like. You don't have a prize winner there buddy.
Remember when unbubba'd 1903s sold for $250?
I do.
I remember when german 98k's were 99USD. But who gives a flying fuck? I like the the rifle, but the sights are awful, and there are millions of them. It's import b/s. There are millions of mausers in the world. The 1903 is a mauser as well. I don't get wet over that either. I love the Garand but have one coming to me.
I currently have a RIA 1911 that is more reliable than my grandfathers GI1911. I get the GI and his locker/medals when he kicks off. But the GI will sit in the safe because it's not a good shooter. Wasn't in the war, and wasn't after. Who gives a piss? That's family. If it wasn't, that MF'er would be long the fuck gone.
I'm sentimental if I have family ties to a weapon. But I wont hold on to a Mosin or Mauser because of what it is. They were produced in the millions. It's not like dirtbag even has a German 98. He has a Sweede. Good shooters agreed, but will never be worth anything.
Take it apart. Sand down with some 150 grit paper or so until it looks and feels like bare wood. You're mostly trying to remove any oils/grit/whatever is built up on the stock. Once it's clean, hit it again with 220. Apply a sanding sealer. 2 coats, sanding in between with 220 or 320 paper. Find an oil based stain you like and apply it. Don't let it sit more than 15 minutes. Wipe it down and let it dry for a few days. Hit it with a sealer to lock the finish in. Stay away from anything too glossy, as it wont look right. I usually do 2 coats. Sand with 400, and you're golden.